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Amazing build as always. Crimping, I've router'd a piece of wood to the approx diameter of the tube, half depth, as a support, set the tube in, and hammered the tube flat. Take it in stages don't try to get it first shot. Lot more difficult on curved parts though.

I'd it has an upper and lower pan, it's pretty easy to recover. Add some better foam while you're at it.

I wouldn't clear coat a shiny rattle can paint unless you were trying effects. Need to be sure the base and clear are the same type of paint. Not just same brand. EX: RUSTOLEUM makes enamel and laquer rattle can, primer / topcoat / clear. If you mix the paint types up they will react...

I made my own solutions and did zinc, copper, nickel. Never got a true bright nickel finish. Having a Large variable power supply was the key to success, battery charger isn't going to give the results you want. Caswell kits are the go-to, but I wasn't paying that price.

Yes, do it. https://www.modernbike.com/iso-sizes-for-bicycle-tires-and-rims Chart shows S7 versus 26" This one's a little different 26" steel chrome rims, chrome spokes, blue nips, sturmey archer kickback coaster.

I pull the gyros off everything,run a straight cable. If you have to reuse an old cable, soak the whole thing in light oil, it'll get it moving again.

Bump up to 12g spokes. Would have to drill hub and rim, but 12g aren't going anywhere.

Here's 2 700cc 36 hole rims, the Velo is double wall, not sure about the bontrager.

Agree, pack it with sand, bend it around a pole. Put a piece of leather or heavy vinyl between the pole and the tube. I'm considering making one out of 1/2 conduit, the galvanized will polish up to a "nickel-ish" finish. Flatten the nds and shove a flat plate in, drill thru.

https://www.bmxguru.com/collections/spokes-stainless-steel/products/black-color-stainless-steel-spoke-single-80mm-320mm bmxguru.com $0.35 each stainless steel spokes from 80-320mm. $0.40 black, $0.60 other colors They also build wheels.

I do have 10 new 1/4" ball 1-1/8 headset bearings if anyone needs a set

SWING AND MISS. Thread can be deleted, no new solutions. Bearing needs to fit the taper on the fork crown and top nut well, that centers the headset. Tried every combo of bearing - fork still rocked back amd forth. Ground down the top headset cup to prevent the top nut from bottoming...

Promotion - product bike. I agree with sell as is and see if a collector hits on it. Pretty cool looking frame if you decide to build it, swap some parts.

26" full chromo dirt jumper forks arrived *** not my arm, belongs to the seller. ***** brings me back into class 1 rules with no welded stuff 😀

Got the 1/4" ball (15 ball) 1-1/8" headset bearings.

Cut the fork and did a better mock up. Got a little wobble when tightened down, ordered some of the 1/4 ball bearings. Mainly out of curiosity if this will work. Will update thread and correct any misinformation when I have a working version. Or. Disprove my own theory if it doesn't...

1 1/8" with 1/4" ball bearing with sunlite pn. Looks like the same bearing used in FSA PIG. Must have been a fairly standard bearing at one time. Are these the mysterious "Murray" bearings

Fork got here today for the real build. I'm tied up for the next 2 weeks. Bummer.

Would love to see how the bearings look.

Bearings I'm using 38mm - outside diameter 31mm - inside diameter 4.71mm 3/16" ball Looking around for same dimensions This is interesting 1 1/8 bearings with 1/4" bearings - even bigger balls - YEAH