Jude's finds

[RustyGold]

A junk hub on the fork, spin the fork to face the frame, ratchet strap (or turnbuckle) from hub to seatpost (or through BB if you don't want to take a chance of hurting the paint), and tighten.

 

[Wildcat]

RustyGold's idea will work and those ratchet straps (tiedowns) are pretty common. The correct angle for the fork makes a big difference in the ride and handling of a bike. Just a little off forward or rearward makes the bike handle totally differently. I would make corrections little by little, to make just enough without going too far. It will spring back slightly after each pull.
The upper part of the fork legs should be in a straight line with the headtube, the steering axis.

When you straighten it while it's on the bike, make sure the cones are adjusted so there's no play in the fork. Off the bike, you can see right where the spot where the bend is and possibly straighten it that way. I use blocks of wood placed at the right spots and use my weight to make the correction. I just used that method with my kickstand. Forks might need more weight. I've also put an old wheel on the bike, turned the fork back ward and bumped it into a brick wall gently to bend a fork back.

One other consideration is the integrity of the fork. If it was bent once and straightened it won't be as strong as new, but will be strong enough. If it has been bent back a couple times then it's probably no good. A crack may develop right at the crown, where the lower bearings are housed. It's not visible when the fork is on the bike, on the inside the head tube. I always inspect that area when working on a bike. I take off the fork for lube anyway.
You best bet would be a replacement fork that has never been bent, but a 24" fork for that bike would be hard to find, and yours will look good on there being original with the stripes.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

A junk hub on the fork, spin the fork to face the frame, ratchet strap (or turnbuckle) from hub to seatpost (or through BB if you don't want to take a chance of hurting the paint), and tighten.

Thanks so much for your help here guys…. Was there a specific ratchet strap that was short and strong enough that I could buy at a local big box or tool supply?

I definitely have the skill set to do the trash hub or threaded rod and ratchet strap…. Im just not sure what strap to get.

I have a set of ratchet straps, but they don’t start to torque until they’re like 5’ long….

 

[RustyGold]

Most big box hardware stores will have 1" ratchet straps, usually about 6'-8' max length. So, with a round trip to the hub and back you are pretty much set.

 

[RustyGold]

A turnbuckle is easier to find, but a good size one would probably cost more than the ratchet strap. A come-a-long could probably be made to work...but not elegantly.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Thanks so much for your help here guys…. Was there a specific ratchet strap that was short and strong enough that I could buy at a local big box or tool supply?

I definitely have the skill set to do the trash hub or threaded rod and ratchet strap…. Im just not sure what strap to get.

I have a set of ratchet straps, but they don’t start to torque until they’re like 5’ long….

I have a 2" unit that came from harbor freight. Like $10. Way overkill but effective

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Great tips, guys!

 

[chuckemup]

What I would do back when I didn't know any better is ram the bike into a wall until straight. Just make sure you do it a little at a time.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Here’s the 1960 Schwinn double straight bar.

Not sure what to do with it

Here’s a muscle mock-up: I have some apes I can throw on....

Some dude online did one of these as a 24” bmx, which was off the charts cool.....

Maybe cooler than the muscle version.

 

[Karate Chicken Industries]

I'd go BMX, even though it wouldn't fit me.

 

[sdframe]

Pray I find a house!

My storage garage is looking like a circus!!!

So, my friend gave me an amazing deal on this load. $40. - $5 per bike. (I do have another $40 in gas and tolls)

As there’s plenty of rust here, these bikes are pretty much complete and really only need tires, tubes, elbow grease and lube!
View attachment 163363

Here’s what’s in the mix
2 women’s black Columbia 3 spd tourists
His n hers yellow columbia 3 spd sport III
Women’s Ross 3 speed for parts
Girls 20” bike for persons seat and apes
24” Schwinn Typhoon (needs parts)
26” Western Flyer

So, super great deal, need to find a space and get to work!!!

It looks like you lined them up in order of interest, from right to left. Have fun!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I finally ran across a doner bike for this special bike: $80 counting gas.

I was hoping for a better deal, but no way I could buy the alto fork, fenders and chain guard and have them delivered for that price.

So, another project in the backlog!

I actually think I’m just going to swap parts for now and not deal with paint.

