bare steel question.....

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ok I got the paint off and am ready to wet sand, but what do I put on it when I'm done? armour all? protect all? car wax? this is the first time I ever didn't want it to rust, but I don't wanna clear it either.. :roll:

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Re: I got her clothes off ,now what???

Scrumb..... ain't it great when you get 'em to that point? :D

If it were mine, and I wanted it left "au naturale", I'd pickle it to give it a nice metal / satin finish and then use a thin satin urethane top coat. All it takes is some phosphoric acid from the paint store, and water. I pickle all of my frames before I paint them. It goes a long way toward preserving the frame for many years.
 
Re: I got her clothes off ,now what???

TornadoDave2 said:
Scrumb..... ain't it great when you get 'em to that point? :D

If it were mine, and I wanted it left "au naturale", I'd pickle it to give it a nice metal / satin finish and then use a thin satin urethane top coat. All it takes is some phosphoric acid from the paint store, and water. I pickle all of my frames before I paint them. It goes a long way toward preserving the frame for many years.


oooo never tried that.. does it change the color?
 
I have an old 20's-30's hawthorne motorbike I'd like to keep like that. It was fine until I worked on it one day and left sweaty handprints on it. A few days later it had flash rust handprints on it. I don't mind clearing that one though. Just waiting on the humidity to drop so the clear and hardener will cure properly.
 
It will make it a satin / grey color.... but certainly still a metalic color.

Another suggestion would be to BLUE it like one would blue a gun. You can get the chemicals at MidwayUSA. That would look VERY cool.... especially with a few chrome touches.
 
I have never done anything to mine other than the occasional coating of Mothers mag wheel polish. I dont let it see any moisture though. I am considering clearing it with the new can of Tremclad clear gloss that I bought though.
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You need Gibbs brand lubricant. All the hot rod guys I know running bare metal rides use it exclusively. It really is WAY better than WD40 et. al. I would not put WD40 on anything that I may eventually want to apply paint to. Just my 2C.
 
if your looking for ratty bare, go with the wd-40. if you want to show off the bare frame, polish it real good,clear coat it,keep it out of excessive moisture and wax it once in a while. :wink:
 
ooo thats new to me!! and looks good!! have you tried it??

$35 a pound tho.. :shock: Idk if I need it that bad.....
 
Lucky Strike said:
You need Gibbs brand lubricant. All the hot rod guys I know running bare metal rides use it exclusively. It really is WAY better than WD40 et. al. I would not put WD40 on anything that I may eventually want to apply paint to. Just my 2C.

I think I am gonna try this stuff, it gets great reviews! now... where do u get it?? :?
 
scrumblero said:
Lucky Strike said:
You need Gibbs brand lubricant. All the hot rod guys I know running bare metal rides use it exclusively. It really is WAY better than WD40 et. al. I would not put WD40 on anything that I may eventually want to apply paint to. Just my 2C.

I think I am gonna try this stuff, it gets great reviews! now... where do u get it?? :?


To to http://www.jalopyjournal.com Get on their forum "the H.A.M.B." and just do a search. There used to be a member on there that sold the stuff. Also, I just did a google search and it seems there are places you can just order some.

It is THE stuff. I've run into a guy in a bare metal 48 Chevy at a number of local car shows. He uses Gibbs and that car looks as good this year as it has over the past 5. Not a speck of rust on it. Your hands don't leave prints on it. It doesn't rub off on your hands. And, if he wants to eventually paint it he can.
 
I'll ask... why no clear coat? On my build off bike, everything I left raw metal I clear coated and the only difference before and after is a little bit of shine, but I can do away with that with steel wool or a duller clear. You are in California so just leave it as is and if it ever starts to rust use some steel wool, or just clean it real good up front and use car wax on it. Around here if I clean to raw steel and let it sit in my shop for 2 weeks you can see light rust forming, just the humidity in the air.
 
yoothgeye said:
I'll ask... why no clear coat? On my build off bike, everything I left raw metal I clear coated and the only difference before and after is a little bit of shine, but I can do away with that with steel wool or a duller clear. You are in California so just leave it as is and if it ever starts to rust use some steel wool, or just clean it real good up front and use car wax on it. Around here if I clean to raw steel and let it sit in my shop for 2 weeks you can see light rust forming, just the humidity in the air.

In the long run all paint gets little hairline cracks and chips so small you cannot see them etc. Moisture gets into those, even though they are basically undetectable to your naked eye. The underlying steel will discolor and oxidize slightly, ruining the cool bare metal look you wanted. On color painted bikes, because you cannot see through the paint, you never know this is happening. Plus the primer prevents much of this. Also the clear will yellow over time.

Trust me, I have a friend who just put clear coat over his bare steel motorcycle tank and it now looks bad, not cool.
 
Lucky Strike said:
You need Gibbs brand lubricant. All the hot rod guys I know running bare metal rides use it exclusively. It really is WAY better than WD40 et. al. I would not put WD40 on anything that I may eventually want to apply paint to. Just my 2C.
I'm definitely interested in using Gibbs. Are there any other testimonials or comments anyone could give to help me know more about this product before I buy it. I'm running a bare seat pan too, so if I use Gibbs will I be sliding off of the seat or staining my clothes?
 
You woke up my brain. They used to brown guns, before they were blued. I'm sure there are recipies on line. Students of sculpture will recall seeing all sorts of patina recipies. Then there's copper sulfate- copper plates steel chemically, then you could go green with diluted bleach spray. All these chemical processes require CAUTION and protective measures, but lots of possibility.
I really like applying cross-disapline ideas to projects. Outside one box, but firmly in another. After all, Rat Rods are sculpture one can ride.
 
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