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It wasn't actually model paint, it was the same Dupli-Color I used to do the lettering. It was the BRUSHES that were from my model-building stash. Now that I've done it once, I may just re-do the whole panel eventually with a little more attention to the process. I know there's a "correct"...

Yeah, that would definitely help. But I have 2 questions for anyone with more experience than me: 1. How long should I wait before clearing over the graphic? It’s Dupli-Color sprayed into the cap and sponged/brushed on. 2. What’s a good clear to use? Another coat of Minwax poly or something else?

So last night I hit the tank panel with 0000 steel wool, applied the stencils, and brushed a coat of poly into the stencils to seal them for paint. It felt dry this morning, so I let it sit all day while I was at work and started the sponge-in stencil process I have always used when I got home...

The polyurethane seems fine now. Just needed 24+ hours to dry, not the 4 hours they claim on the can. I think I am going to hit it with very fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool and try the stencil out. My concern is that I will have to wait a LONG time (weeks?) for automotive touch-up paint to dry...

Your aging process is fantastic. Filing this away for reference.

Love this frame design. Ross did something similar in the 1960's.

Turned out great! LOVE the big'n'little look!

Minwax Ipswich Pine stain... ...and Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane. Gotta say this is some new definition of "fast" with which I am not familiar. The can says it can be sanded after 4 hours. I put it on at 8am, it's now after 6pm and it's still tacky. Grrr.

Just because I'm playing with images... this is closer to what I originally envisioned for the wood panel. Heavily influenced by the big old wagoons of the '60s, '70s and even '80s (and technically there were a few left into the '90s; I had one). I don't know how I'd get the lighter colored...

Ohhhh, the Verrazano. Ewwwwww. Say no more. When I go back to visit family on LI, the Belt Parkway is the bane of my existence.

@BobbyStillz , I think you're right. And it looks like I might take @The Renaissance Man 's advice on using Air Conditioner, which will look like this: In that case, the low height of the font works to my advantage because it fits under that mounting bolt, and then I can center the name on the...

lighter wood stain:

getting ideas... non-drive side. ignore the left hand cranks and mirror guard lol.

Just to get an idea for spacing: Now I am second guessing myself. Maybe I should stain the wood and then just paint the name right over the stain without the little panel, kinda like this Trek Woody I saw at the penny farthing race in Frederick yesterday. Never heard of it before, I had to...

Well, between @Captain Awesome 's suggestion to use P-clamps: And @OddJob 's suggestion to "cold forge" the tunnels for the cables: I have a working set of clamps to mount the tank panel. Not gonna lie, I never would have thought to do that on my own; thanks for the inspiration. First I...

Augh, out into the woods. Yeah that'd make me anxious too. As it is, every time I hit a bump or negotiate a curve I check the mirror to see how much the bike is swaying. Regarding departure angles, I did cross a couple of driveway aprons that made me worry a little about how far the rack hangs...

Bus bike racks, wow. I was aware of their existence but never gave them much thought till I read your post. I looked them up and found this video: Are the bus racks in Staten Island similar to that one? I wouldn't hesitate to put a beater bike on one, but something I put time and effort into...

More shakedown today! Took the bike to Frederick, MD and watched a penny-farthing race. Amazing stuff. Also rode about 5 miles around downtown Frederick between and after races. But Frederick is an hour from home by car, which leads us to today's tangent: Anybody else get freaked out when you...

I'm sure you are correct about the rack playing into the seatpost clamp not staying tight enough. I should probably find the same hardware that Murray originally used to mount a rack to a seat post clamp like that, which in my (admittedly limited) experience has usually involved a nut with a...

WOW. I had no idea you could get a seat post clamp with rack mounts that hang off it like that. Very cool idea. If I can get the welded-on clamp off the frame without too much trouble, I might just look into that. Otherwise maybe I can just put a clamp on the post above the frame like you...