Search results

The mixte looks like it was cannibalized for another bike, as it doesn't show any signs of abuse, the seat isn't scuffed and the fenders aren't dinged up. The BB might be good as is, just needs lube and adjustment, making it an easy task to cannibalize the donor bike.

I used an old insert and trimmed it to fit this frame. It has a vinyl woodgrain but I'm going to rivet on some crocodile skin that will match up better to the color.

I laid them out to get a look. I think downswept looks better than inline like the fighter planes had.

My exhaust pipes showed up already. Now I need some sheet metal. It should look something like this.

I've got an idea for a frame insert.

Whoops I found some good info right here. Your bike is 1960. An in depth and believable chart was provided by Phil Fink in 2021. The 14th post. https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/hp-snyder-peerless-id.99114/

I picked up a rivet set not knowing the first thing about how to use it. I'm going to do a frame insert and want to add some rivets, so I'll study up and see what happens. I don't even know what kind of rivets to use or if I need a special hammer or anything. This will be an "Old Dogs and New...

I wish I could find a frame like that. To add to my serial number lists, does your number begin with a "B"?

I may add a basket up front for shopping, as this bike was intended for when new. This basket arrived with no bottom supports so I went through my pile of junk to find something that might work. One of the chrome rear racks is just the right size to make into a support for the basket. From...

I mocked up what I have so far. With the 47 tooth chain wheel, I'll have to revert back to the 18 tooth cog.

Going back together. I didn't trim the fork tube thats too long. I plan on a set of truss rods or something similar and left room for a bracket. The crankset looks good here. However there's a problem. The threads on the non drive side were rusted so badly that the bearing cup won't stay put...

Watching paint dry, in between coats of clear.

The first coat of copper paint is on. I want it to look like it's made of copper tubing.

The other bike stole back the cog and the seat! Now it has a 19 tooth cog and a mattress saddle that is still in shipping. The gear index was low but now is higher but still good. It'll have more top end on the street. It had gear indexes of 45 and 61, now has 52 and 70 which may work out...

The coaster hub came with an 18 tooth cog. With the 52 chain wheel (26 by skiptooth) the gear index was 80, way too high. I went online with no luck, no bigger cogs for a coaster hub here in the Philippines. So I swapped with the SA kickback hub which had a 22 tooth cog. That brought my gear...

"So if the bike was built as a deluxe, stik, would it still say "Stik Shift" on the chain guard, or would it say "Deluxe?"" I couldn't find a 67 Stingray like that, but here's a 66 Deluxe with a stik shift, just says Deluxe on the guard.

Big change up, but using the same frame. The wheels got snagged by my other build and I had planned on returning this to the original size 26" wheels. I tried the 27" wheelset from another bike and they fit but only with a 27" fork added. They are a tiny bit larger than 700c. The other build...

It looks like a springer fork but I've never seen that style. It looks like a bolt goes through allowing the fork legs to move fore and aft (in green). A spring or two with trusses between the crown protrusions and the fork ends would make it a springer( in yellow), no flanges needed.

I just got another pair of handlebars and added them and tried to install a V brake on the front. It never would get adjusted just right, always rubbed or was too slack so it went back in the box. The rear drum is excellent so I really don't need a front brake. Raining steadily again, but I'll...

Rims look good. I think a beehive springer will work if you can't find an X53 springer. Both bikes have hubshiners, that's good luck. Rollfast chain wheel on the ladies Murray.