46 TOOTH SPROCKET VS. 36 TOOTH SPROCKET?

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Rat Rod

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Just curious if anyone has swapped their standard Schwinn 46 tooth sprocket for a 36 tooth sprocket. I know they also make a 40 tooth sprocket as well.

Trying to make my Schwinn Typhoon and Flying Star easier to pedal.

Just curious how much easier it is to pedal with a 40 or 36 tooth sprocket.

Maybe 36 makes it too easy. :shock:
 
I switch out sprockets all the time. Just did a buddies we went from a 54 tooth to a 36 tooth lucky seven. just had to shorten the chain and he was in business. You can also switch the rear sprocket. go bigger on the rear to make the bike pedal easier. I ride a 44 tooth on front and a 20 on the rear. Its easy to pedal but i still have a little top end and don't have to turn as many rpm's.
 
I like to run a 44-46T on the front and a 22T on the back for cruisers, easy to peddle uphill sitting down. Top speed cranks out pretty quickly but it's a cruiser after all, I'll use a different bike if I'm in a hurry.
 
socal_jack said:
I like to run a 44-46T on the front and a 22T on the back for cruisers, easy to peddle uphill sitting down. Top speed cranks out pretty quickly but it's a cruiser after all, I'll use a different bike if I'm in a hurry.

Yeah, this is my thought exactly. I'm definitely not in a hurry on this 67 Typhoon...ha ha! Get going too fast on these old bikes and I start to question my ability to stop or stay upright for that matter. :mrgreen:

I've got a guy from the Schwinn board sending me a 20 tooth rear sprocket for my Bendix hub. Someone else mentioned changing to a 40 tooth front sprocket so I was curious just how much of a difference there would be.

Thanks guys!

Steve
 
I think the rule of thumb is : two on the front
equal one on the rear.

Probably would not apply to you Steve, so just
for info purposes....Chain wrap on Single Speeders
can be an issue on severe usage bikes, off road or
idiots like me who ride them up 10 degree hills in
VT...but aside from higher wear on smaller parts,
there is a high risk of the chain flying off of small
back sprockets as the chain is only grabbing on to
2 or 3 teeth whereas on bigger sprockets its grabbing
onto a few more. Could cause sever pain if the chain
is a little too loose !!
:shock:
 
I think as long as you stay in that 2:1 ratio it'll be very comfortable, the only issue besides those Ratboy brought up is probably shortening up the chain which will be quite noticeable going down that much in front. I changed my Nirve cruiser from 46T/22T to 44T/22T just for the look of the sprocket and that required sliding teh rear axle back ~1/2 inch to take up the slack, luckily I had plenty of room on the rear dropout.
 
If I run a 52t/19t setup how will it ride? Want to use a Shwinn MAG chainring bit where I live is hilly.
 
Turtlesixfour said:
If I run a 52t/19t setup how will it ride? Want to use a Shwinn MAG chainring bit where I live is hilly.

52/19 is pushing the upper limit of the 1 speed compromise. It is my ideal for flat areas, but I predict you will NOT like it going up noticable hills.
 
All this gear swapping and you still have a one speed. That's why they made kickbacks. A 46T on the front with an 18t kickback and you have it covered. Better living through precision machining! :p Gary
 
Ran into another problem with 52/19 gearing. Chain too short! Guess I could combine two new chains. What do y'all do?
 
Turtlesixfour said:
Ran into another problem with 52/19 gearing. Chain too short! Guess I could combine two new chains. What do y'all do?

Splice in additional links. You need a "chain break" tool.
 
I'm about 9" short. Gonna splice in another chain. Hope my el cheapo chain tool holds up a bit longer!
 
Turtlesixfour said:
If I run a 52t/19t setup how will it ride? Want to use a Shwinn MAG chainring but where I live is hilly.

What size wheels are we talking about? If the 52/19 turns out to be a bit "tall", look for a larger rear cog. Of course you will need to lengthen the chain again. :wink:
 
Re:

Rat Rod said:
socal_jack said:
I like to run a 44-46T on the front and a 22T on the back for cruisers, easy to peddle uphill sitting down. Top speed cranks out pretty quickly but it's a cruiser after all, I'll use a different bike if I'm in a hurry.

Yeah, this is my thought exactly. I'm definitely not in a hurry on this 67 Typhoon...ha ha! Get going too fast on these old bikes and I start to question my ability to stop or stay upright for that matter. :mrgreen:

I've got a guy from the Schwinn board sending me a 20 tooth rear sprocket for my Bendix hub. Someone else mentioned changing to a 40 tooth front sprocket so I was curious just how much of a difference there would be.

Thanks guys!

Steve

FWIW, with a 20t rear cog, I would try out your 46t chainwheel first before changing. This was pretty much the 10 year old girl formula back in the day. :shock: I can't imagine dropping below 40/20.
 
40 teeth seems to be the magic number for me on the old Schwinns. Not to easy, not too hard...just right! 40 seems great when adding a 6 speed rear wheel too.
 
dougfisk said:
Turtlesixfour said:
If I run a 52t/19t setup how will it ride? Want to use a Shwinn MAG chainring but where I live is hilly.

What size wheels are we talking about? If the 52/19 turns out to be a bit "tall", look for a larger rear cog. Of course you will need to lengthen the chain again. :wink:
26" wheels. They are dumpster rescued that have "coaster brake" on the brake arm. I will probably burn it up with this gear ratio won't I! Got a RB2 on the back burner if it fails. To broke to relace the wheel right now.
 
2012-09-27_12-03-30_967.jpg
any tips on correctly lengthening a chain?
 
Turtlesixfour said:
...any tips on correctly lengthening a chain?

1. They sell "1/2 links" for cases when a full link one way is too long and the other way is too short. I don't have any measuring shortcuts. I bolt the wheel in the middle of the dropout (or wherever you want it to be positioned), and it's trial and error from there. It might take 3 tries if you are a perfectionist and resort to the precision of a 1/2 link.

2. Don't push the rivets all the way out! Push them only to where the end of the rivet is flush with the surface of the link.

3. After pushing the rivet in, check to see if the link is "stiff". If so, use your chain tool to reposition the rivet a little to loosen.
 
Let me know if you wanna start running a Schwinn 64T. :p

IMG_8474.jpg
 

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