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That Sunlite lever is ghastly looking. Paul makes a much nicer one: http://www.paulcomp.com/duplexlever.html Adapters for one into two cables were common on motorcycles with double sided drum brakes. These also worked as a cable tension balancer. The problem solvers piece is a copy of a...

My second attempt at a chainguard made from scratch. Flat aluminum sheet plus a little magic.

Just made this one from a piece of flat aluminum. Need to figure out which bike gets it. Making some more different ones now.

Too many and not enough.

I was assuming that he would use a 1/2 inch pitch chain. I have written a number of times that an inch pitch chain/cog is not simply double a 1/2 inch pitch. The drive teeth/chain link are .625" and the trailing link is .375"

I ran some of these on commuter bikes in the 70's just for a giggle. The gear ratios are very close so not worth the trouble unless it is just for fun. And Bike_Lane, that is a nine speed.

I have done this a number of times, cutting every other tooth off of the front and rear ring and cog. This works best if the chain is new. This also works best with steel rings and cogs. The chain stretch tolerance will be doubled so the chain fit tends to be sloppy but tolerable and the wear is...

Back in the late 70's I worked in for a Raleigh dealer, our three speeds came with Brooks B-72 saddles and the high end bikes had Brooks Professional's on them. Most customers opted for more modern saddles. Eventually we tossed box loads of Brooks saddles into the dumpster. If only I had saved them.

That is a fair price for what is there. If the frame is free of cracks or repairs you should buy it. If you are going to customize it then the missing parts are a non issue.

This is a subject that has been beat to death (pun intended). Check the archives. First get the tool, they are not expensive. Second get a new LBS, they lack professionalism if they do not have this tool.

Nothing devalues parts faster than showing that quantity is available. Personally I would keep the forged D type clamps and dump the stamped sheet metal clamps.

Exploded and sectioned: Campagnolo Record front hub, modeled in Pro-Engineer CAD software.

You can polish your stainless spokes, looks real nice.

Here is an exploded view of a New Departure hub from my CAD collection:

Welds and fillet brazed joints are usually smoothed with a "Dynafile", but this tool cost $$.

One of my two Camel Back Schwinn's:

Just touching on a few details I have noticed over the years: Motorcycle forks use the same one inch steer tubes as bikes. Many of the motorcycle forks I have used had the same 26.4mm crown race diameter and the same British or Italian threads. So if you work out the front hub issues they can be...

Nova Cycles Supply sells the bottom bracket shell you need cheap: http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-fra ... -69MM.html

I use Sprocketeer 2.0 for my basic layout. I then modify the tooth profile to better suit bicycle applications but the stock output is quite usable. The rest of my design work is done with Pro-Engineer software. http://sprocketeer.software.informer.com/2.0/

The product link looks to be working but I do not list the chainrings or cranks, mostly just my hubs. The rings and cranks were mostly prototypes or patterns. Also I do not intend to sell products on forums so you can contact me offline: [email protected] Just about anything can be made but...