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That was exactly my idea. Cleaned it up *just* enough so that it wouldn't catch on anything soft

Tore down the wheels. Again, really wish I could have saved them, but the spokes are held together with nothing but hopes and dreams. Got a sweet set of air cooled hubs to throw into the new wheel build. Going to keep the rims completely crusty, and the spokes will be given a fauxtina to closely...

I'm just realizing that I'm a month into this build and I haven't even mentioned the direction I want to take it in. I have a vision in my head that this bike belonged to the son of a speed shop owner in the very early 40's. They used the bike as both a parts runner and a promotional tool, so...

It's a hot one today. 92° and very little breeze, so I fired up the portable hurricane. Got the frame 100% stripped down. I'm amazed that only two screws on the entire bike were stuck, and they just needed a little heat to come free. The crank bearings were a little dry, but still look perfect...

Yeah, I wrecked my #1 size tip, so I had to use the #2. MASSIVE overkill

I'm going to gently file down the excess metal and reheat the frame so the scaling of the metal matches. Then I'll apply some rust accelerant and pray that I can match the rest of the patina

Well, I knew it would come to this. The frame is brazed together, which necessitates using my OXY acetylene torch. Made the flame as small as possible and went to town. This tubing is so thin I can work the weld puddle with the torch 2-3" away. It's not pretty, but the crack is finally gone

On last year's build off bike Girthy Gerty, I used Thickslicks on 26x80 and 26x65mm rims. Used a tube for a 26x2.5" tire on both. It's still holding air. The 80mm rim was for sure a fight to get the tire bead both seated correctly and evenly spaced all around

I put a lot of research into rake and trail for my build off bike. 48° of rake with 4" of trail should do quite nicely. Should still be pretty maneuverable with little tire flop and a good return to center

I use Inkscape to do what you did. Upload a photo and you can scale it any way you want. It's not hard to create a digital copy of something like a bike frame, and because it's a scalable vector program, you can make real life measurements from it. As an added bonus, you can save stuff as a .dxf...

I wanted to check for clearances before I weld the rear dropouts in. I did better than thought. The frame will have 2.5" of clearance and the pedals will be right at 1.5". I'll be about to keep the fork straight and park it on the pedals. Measured the final length and it's 128.5 inches (326cm)...

I'm a fan of the tail dragger fenders

Taking it easy today. Cleaned up the shop and threw down some oil dry, then loaded up the kayak for a trip down the river. Yes, my kayak has wheels on it.. It's to heavy to carry the 150 yards from my house to the river. I usually tow it behind my folding bike to the river, then float everything...

Yay! Like Oprah says "Sawzalls for him, sawzalls for her, sawzalls for everyone!"

I have checked the chain line. There's more than 1/2" of clearance to the rim, and I can make a little more if needed with a spacer on the freewheel. The tire is going to be stretched when installed, so it won't hang out beyond the rim

This project has become a great way to recycle all of the *almost but not quite used up* flap discs for my angle grinder

There's a ton of metal finishing that needs to be done before I can install the dropouts, so here's where I'm leaving it today. Got the rear end sorted and burned in. Tied the lower part of the frame into the bottom bracket shell

And then there were two. Apologies for the state of the shop. Kinda got distracted last night right before cleanup time

Working on the bottom part of the frame. I really like this waisting effect. It frames the rear tire perfectly. I've already made some curved tubing so it'll kick up and tie into the bottom bracket