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The cranks look like a German "Glockenlager". There really isn't a way to use a regular crank puller on them. They are a pain to work with! Best German board I have found is: https://www.altesrad.net/phpBB3/ Google translate will get you close, and some people are willing to answer a question...

The acorn nuts are cool. But maybe hood pins, a chain and a big padlock?

Here's a thread with some good information: https://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=74541 and some couplers you can buy and install yourself: http://www.groupj.net/bicycle-frame-couplings.html

The chainstay mounted brakes work great as long as you are not riding in mud. The frame there is just a little bit stiffer than at the seatstays. They do get goobered up in rain snow and mud.

I love the slack geometry and long wheelbase on 1980's mountain bikes- makes for a comfortable and stable ride.

Fenders are there to keep that racing stripe of mud off your back and to keep your shoes and socks from getting soaked in the rain. I think most bike fenders are too darn short as it is. No bobbing for me! I like a good looking bike but I like a practical one even more. I think the chainguard...

My current chromrad- a 1930s German term for a fancy bike, before bling became un-German is at http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/what-have-you-been-riding-lately.106358/page-15#post-1125482 Still a work in progress. The chrome on the frame is really pretty crappy. I'm liking...

Cottered cranks were the standard 80 years or so, proof that they do work well. You do need to file the cotters to fit, make sure you have the right size/diameter cotters and use a press to install them- just tightening the nut does not draw them in as tightly as they should be. A press also...

That floor mat is pretty cool! Something about it says JC Whitney catalog to me.

A Chapelli Hipster bike free from Craigslist- It's an Australian designed, ChiCom made $300.00 "city bike". SA 3 speed, acceptable parts. I'm really starting to like this bike- zippy and comfortable. It is looking different- I flipped the bars, changed the ... hatchet for a Velo Orange saddle...

Do you mind a unicrown fork , cantilever mounts and fender eyelets? Steerer is 8" long. The one I have is chromed, stamped CR-MO on the steerer. If memory serves me correctly this was a replacement fork found on a mid 1980's lugged Trek City bike. $50.00 plus actual shipping. I am in San...

Here is a good thread on recovering a tensioned saddle: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/148675/ It is a pretty involved process, but mimics the way Brooks do the originals.

For sale, one nice Ibis titanium quill stem. This is really nicely finished- a little paint loss on the logo but the rest is smooth shiny and light. 22.2mm stem diameter, takes 25.4mm/ 1 inch bars, 90 degree bend and 90mm reach. Add some bling to your road bike. Or your cruiser. $100.00 shipped...

Save the frame and nose piece! You can make a new leather top with some serious effort, but the frame alone has some resale value or save it for repair parts.

Totally cool! Even with the shipping I think it's a bargain. The number plate on the fork looks like a Belgian license plate. Have fun with it!

Sail Bikes:

And an Adler Dreigang and a Colson Hi-Lo, both from the 1930s.

Brake Kleen will melt the plastic in the water pik- Acetone and Toluene are both 10-20% of the mix.

Your right hand is (usually) stronger than the left. The front brake on a bike does most of the stopping, so you might as well use your stronger hand on the stronger brake. At least that's how I set mine up. Lefties do the opposite.

I use paint thinner with a splash of butoxyethanol to soften things up, and then a rinse in paint thinner. Butoxyethanol is the active ingredient in a lot of commercial degreasing potions. I've been impressed with how well D-Limonene works and may switch over to that once my supply of...