A MOUNTAIN RAT BMX

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Shrunken_Head_Pedaler said:
What to do. What to do. More damage found. I set the rear wheel in the bike to start the truing process. I got the wheel bearing greased and tightened properly, then I noticed the “lobbing” in the hub. Also, the hub is way off center in relation to the rim. I could loosen and re-lace the wheel but I’m afraid it wouldn’t be worth the effort on these particular rims. The spoke nipples are a bit rusty and everything looks to have taken a hit. I started to straighten the dropouts in hopes to save this project. Not sure if it’s worth it.
If I continue with this project, it will need:
29” wheel set
7 speed cassette
Crankset & BB
Possibly new de-railer and parts
Do I declare this a DNF or should I “pay to play”?View attachment 231987
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With all the parts it needs it sounds like another parts bike might be in order. If you can find another cheap 29er it might be cheaper than buying all the parts separately. Would some of the parts from the Schwinn parts bike work? Maybe use the 26" wheels with plus sized tires to help fill up the space?
 
Shrunken_Head_Pedaler said:
What to do. What to do. More damage found. I set the rear wheel in the bike to start the truing process. I got the wheel bearing greased and tightened properly, then I noticed the “lobbing” in the hub. Also, the hub is way off center in relation to the rim. I could loosen and re-lace the wheel but I’m afraid it wouldn’t be worth the effort on these particular rims. The spoke nipples are a bit rusty and everything looks to have taken a hit. I started to straighten the dropouts in hopes to save this project. Not sure if it’s worth it.
If I continue with this project, it will need:
29” wheel set
7 speed cassette
Crankset & BB
Possibly new de-railer and parts
Do I declare this a DNF or should I “pay to play”?View attachment 231987
View attachment 231988View attachment 231989View attachment 231990View attachment 231991
Click to expand...
29” wheel set I have a pair. just pay shipping there yours.
 

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Slow-Rider said:
The handlebars will be a little crowded feeling with the brake levers and shift mechanisms

??? couldn't you say run one off these? Bicycle Shifter Brake Lever Combo SET, Mountain Bike
[img[https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/RZkAAOSwTDhiU67X/s-l1600.jpg[/img]

s-l1600.jpg

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or grip shifters and brake levers.

or just extend the bars longer. to get more room.
6061 Aluminum extensions, custom sizing available, will come sized @ .740 ID for standard cromo BMX bars unless you specify otherwise. Two styles available:


REMOVABLE design available for lengths UP TO 1.25" per side. Can be transplanted to your new bike if you desire. 1/2" 3/4" 1" shown:
img_20161224_1811545868950150.jpg
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So I understand you sell handlebar extensions!?
Care to publicly discuss prices, or should I PM you?
 
Slow-Rider said:
29” wheel set I have a pair. just pay shipping there yours.
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That's a thoughtful gift! If you go with these wheels, @Shrunken_Head_Pedaler , they look like they might be a 'freewheel' (thread on) gear cluster and not a cassette (slip on over a cassette hub). Make sure you know before you buy yours.

If you end up with a cassette hub style rear wheel, I have a like new 8 speed (7-8-9- speed cassettes all fit the same sized hub body) cassette that I would send for the cost of shipping. I may also have a handlebar, stem, seat post, saddle, grips, crankset, that you might be interested in. Send me a Conversation and we can discuss.
 
As an engineer, the way I look at it is - this is what the challenge is, rather than what I thought it was going to be. I have worked on so many projects where you end up doing things you never imagined, because that is part of what development is - fixing things that no one thought needed doing, because no one had ever done that before.

:)
 
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Thank you @Pondo @Slow-Rider @twojs.bike @OddJob @GeePig for all your ideas, suggestions and offerings. Greatly appreciated. After explaining the issues to my wife, that I have with this bike, she helped me come to the conclusion to just build it with the parts you want. I decided on a new set of wheels and put the order in. Thank you @Slow-Rider for offering me up a set. Very kind! I may be interested in the gear cassette @OddJob i just need to decide on the gearing I want. 👍🏼. I’m using the original frame and fork from the bike, along with its shifter and brake assemblies. The BMX Mongoose handle bars will be used with a BMX stem I have in hand. I have a seat and post for the bike. Lots of new parts will be going in to this bike. This bike will be built to match my Jeep Rubicon. I got pretty bummed out about this bike but I’m happy my wife (and some of you!) have encouraged me to move ahead. This bike may need to be renamed RUBICON. I have parts and a vision, and have passed the point of no return.
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@Shrunken_Head_Pedaler , glad you are pressing on with this!

