A MOUNTAIN RAT BMX

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That is looking really fun. I fully support what you are doing here
Much appreciated! I hope it becomes a fun ride. With so much to do to make it rideable, a shake down is ruled out and will have to give it the first ride when it’s finished. I’m 5’8 and this bike feels like a monster to me with its 29” wheels.
 
I am always forced to learn something when I enter these build off’s. This one is no different. I currently have a freewheel removal tool, a crank puller tool and some cone wrenches on their way from Amazon. The rear wheel is super sloppy, the crank needs removed for lube and paint, and the pedals need an upgrade. This is the first time I’ve needed to buy tools to tinker in a bike. This build looks to be more about improving my bike servicing skills than an outlet for creativity. I did get a seat post delivered and the bike stripped down, minus the crank. The tools should come today and I should be able to get the crank removed and the slop in the wheel removed over the next week.
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Hint: when using that crank puller, make sure you grease the threads on the tool, then thread in by hand till snug, then use adjustable wrench to snug down tight before you turn in the outside nut which actually removes the crank.
Otherwise, you will have stripped threads on your crank arm for sure. Your tool is steel, the crank is aluminum, very soft.
 
Thank you for the tip! I will do just that. I’m a machinist and spend a lot of time on occasions chasing threads. I hate doing it because it’s so easy to cross thread. Especially small threaded holes like 2-56 or 4-40. Feel is everything. I’ll take a toothbrush and clean the threads well before installing the tool. I see an upgrade in the future if I keep the bike, but I don’t want mistakes to be the reason for the upgrade. 🤜🏻
 
The bike is stripped down and ready to be prepped for paint. Some rust issues to deal with. The crank spindle looks to be bent on one side. Not a great amount, but enough to bother me. I’m going to mark the high side before I take it off, then I will take it apart for lubricant and see if I can get it to seat better. If not I may try to bend it. Not sure if I want to try and bend it, so it may go as is and I will look for a new crank assembly. The sprocket has some wobble too, and may need to get smacked around a bit. Also got the last tool I needed before I can work on the wheels.
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I know it's stupid and wasteful, but look at the little covers to protect the threads! They went the extra mile, a sign of the quality of the product.
It is a bit wasteful, but when companies add noticeable touches like this it adds to the perceived value IMO. Thoughtful packaging impresses me. They even sent replacement studs, spacers and a wrench!
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If you're not going to reuse that BB you probably don't want to spend $$ on the correct tools. I've had success with adjustable pliers and a big crescent wrench in the past, but I have the correct tools now for stuff I want to reuse. It seems like that frame should take a standard modern bottom bracket, should just need to know the shell width. OJ will have better info on this stuff I think.
 
Tbe lock rings, nut to remove are on the non-drive side (left side as you sit in ridung position.

They are threaded opposite, so turn to the right,clockwise, to loosen. Should be able to use a large adjustable (Cresent) wrench.
 
SETBACKS
As I tear in to this Wally World mountain bike, I find a lot of parts need an upgrade. The BB should be swapped out since one side wobbles. The sprocket has a wobble in it and the crank arms are very heavy. The rear wheel cassette has bent teeth. The de-railer has some rusty parts and is cheap. My custom mixed paint, that was to match my Jeep TJ Rubicon, was the wrong color. They did refund my money which was nice, but now I have ordered from another company, and the paint only comes in aerosol. $3 per Oz. Now as I wait, I am working on getting the wheels in better condition. They are relatively straight and will need small adjustments. I will be working on the slop in the rear wheel bearings and grease all I can. This bike was originally assembled bone dry. Looks like I will be getting a new crank set, BB, cassette and possibly a new de-railer. Since this is my first mountain bike build, I have no spare parts left to give to this bike. Everything will be off the shelf from here on out. Money buys happiness! 😂
 
While I was cleaning up the rear hub, in preparation of dealing with the loose wheel bearing, I decided to investigate the dropouts on the bike. They are bent. I think someone went pretty hard one time on this bike and just put it away after damaging it. Looks to have some damage with every bit of the bike. It’s raining and the hummingbirds have arrived, which is nice.
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or just extend the bars longer. to get more room.
6061 Aluminum extensions, custom sizing available, will come sized @ .740 ID for standard cromo BMX bars unless you specify otherwise. Two styles available:


REMOVABLE design available for lengths UP TO 1.25" per side. Can be transplanted to your new bike if you desire. 1/2" 3/4" 1" shown:
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Slow-Rider - Do you make these handlebar extensions or have a link to a provider?
 
What to do. What to do. More damage found. I set the rear wheel in the bike to start the truing process. I got the wheel bearing greased and tightened properly, then I noticed the “lobbing” in the hub. Also, the hub is way off center in relation to the rim. I could loosen and re-lace the wheel but I’m afraid it wouldn’t be worth the effort on these particular rims. The spoke nipples are a bit rusty and everything looks to have taken a hit. I started to straighten the dropouts in hopes to save this project. Not sure if it’s worth it.
If I continue with this project, it will need:
29” wheel set
7 speed cassette
Crankset & BB
Possibly new de-railer and parts
Do I declare this a DNF or should I “pay to play”?
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