šŸ LE MIRAGE - An update.

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Got the BB apart and it cleaned up well.

I inspected my balls (not often you can say that in public) and they appear to be in good order, so too the lock race.

Q, Would you buy new balls - or repack these with some nice blue grease - or would you invest in a sealed cartridge replacement?

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The flat side race will have to wait for the right tool - I've got a big Bertha shifter that will fit - but It will be in there tight and I'm not risking rounding it.
The lock nut took some effort.

Another $20 - but at least I'll have one ... in case this sickness doesn't wear off.

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The rear wheel looked like it was easier to restore so I started with it.
The tyre was rotten and left some residue on the rim.
There were several loops of masking tape over some deteriorating cloth tape under the tube. I'll have to buy some new tape.

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But the rim cleaned up pretty good with a light sand and good polish. They won't be as good as the rims on my STR - but those are 36 years newer!

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Front wheel next.
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Got the BB apart and it cleaned up well.

I inspected my balls (not often you can say that in public) and they appear to be in good order, so too the lock race.

Q, Would you buy new balls - or repack these with some nice blue grease - or would you invest in a sealed cartridge replacement?

View attachment 230987


The flat side race will have to wait for the right tool - I've got a big Bertha shifter that will fit - but It will be in there tight and I'm not risking rounding it.
The lock nut took some effort.

Another $20 - but at least I'll have one ... in case this sickness doesn't wear off.

View attachment 230986
Impressive! Quite the choreā€¦. especially catching all those barings!
 
Everything looks good, and coming along nicely!

Unless you have the need, that drive side bearing cup probably doesn't need to be removed. Just clean from the inside out and put your new grease inside via the crank opening.
 
Everything looks good, and coming along nicely!

Unless you have the need, that drive side bearing cup probably doesn't need to be removed. Just clean from the inside out and put your new grease inside via the crank opening.

Indeed - considered that, but I'm still slightly in favour of painting it - and I bought the right tool. If it's still in there crazy-tight with that - then, yep I'll mask it.

More secrets revealed.
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Apparently this is why some parts of the interweb have issue with simplex derailleurs.
The pulleys are plastic and expensive to replace. RJ says find a Suntour and cannibalise it - but they are worth more than the Simplex. I did think about the Altus that I have in stock - then I came to my senses and ordered new genuine pulleys.

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The new chain is plenty long enough.

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And the spray.bike kit arrived. I got two different blues - and they are both too vivid to match the original paint, but I like the brighter blue and I'm not worried about 'authentic' anyway. Whitewalls baby!

The kit was nicely packaged and personalised - So I'll follow the instructions and have a crack. I need to hit it with some rust converter first though. And I need to get some better PPE.

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Ahh Internet colour shift - it's not too-bad a match on some angles because the original paint is a pearl - and really nice - but it's too damaged in prominent spots to keep.

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Budget ... what budget?

My Freewheel removal tool didn't fit - so I had to buy a new one. New caged bearings for the top bracket, new balls for the BB, rim tapes and a big front reflector in transit, plus the Pulleys.

And I have some other cool stuff on the way.
Crank bolt covers and bar end plugs - and maybe some small fenders - or maybe not, dunno.

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And the spray.bike kit arrived.
Interested in knowing how that stuff works. If you're feeling like those blues aren't scratching your itch the paint is produced by a larger parent brand with lots more options, though for that particular metallic I might personally look at hobby paint or straight up auto colors.
31wXxqc1AmL.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpgtam86049.jpg

You can also mix colors yourself.
 
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Interested in knowing how that stuff works. If you're feeling like those blues aren't scratching your itch the paint is produced by a larger parent brand with lots more options, though for that particular metallic I might personally look at hobby paint or straight up auto colors.
View attachment 231826View attachment 231827

You can also mix colors yourself.


Thanks for that - but I'm keen to see how the spray.bike system works too. And the colour will work fine - it's a nicer colour in fact - it was more a lament of painting over the nice original pearl. I've done rattle can paint jobs previously and the results were not good. If only there was an 'undo' button.
If this works as claimed it will be a game changer personally.
 
Postbox has started getting busy.
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Rim tape and protectors, balls for the BB and a couple of tools arrive. As well as a handlebar extender that I thought I'd investigate - but it's too big visually.

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Even with the right tool it was hard to get enough purchase on the flat cone.

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But I saw this trick on you tube - and I had the hardware to make a holder-in-placer-er.

2 nuts and a mudguard washer on a bit of threaded rod and it's much easier to use the mallet.

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Now that cup is clean and polished too.
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I've just-about finished the front wheel - not quite - but most of the damage has sanded out OK - it's not perfect - but should work fine with the Flybikes BMX pads I have in stock. The spokes are in really good condition.

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I cleaned and re-packed the front wheel bearing. It was in pretty good shape. But It spins really nicely now.
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The back wheel is proving more problematic - I still don't have the correct freewheel too - bad research - bought the wrong one - but I have the correct Park Tool on the way for the Atom 77. Which I am going to try and save - pending dismantling.

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Frame is stripped and preping to paint - cleaning and a bit of smoothing

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