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This turned up today, 100cc bicycle motor kit, with it being so close to Xmas what better idea than box it up under the tree for the young bloke, this will be a great project to.
1- father son build time
2- Get his behind off the Playstation, if even for an hr a day LoL.
3- satisfy my thirst to always get one of these.
The son is 12.7 and has no idea I've got this, maybe a bit young for this but if I really want to give him the best chance in life then the younger I get him into this caper the better 😎
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Its with a heavy heart that I have to inform all that due to work, family and recreational commitments I completely forgot to enter my 2 bikes in the build off, I finished em both but life got in the way and by the time I came back to the computer I was 2 days late Grrrrr........ But on the bright side we got to install the motor onto one of the bike's.
I wanted it on my diamondback but there wasnt enough room, serious mods were needed and the bike was actually rolled in the shed and placed near the welding bench!
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I couldnt bring myself to do it so I went through the bike frames hanging in the shed, The REID mtb , Python mtb, and a few others there were all ally frames and , as OJ said, alloy frames = odd sizes, either the bottom tube was too fat or the seat tube was too thick etc etc, it really did take 2 days to decide the right path.
In the end we found the motor a home on the build off bike in the off road section.."F6 Typhoon" I did finish it but forgot to do the completed post part...."DOH"
so here it is, there was a lot of things I had to do to get it right and even now after 30km's of break in riding (25kmp) theres a couple small things to rectify! would you believe these things require a 500km break in period with oil @65ml / Litre of 91 UL. the first 5 km I was using 98 octane UL and it really didnt like it so I switched down to 91 and she runs real nice!
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I made up my own exhaust bracket with a rubber wrap to hold in place and support it, works really well!
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Vibration is an issue in these things so I placed a small piece of rubber under both engine mounts, I wanted to put some under the clamp side too but as you can see there was only enough room to cushion the motor side of the mounts, It has made a huge difference I must say!.... im also looking at some tricky spacers to secure this bolt n nut, Ive already replaced this bolt with the longer version I made up in the shed (shown) but its still not long enough, Ive bought some real long thread and ill make a couple new engine mount bolts , longer, which are just cut down 150mm 8mm stainless bolts.
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This is Chris, father outlaw.. he's on holidays from Oman, he's a great bloke and he really likes the bike, he's also 6.5 so very tall, im only 5.11 so this why the bike looks small on chrisco! ive also swapped out that silver rimmed front wheel for a dual alloy black thats come off the diamond back, those cheap silver rims had the worst squeal in the breaks, the better rim had helped a lot, maybe the pads are old, can we get a softer compound in the v brake pads, im unsure but the squealy brake syndrome is happening here, they work really well but squeal like a little piggy! (sorry for the deliverance quote) The build itself took about a week as work love n life are getting in the way more than ever
So Here we have it everyone, the "Fully Evolved" Dunlop F6 Typhoon
 
Also I forgot to add its a great idea to wear long pants when you first start to ride these motorised pushie's, the radiator fins on the motor tend to leave a "LASTING IMPRESSION" if ya get too close! LOL
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There was minimal space to fit anything, I had to dent part of the seat stay to give clearance for the chain , I was also wary on the rear cog fitment on the engine side, its just 2 thick rubber flaps bolted together with the sprocket attached to the outside, looks weak and pathetic but im really impressed at how its holding up!, truing up this sprocket was mind smashing at times but I got it down to about 1mm out, they allow 1.5mm so it runs great!
Ive also removed the gears, it's become apparent that even though the pedals are there they really only get used to start this machine and maybe help it out if going up a hill, to pedal them any sort of distance without the engine running is comparable to physical suicide, so now im running the middle front sprocket and running a straight chain to the 2nd bottom rear cog just to keep things straight, ive left the derailer in to soak up bumps off road and this actually is what keeps the chain on the rear cog in place is the derailer, if you remove it and try to run a chain round both cogs without it, eventually it will slip down to the next cog because the rear teeth are designed to slip on and off the chain easier,
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