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That’s be cool. Chain drive concealed inside the frame!

The bars to be installed had been painted, not the right colour either. Took the paint stripper quite a while to get it soft, so they must have done a half decent job! I’m fairly confident these are of the correct era. The stem appears identical to the rusty ones I removed in the original...

Careful, next thing you’ll be wrapping the back tyres in pvc pipe and taking it drifting.

I’ll have to admit it’s not my design. They are irrigation fittings filed down to size. I think this is the video I used to build it. Same guy, but he has a couple of videos on presses for different tasks. It does hold the cups really well and for a few bucks much better than a hammer.

Frame still has plenty of patina, but now under a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil. Looks a lot better now. Still pretty scrappy, but only light surface rust and the original paint is a bit shiny. I’ve almost laced up the wheels, but short about 5 spokes and 10 nipples for the front...

Yes. It’s the standard ISO brake mount. I think a 140mm rotor is minimum, max 180mm. Mountain bikes typically would use a 160mm. Bigger rotors and they recommend you avoid unless it involves a through axle.

Problem solved. Found some help on bicycles.net.au forums. The internet has done some good today. It’s a press fit system. Going to need another solution for the build off bike. https://rustybikebell.wordpress.com/2013/11/21/odd-jobs-and-the-malvern-sportstar/

I usually stick my frame/forks in the car in the sun for a day or two before assembling, but give it at least 7 days before assembling as well. Not oven baked, but the additional temp can help.

I’m renovating an old bike, Speedwell GTS and want to take the good parts from a Speedwll Ladies Sport. The BB is in good condition so want to switch it out. I’ve remove the axle and non drive cup easily, it was well greased. The drive side however is being difficult. It has a notch in the...

I rusted a frame using a hydrochloric acid solution, reasonably dilute. It only took overnight for it to look quite rusted. Two coats of boiled linseed oil seemed to seal it up nicely. Can’t comment on the longevity of the linseed oil because I sold it on after about 6 months.

While I’m in awe of the quality of the top ranked bikes I’m sure the majority of builders are building for fun and just enjoying any extra kudos from others. Pretty sure most of my friends and family don’t get it, but the rat rod bikes clan are a great place to share the journeys.

Despite living in the land of its origin and in several different states, don’t think I’ve ever seen Kookaburra brand Licorice. Local favourite is Darrell lea.

An alternative might be to black out the bottom hoop and make it disappear

Agree. Proportions are all spot on. Awesome work.

Lucked out today. Measured up the 3spd hub from the blue ladies bike, measured two alloy rims from another donor with rusty hubs and spokes to determine what spokes to buy, then figured I’d raid the parts stash and found a shiny front hub and two sets of stainless spokes the correct length...

Ha ha. Was going to leave it a bit longer, but Skidwell is growing on me.

Giving the frame swimming lessons. No tubs the right shape so some builders plastic and a couple of sleepers set up an oxalic acid bath. Hope it’s strong enough, using deck cleaner stuff that was lying around topped up with water. It’s a little bit shallow, but I flipped the frame during the...

Probably more like lugged, brazed, welded and bolted! Convicts!

It is weird considering the junction at the seat tube is welded and the front is welded too (or brazed). I’ve seen seat stays bolted on on track bikes before, but it tends to be both ends.

Quiet times in the workshop this weekend so I stripped down the GTS. Fortunately whoever built it up knew about grease so it came apart fairly easily. Even the cranks and bottom bracket didn’t put up a fight. Looks like something went wrong with the seatpost on install. The bolt has squashed...