I'm loving this bike build 
Jason
Jason
21st Century Hawthorne Flyer
- Thread starter SILVERKINGPC
- Start date
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Looks good to me dude.
Quick check/synthetic oilage. Cool no-tools-required hub disassembly. I just may end up liking this H3111 hub compared to the later 515 dreigang that followed it...
Changed out from 40x15 to 30x18 sprockets.
Changed out from 40x15 to 30x18 sprockets.
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Love it. Is it comfortable with the high saddle and low handlebars?
I'm 6'-3", so it's important to get these oddball bikes set up for me to actually ride, not just to look at. The seat-post is close to maxed for my height on this 19" frame. A normal sized-person would run the seat at bar height. For some, this aero position is a no-go. Personally, I can adapt to most anything I ride.
Frame has 70/71 angles: The cockpit is set up wide and low: BB height is 11.25": Wheelbase is 42.5": Stays 19.5-20".
As mentioned earlier, I have been testing it out a bit, and it rides nervous but smooth and quiet. The long-low position with wide bars, 71degree head tube, and the 110mm /5-degree stem steers quick for sure. I may experiment with some shorter stems. I am loviin the 30t front chain-ring for around here!! Need to finish this beast, but have to wait for my replacement hub to show up.
Frame has 70/71 angles: The cockpit is set up wide and low: BB height is 11.25": Wheelbase is 42.5": Stays 19.5-20".
As mentioned earlier, I have been testing it out a bit, and it rides nervous but smooth and quiet. The long-low position with wide bars, 71degree head tube, and the 110mm /5-degree stem steers quick for sure. I may experiment with some shorter stems. I am loviin the 30t front chain-ring for around here!! Need to finish this beast, but have to wait for my replacement hub to show up.
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This bike is so sweet, great build. [emoji1360][emoji1363]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have been messing around with different crank-sets, and after 3 different setups, went back to the Kookas. The silver SR's looked the best and had a perfect chain-line, but they were too light for me. Rings are now 32x19 (climb-ey). Also trying some pinned platforms out.
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Spokes are here, hub/rim is ready, and by the week-end, I can post final pics. of this bike. I cannot believe how hard this has been to get this disc setup "right". Three hubs and a lot of swearing later I have the finishing line in sight. I have another ugly disc wheel on the bike right now, and find the braking power is what I expected.
X-mas eve present to myself.
Runs clean, no hops, no hiccups. 32h 3x. Sun rims seem to always do me well. After building around 50 or so wheels over 30 years, it has become second nature. For me, they represent the heart of any build.
I enjoy building and fixing wheels more than any other part of putting together a bike.
Runs clean, no hops, no hiccups. 32h 3x. Sun rims seem to always do me well. After building around 50 or so wheels over 30 years, it has become second nature. For me, they represent the heart of any build.I enjoy building and fixing wheels more than any other part of putting together a bike.
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The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
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Awesome bike!
Thank you gentlemen! (TRM/RS) Merry Christmas to to all who participate and contribute here on Steve's (The King Rat) most excellent web site.
My final thoughts and pics regarding the 21st Century Hawthorne Flyer will be forthcoming in the next few days so stay tuned. This bicycle (and me) are really excited to be getting back on the road again...skpc
My final thoughts and pics regarding the 21st Century Hawthorne Flyer will be forthcoming in the next few days so stay tuned. This bicycle (and me) are really excited to be getting back on the road again...skpc
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Make that three!
Merry Christmas to you too! I agree that RRB is among the best on the web. It's no accident that everyone here is in harmony with one another. It starts at the top. Thanks @Rat Rod
This Flyer has now come forward 90 years into the21st century. This 1927 28” wheeled Hawthorne frame and fork (rigid) I got 10-15 years ago and built it up for a buddy. It fell into disrepair so got it back. I stripped it and it sat until I had an iea The utilitarian but proven straight-bar motorbike frame with a Shelby Shock-ease Fork. Straight lines on both things. I held onto the original 28” fork and truss rods.
High-end parts for performance reasons. Have a thing for nice parts that work. The bike is adjustable to fit any sized rider and is capable on any surface or in any weather with a change of pedals and tires. It would be a good gravel racer. The bike is more capable and safer to boot with the Shelby springer and needed disc brake. I love riding on the old frames, and so far this on has me smitten. 28lbs (edit-29.5lbs on the LBS scale w/xtr pedals). Every old frame and build rides differently. I've put some miles on the bike this week set up for both dirt and pavement, and it has a damp ride quality and is quick.
So there you go Ratters, hopefully you enjoyed the build thread and my new(old) Rat. The 21st Century Hawthorne Flyer is finished. And lastly, my final hope is for the Flyer to make it to the 22nd century. I think its’ chances are good.
Final Pics/stats below. All fellow Ratter comments are welcomed...
Frame- 1927 OG paint Hawthorne Flyer. 28"
Fork- Prewar Shelby Shock-ease.(women's long steerer) 26"
Wheels-SKPC custom built. Set up tubeless-compatible.
Dixi 9mm qr front disc hub
Sachs Dreigang H3111 3-spd IG/coaster brake. NOS
Sun rims(EQ30/25) eyeletted/welded.
Wheelsmith 14/15 spokes & alloy nips.
Sun(Ringle) front 90's qr skewer. (parts stash)
Tires- 26x2.35 Nobby Nic folding bead/Vredestein Black Panther 26x2.4 folding.