It may look sort of cool with British green fork, fenders and chain guard.

 

[rickpaulos]

Good plan buying a donor bike. I had a shed full of old Raleigh 3 speeds and was able to swap parts to get the maximum bikes running.

The black Raleighs are pretty easy to clean up. Certainly the easiest color of all to get looking like new. The new paint was gloss black enamel. It polishes out with automotive polishing compound without a lot of effort. And black Rustoleum is a perfect match for touch ups. I brush it on, one pass only, let it dry a couple days and block sand out the runs. Wax when done. As has been pointed out, the wheels weren't stock, fenders bobbed,etc.

I have about a dozen old english "racer" 3 speeds and use to work in a Raleigh pro shop in the 1970s so I am very familiar with these bikes.

Of all the English 3 speeds, the Raleigh Sports in Green is the most common. The big 3 English makers: Raleigh, Hercules, Phillips, all sold them branded for any reseller that wanted their name on them like USA companies: Stelber, Huffy, AMF, Ranger. The big 3 also went through a business merger phase and bought out countless other brands and continued to sell those like Robin Hood, Dunelt, Triumph. The durability of these bikes is rather amazing. Most are quite usable after 50 years. They sold by the 10s of millions in the 1960s and early 1970s.

 

[Karate Chicken Industries]

The durability of these bikes is rather amazing. Most are quite usable after 50 years.

I have at least a half-dozen viable framesets, all still sound. They are also a lot lighter than the American electro-forged framesets. High quality steel for mid-low range bikes as well.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Good plan buying a donor bike. I had a shed full of old Raleigh 3 speeds and was able to swap parts to get the maximum bikes running.

The black Raleighs are pretty easy to clean up. Certainly the easiest color of all to get looking like new. The new paint was gloss black enamel. It polishes out with automotive polishing compound without a lot of effort. And black Rustoleum is a perfect match for touch ups. I brush it on, one pass only, let it dry a couple days and block sand out the runs. Wax when done. As has been pointed out, the wheels weren't stock, fenders bobbed,etc.

I have about a dozen old english "racer" 3 speeds and use to work in a Raleigh pro shop in the 1970s so I am very familiar with these bikes.

Of all the English 3 speeds, the Raleigh Sports in Green is the most common. The big 3 English makers: Raleigh, Hercules, Phillips, all sold them branded for any reseller that wanted their name on them like USA companies: Stelber, Huffy, AMF, Ranger. The big 3 also went through a business merger phase and bought out countless other brands and continued to sell those like Robin Hood, Dunelt, Triumph. The durability of these bikes is rather amazing. Most are quite usable after 50 years. They sold by the 10s of millions in the 1960s and early 1970s.

Thanks so much for your input here!

this is great history and education!

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

The Green ladies bike is a Westpoint, possibly made by AMF. They were the store brand for the True Value Hardware stores. Enclosed is a photo of my 1970 Westpoint badged AMF made Flying Wedge. No mistaking that frame EVER!
I do not have a photo of the headbadge right now but I can get one later today.
That photo is from yesterday. It is slightly custom but I am sure you guys do not mind that.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

It is slightly custom but I am sure you guys do not mind that

^understatement of the year. "Slightly custom" is the starting point around here

 

[JA331]

Lots of awesomeness and fun in that load!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Hey everyone,

So, I’ve been sidetracked with summer and dodging heat. At this moment, the feels like temperature is 101.(F)

I was able to score these bikes last week for parts:

All in, bikes and fuel, $70. Meh…. I’m sure there are better deals out there, but for my use, tremendous value in time (not removing rust) and parts.

As I have a lot of bikes, I don’t have a nice (or cool) his and hers set.

Last winter I was able to score a nice pair of Columbia sports III’s for $5 each!!!!

-The bikes are complete and the paint and patina is great, but the chrome needs A LOT of help or replaced…enter the Murray’s!!!!

I’m not sure when I’m going to do this project, but I could not pass up the value on these matching bikes …..

 

[Jude Ephesus]

So….. sort of hate to do this to a wonderful little bike……. BUT

Fenders are going onto a bike. (varsity party bike)

Wheels will go on the brown suburban

Seat, derailleur tubes and tires will go onto the ‘75 traveler


The rest will be AWESOME parts.