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That's a 1953, the 53Cw is the indicator. The earlier models had a curved second top bar while yours is a straightbar. Here's a 53 I had: The chain guard is like this one:

My godson picked up his new bike from me and dropped off the Dahon I gave his aunt about 8 years ago. It looks like it has sat for about that long and is rusty and covered with dirt and dust. The michelins still look good though. So it will get a complete rebuild, paint and all. Today: From...

From this year's build off:

There's some doubt and I've seen two different serial number analysis, but the best I have seen is here: This shows the Earlier CWC along with the later AMF. After 1963 is guessing but should follow the pattern, omitting O and maybe Q.

If that's an "H" at the beginning of the serial number, it's a 58 model.

One speed automatic? Is that a coaster?

The reflectors are lined up perfectly!

Yours will be on the bottom bracket. The H is probably part of E H and 2 digits reversed for the year. If you can post a photo maybe I can make out some features. Here's what my 42 looked like:

The tires look to be in good shape as is the whole bike. The Sturmey Archer 3 with coaster hub is a good hub. I never take them apart to lube, they usually have an oil port on the hub shell. Light oil like good machine oil is what works best. I also remove the shift chain and add light oil right...

Those make good adult sized muscle bikes. Apes and a banana seat with high sissy bar and you're set! A large version of one of these:

I asked about the Mixtes earlier and they don't qualify as a step thru for the upcoming build. The top bar needs to be more than halfway down the seat tube. I was going to consider this frame but it's now a gravel bike:

Try to swap this nut to the other side. The nut holding the cone on the drive side should be narrower and maybe give you enough to line up the brake arm. That will move the wheel over to the left but there may be enough room between the stays for the tire to fit. The chain line may be ok too, if...

When I made my fake skiptooth cogs and chain wheels, they were a lower grade of steel, from China. It was easy to grind them down.

You probably have one of the first Americans. They came out in 55, but the new Schwinn models were available before the new year. This shows the front brake was standard for your bike. https://bikehistory.org/bikes/american/

Not much wear on those brake blocks, and the paint looks good. Schwinn paint from then really holds up. I've seen those brakes listed in the accessories portion of the Schwinn ads.

The large nut and washer on those hubs gives a little too much space between the arm and frame. You could try a thinner nut and or washer to narrow that space.

I'm vacationing right now, but I think Schwinn began with "A" in 1947. I'll check on that when I get home in a few days.

Same here, I thought the train light was only on Phantoms or could be bought separately. I learn something new every time I go through the catalogs.

Dark blue with ivory trim as stated in the last paragraph of the Hollywood ad.

I always thought the tooth spacing between skiptooth and standard was different. I learn new stuff all the time, I just need to write it all down now. My setup is 39/22. Really easy to ride.