Saddle- New WTB Volt 155mm
Post- Generic steel.(parts stash)
Bars- 720mm wide full carbon riser.
Stem- Oval concepts 100mm 5degree rise threadless alu. 1-1/8"
Headset- Original to frame.
Grips- Sachs lock-on foam.
Shifter- Sachs Dreigang indexing 3-spd. NOS
Brake- Hope Mono mini MTB hydraulic.(parts stash)
BB- World Class Titanium cartridge w/ti bolts.(parts stash)
Crankset-Kooka MTB square taper.(parts stash)
Pedals- Rock Brothers 4-bearing pinned platforms.
Total cost- $800
28.5-30 lbs. (edit-w/o pedals-tubed)
High-end parts for performance reasons. Have a thing for nice parts that work. The bike is adjustable to fit any sized rider and is capable on any surface or in any weather with a change of pedals and tires. It would be a good gravel racer. The bike is more capable and safer to boot with the Shelby springer and needed disc brake. I love riding on the old frames, and so far this on has me smitten. 28lbs (edit-29.5lbs on the LBS scale w/xtr pedals). Every old frame and build rides differently. I've put some miles on the bike this week set up for both dirt and pavement, and it has a damp ride quality and is quick.
So there you go Ratters, hopefully you enjoyed the build thread and my new(old) Rat. The 21st Century Hawthorne Flyer is finished. And lastly, my final hope is for the Flyer to make it to the 22nd century. I think its’ chances are good.
Final Pics/stats below. All fellow Ratter comments are welcomed...
Frame- 1927 OG paint Hawthorne Flyer. 28"
Fork- Prewar Shelby Shock-ease.(women's long steerer) 26"
Wheels-SKPC custom built. Set up tubeless-compatible.
Dixi 9mm qr front disc hub
Sachs Dreigang H3111 3-spd IG/coaster brake. NOS
Sun rims(EQ30/25) eyeletted/welded.
Wheelsmith 14/15 spokes & alloy nips.
Sun(Ringle) front 90's qr skewer. (parts stash)
Tires- 26x2.35 Nobby Nic folding bead/Vredestein Black Panther 26x2.4 folding.
Saddle- New WTB Volt 155mm
Post- Generic steel.(parts stash)
Bars- 720mm wide full carbon riser.
Stem- Oval concepts 100mm 5degree rise threadless alu. 1-1/8"
Headset- Original to frame.
Grips- Sachs lock-on foam.
Shifter- Sachs Dreigang indexing 3-spd. NOS
Brake- Hope Mono mini MTB hydraulic.(parts stash)
BB- World Class Titanium cartridge w/ti bolts.(parts stash)
Crankset-Kooka MTB square taper.(parts stash)
Pedals- Rock Brothers 4-bearing pinned platforms.
Total cost- $800
28.5-30 lbs. (edit-w/o pedals-tubed)
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Beautiful bike! Looks like a "forever bike", to me.
I put a mechanical disc on the front of Interrobang only because I didn't want to rely only on a coaster and was running the cable down the head tube and that left a disc as the easiest cable routing (though I have done a V-brake with that set up and it works surprisingly well), but I'm a big fan of discs now—so easy to set up, stops very well with great controllability, rims can be painted, they're better in the wet than rim brakes, and wheel truing isn't as critical, either.
My 1912 Iver Johnson is around 28 lbs. with a coaster rear, clincher wheels, and heavier modern spokes (originally fixed gear), so it was even lighter originally.
As shown below, my cromoly USAAF bike weighs 38 lbs.—that's with the laptop in the pannier, batteries for the 12V lighting, etc. (without the drink, though). Rides smooth and comfortable and is fairly quick and has no problem with moderate off roading. A well built steel frame is wonderful and I don't get all the expense and durability sacrifices (and style, I'd argue) of modern frames just to save a couple pounds that's hardly noticeable when actually riding. If I could only keep one bike, this would be it (disc brakes are about the only thing I'd change to).
I put a mechanical disc on the front of Interrobang only because I didn't want to rely only on a coaster and was running the cable down the head tube and that left a disc as the easiest cable routing (though I have done a V-brake with that set up and it works surprisingly well), but I'm a big fan of discs now—so easy to set up, stops very well with great controllability, rims can be painted, they're better in the wet than rim brakes, and wheel truing isn't as critical, either.
My 1912 Iver Johnson is around 28 lbs. with a coaster rear, clincher wheels, and heavier modern spokes (originally fixed gear), so it was even lighter originally.
As shown below, my cromoly USAAF bike weighs 38 lbs.—that's with the laptop in the pannier, batteries for the 12V lighting, etc. (without the drink, though). Rides smooth and comfortable and is fairly quick and has no problem with moderate off roading. A well built steel frame is wonderful and I don't get all the expense and durability sacrifices (and style, I'd argue) of modern frames just to save a couple pounds that's hardly noticeable when actually riding. If I could only keep one bike, this would be it (disc brakes are about the only thing I'd change to).
Yes Duchess, I am with you on this one. Old steel hand-made frames, if not abused, can last more than a lifetime. Steel has so many great properties when it comes to bike frames and forks. They really did have it figured out a long time ago! When taken care of and respected while being ridden, they will last for years and years. I like your military bike above! Ride anywhere, on any surface, and any distance. A "forever" bike...I like that introspection..
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