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That might help, but even if you could set it up close enough for a conventional brake lever´s pull to engage the brake effectively, you can bet it would be draggy as can be.

CCM Flyte.

Forget about the bars-- what chain is that?!?

I remember the Travel Agent; that was a pretty cool aftermarket kludge but it seems like, ultimately, the world figured out that getting the right brake levers is cheap, and the feel is that much better. I´m thinking that the difference in terms of the amount of cable pulled for a...

Very nice work, Paul. Love the stance. Are those the same ends you're selling on your site? And are those Red Menace forks??

Apparently, they offered 36h Blue Bands s an aftermarket item but the OEM Blues were all 28h, if you bought a bike equipped with a Blue it was typically a 20" wheel...

The cups are different, as are the cones. Basically, most cranks and BBs are 24tpi and use the 10x5/16" caged bearings. Chicago Schwinn and very early Mongoose bikes run 28tpi with BBs that take the 9x5/16" caged bearings. Take makes a nice BB set for 24tpi cranks that takes the 9-ball bearing...

I wouldn't do the rim out because there are 12g- compatible time available to buy. Save yourself the trouble of carefully drilling your time 72 times, and Dave yourself the effort of having your time crack from stress risers and Suchlike.

I have been tempted to run a Surly Single cog on a Velosteel hub with a White double-double crank set up, just to do it.... But that's a lot of expense to achieve a range similar to a regular 3 speed hub. Just rocking the Dingle might make sense though.

I´ve always been tempted to do something like this, but I haven´t gotten around to it yer. From what I have seen, and what i know about coasters, it´s tough to set it up with a regular lever and cables, b/c youĺl need to move a lot of cable/chain to engage the brake. A lot of folks go with a...

Hawt

Nope, it won´t work. Wildcat pretty much explains it all above. Every multipeed handcycle i´ve ever seen with a CB was running planetary gear systems, not a deraileur. You could run an FSA Patterson crank, but that´d cost you far more than a multipseed rear wheel would...

maybe it´s a ´68 or ´69?

I thought you might have, although RRB does have some very skilled hobbyist welders on here, too... but those welds looked pretty ¨pro¨ from that picture. It looks like you got your money´s worth. At this point, you´ve already got the fork modified for it; like I was saying in that other...

Nice. Those are some really nice hubs. RB2 are my favorite singlespeed Bendix. Just remember, the 3 splined sprockets for Bendix are a bit differently sized than the Sturmey-Archer pattern which has since become the standard. You´ll want to find real Bendix sprockets unless you´re handy with...

That makes sense...Simplex would´ve been the oem group, i bet... but if you checked out that link i posted, the frame details on the 67 px10 are basically identical to your bike above, n´est-pas?

Looks smallish; i rock a 58cm. I´m eyeballin´ that one at 56cm? Are you the Second Life bikes guy?

Thanks... those tires really tied the whole build together... thanks again! :grin:

What groupset is yours wearin´?

Here´s a l´il something-something; you be the judge. https://www.steel-vintage.com/peugeot-px-10-classic-roadbike-1967-detail