One thing I would do for sure is take the frame in to a trusted LBS and get the rear drop outs straightened by someone who knows how to use the 'derailleur hanger and drop out alignment tool'. Otherwise, no matter what else you do, the bike won't shift properly, and the wheel won't sit in correctly.
 
I’m into this! A couple of thoughts in no particular order…

You have a picture of a pair of disc brakes. I don’t think your frame has mounts for rear disc brakes.

As odd job mentioned, fighting with a low end derailleur in a bent hanger is a tough battle. If you already have the parts there is no harm in trying. Although looks like your new wheel takes a cassette. Single speed is certainly the safest bet, but I do support creative engineering to get this fixed.

How bad is the BB?

What can you pull from the donor bike? BB, cranks, derailleur?

I have some used parts I am happy to donate. I just don’t know if it’s worth paying for shipping for used parts. Let’s see what you need.

Keep sending pictures of any challenges you run into.
 
Thanks for the tips @OddJob. I’m taking the frame to work tomorrow to set it on a precision granite table top, with 123 blocks to check how bad it is. Then I will take some machining washers, bolt then in each drop out, and see which way they are aiming using a rod. I’m going to try and tweak it myself. It’s really not too bad. I used the old rim to realign them as close as I could. They are not far off. I’ll get it close and have a shop look at it. Thank you for the parts offering @Captain Awesome. Much appreciated! I think I am going to go mostly new parts for what I don’t have. If this frame ends up being a dud, I will begin looking for a legit frame to put my parts on. I purchased this brake set because of the price and I have purchased an adapter for the brake caliper @twojs.bike. The wheel set I purchased can also use a rim caliper brake. Yes, the new wheel will need a cassette. Not sure if the gearing I want just yet. The BB is useable but has a small wobble on one side. Might as well get all new goods. When the wheels come in, I may do a mock up with the old derailleur system to see what is functioning and what does not. It’s a big mess I’m trying to sort out. Thanks for checking and sharing thoughts!👍🏼
 
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I took the frame to work today to see how far off the rear dropouts are. I got one side of the BB out but having difficulties getting the non drive side out. Bearings were bone dry so I’m glad to disassemble it. @OddJob got any tips to get this out without the proper tool? Kind of stuck on this. Any help from fellow Ratters is welcome. Thanks!✌🏻
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Not sure if there's a lock ring on the outside that needs to be knocked off first. Either one of those hook wrenches for that, or screwdriver in the notch tapped with a hammer. Then an adjustable wrench on the little bit that sticks out of the face of the BB. They're on the left side, so probably reverse threaded, clockwise to loosen
 
MattiThundrrr said:
Not sure if there's a lock ring on the outside that needs to be knocked off first. Either one of those hook wrenches for that, or screwdriver in the notch tapped with a hammer. Then an adjustable wrench on the little bit that sticks out of the face of the BB. They're on the left side, so probably reverse threaded, clockwise to loosen
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Kind of weird situation. Or I’m just confused. The drive side came off by turning CLOCKWISE!! Did they weld the BB housing on backwards at the factory? When @OddJob mentioned a few posts back, how to unbolt the non drive side in a clockwise direction and it didn’t budge, I was really thrown off. 🤔
 
Shrunken_Head_Pedaler said:
Kind of weird situation. Or I’m just confused. The drive side came off by turning CLOCKWISE!! Did they weld the BB housing on backwards at the factory? When @OddJob mentioned a few posts back, how to unbolt the non drive side in a clockwise direction and it didn’t budge, I was really thrown off. 🤔
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Yeah, that's really weird.
 
It keeps getting funnier! Every single time I see it!
Pulled the BB out and found a bearing inserted backwards. This was the side that had wobble. Not surprised. Since it is likely that the factory welded the bb housing on backwards, I should just service what I have the best I can. You can see the wear that the bearing housing created by inserting it backwards. It was barely touching bearings.
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