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Old bikes seem to way out of Strava's target demographic, which seems to be people who buy workout gear.

If you are still looking for blue stain for the wood, I've used RIT in the ancient long ago. Test it out first, but after a little experimentation it worked for me. And it's cheap! https://www.ritdye.com/instructions/wood/

Or to make it look more Soviet, a box with prominent weld seams, rivets, and maybe one of the numerous little soviet pins or badges? I think they are called znatchki in Russian. I am sure you are more familiar with them than I am!

I think there would be a very steep learning curve. How comfortable are you riding a swing bike down a 20% grade? And doing tricks? Just my opinion- I have never ridden one.

A tubing roller works a lot better than the hydraulic type, but it is slow. I have been using a harbor freight tool and it has done everything I need: http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736.html And a huge plus is it has a small footprint.

Velo Orange has some nice sub-Brooks quality saddles- prices are not that much less, but I have heard good things about them: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/saddles.html Rideable Bicycle Replicas has some super cheap saddles that look good- I have used parts from them but...

I REALLY like the slack frame geometry on German bikes. I wish I ran into more of them. Your Goricke looks great!

Sometimes putting an external tooth lock washer between the worn out serrated parts can work. Not a perfect fix but it can keep you on the road. http://www.crouchsales.com/ext-tooth-lock-washers.aspx

Get a good bike repair book- my favorite is this one, and it's cheap: http://www.amazon.com/The-Bicycle-Manual-Maintenance-Repair/dp/0809271354 And Sheldon Brown has some excellent information on the web which will take some of the mystery out of things. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ I wish it...

I agree- springer forks look cool but make for a mushy ride. On a gas pipe steel cruiser the fat tires give you all the suspension you need.

Huffy used plastic covers on the crank and brakes of the Aerowind. Looked like Campy bits, worked like Huffy.

Check to see if there is a bike co-op nearby- they may have some, or check craigslist and put up a sign or ask at the local good bike shop, if you have one. Heck, ask here if anyone has rotted out leather saddle for cheap. And look throught the alleys and metal piles for donor bikes. I just...

One method I've beeb thinking of is to use the frame of an old Brooks type leather saddle. Strip the rotted shapeless leather off, bolt the banana seat pan to the cantle piece, and use my collection of seat gut pieces to fit the rails to the seatpost clamp. Roadie saddles are long and skinny...

I'll keep grinding away on this one- muscle bikes and BMX have always left me a little cold- I'm more of a commuter and tourer at heart.

Well, I will not make the deadline. BUT I'm still having fun with this project and should get it finished up soon, depending on weekend plans.

I like that idea! They are a little beat up, but they're going on a rat rod anyway...

Still grinding away, but not spending as much time on it as I'd like. All the parts that need to be purple are now purple, but I've had some glitches in the finishing end. For some reason after the silver base was baked on, the purple clear started to wrinkle the remnants of the factory paint...

At least the racks are the same on 24 and 26" bikes- the only difference was the wire supports.

With knock out cups it's probably some kind of Thompson bottom bracket- they were popular in Europe.

Still nibbling away on this. The crank I pulled off of a BMX bike was threaded for 1/2", and the nice East German pedals I am using were 9/16 so I drilled them out and re-tapped. The Harbor Freight tap wrench broke in the process. To keep priced ludicrously low they have to cut corners...