"Brass Monkey" LuftWulf El Cheepo bike

[GTX]

I needed a quick build for a cheap bike to display with my higher end ones at a show soon.99% of people at car shows have no idea what it costs to build a custom,so I always have a lo-ender to sell. This one was a new Huffy "Nel Lusso",which I like that model because it comes with a Springer seat and fat rims that will easily take Kenda Flame 26x3 rubber if desired.I left the stock 26x2.35 whitewalls on this time.Ape Hangers are Nirve Super Apes.LuftWulf "Arrowhead" 4" rear axle extensions,and Nirve Rivet grips on the bars.Lowrider Chrome Old Skool rear kickstand,Sunlite Springer and KMC chain from my LBS "Chain Reaction".The paint is Hot Rod Flat Black.Ready for some pinstriping!!

 

[Fireproof]

Cool bike. You do nice work!
I think a bunch of us here would like to know more about yer dropout extentions!

 

[wolfy]

Nice! whats the total part cost?

 

[GTX]

Cost was about $200 for everything...got the bike from a Pawn shop,pretty much unridden.
Rear extensions are just plate steel from Tractor Supply.I just get the same thickness the orig. dropouts are.Some are 1/8...some 3/16.I don't like how short the wheelbase is stock,and I motorize some bikes,so they are more stable at speed.The setback also clears the way for running the big Flame,or Fat Frank tires.They will fit on the front springer fine too.I have already done the same model bike with 26x3 Kenda Flames front/rear.
Cut some 3" wide strips of cardboard...the width of the plate,and about a foot long.Take the rear wheel off and lay the bike on it's side...after removing crank,seat and handle bars so it will lay flat.Position the rear wheel where you want it.You can build in a drop by moving the axle upward some.Measure rear axle to orig. axle slot.Hole punch 3/8 in cardboard for axle holes.Attach to bike and trace outline of stock dropouts and all holes.I use the 2 fender mount 6mm threaded holes for extra strength.Some dropouts will not have the hole in front of the axle slot for the 4th bolt.I use 8mm buttonhead stainless bolts,locknuts and washers.Fender washers on inside to cover the area better.
If you want to save yourself some time,fit the chain before you finalize the dropout extension...you will need two because of the extra length.I do not have slots for adjustment on mine.It's a stronger assembly if no movement is allowed,and VERY important for sproket alignment on the motorized version.
This is one I sold in Feb. You can see the dropouts on it.

 

[Fireproof]

Thanks for sharing! That's a cool way to extend the bike's wheel base! Great fer someone not wanting to weld on a rare frame. 8)

 

[wolfy]

Cost was about $200 for everything...got the bike from a Pawn shop,pretty much unridden.
Rear extensions are just plate steel from Tractor Supply.I just get the same thickness the orig. dropouts are.Some are 1/8...some 3/16.I don't like how short the wheelbase is stock,and I motorize some bikes,so they are more stable at speed.The setback also clears the way for running the big Flame,or Fat Frank tires.They will fit on the front springer fine too.I have already done the same model bike with 26x3 Kenda Flames front/rear.
Cut some 3" wide strips of cardboard...the width of the plate,and about a foot long.Take the rear wheel off and lay the bike on it's side...after removing crank,seat and handle bars so it will lay flat.Position the rear wheel where you want it.You can build in a drop by moving the axle upward some.Measure rear axle to orig. axle slot.Hole punch 3/8 in cardboard for axle holes.Attach to bike and trace outline of stock dropouts and all holes.I use the 2 fender mount 6mm threaded holes for extra strength.Some dropouts will not have the hole in front of the axle slot for the 4th bolt.I use 8mm buttonhead stainless bolts,locknuts and washers.Fender washers on inside to cover the area better.
If you want to save yourself some time,fit the chain before you finalize the dropout extension...you will need two because of the extra length.I do not have slots for adjustment on mine.It's a stronger assembly if no movement is allowed,and VERY important for sproket alignment on the motorized version.
This is one I sold in Feb. You can see the dropouts on it.

Love the extensions but i need to learn to ride before i put um on anything. did you see snydurs "brake pad extention".

 

[GTX]

So far,all the ones I have done extensions on are Coasters,so I have not had to deal with V-caliper mounting.
I have done a rear disc brake one where i added the caliper ear to the design on the left one.
I have welded the pieces on before,but it's harder to go back,or change the plates out for a new design.They way I bolt them on,the dropouts will tear outta the frame before the plates come loose. 8)

 

[scrumblero]

Sunlite Springer and KMC chain from my LBS "Chain Reaction"

:lol: you local....

 

[GTX]

Here is one that went to Miami...Huffy "Nel Lusso",Springer,Extensions,Mesinger springer saddle,26x3 Kenda Flame tires.Wald Ape Hangers and grips.

 

[wolfy]

Like the aged paint with the huffy! If your looking for a good cheap bike to ratrod look up the schwinn drifter it comes with a springer in under 200 bucks.

 

[GTX]

I did a Drifter last year for a VW show "Giveaway Bike"..it's in Birmingham now.I installed Woodies fenders on it and removed stickers,and put a RatRod.com sticker on!
This are pics before I had finished it...

 

[wolfy]

I did a Drifter last year for a VW show "Giveaway Bike"..it's in Birmingham now.I installed Woodies fenders on it and removed stickers,and put a RatRod.com sticker on!
This are pics before I had finished it...

Oh c**p thats gorgous where did you find those fenders? I want a drifter.

 

[wolfy]

New desktop pics! email link to fenders [email protected]

 

[GTX]

http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/ This is the man...If you have the $$$,the curved ones are .........As you can see in my pics,I had just put them on,and not trimmed the stainless wire supports yet.A good wire cutter,or cutoof wheel will do it,then slip the rubber caps back on.

Here's a Surly from the site with the curved ones..

 

[wolfy]

....! put those on my 3 wheeler...

 

[TypTohe]

Cost was about $200 for everything...got the bike from a Pawn shop,pretty much unridden.
Rear extensions are just plate steel from Tractor Supply.I just get the same thickness the orig. dropouts are.Some are 1/8...some 3/16.I don't like how short the wheelbase is stock,and I motorize some bikes,so they are more stable at speed.The setback also clears the way for running the big Flame,or Fat Frank tires.They will fit on the front springer fine too.I have already done the same model bike with 26x3 Kenda Flames front/rear.
Cut some 3" wide strips of cardboard...the width of the plate,and about a foot long.Take the rear wheel off and lay the bike on it's side...after removing crank,seat and handle bars so it will lay flat.Position the rear wheel where you want it.You can build in a drop by moving the axle upward some.Measure rear axle to orig. axle slot.Hole punch 3/8 in cardboard for axle holes.Attach to bike and trace outline of stock dropouts and all holes.I use the 2 fender mount 6mm threaded holes for extra strength.Some dropouts will not have the hole in front of the axle slot for the 4th bolt.I use 8mm buttonhead stainless bolts,locknuts and washers.Fender washers on inside to cover the area better.
If you want to save yourself some time,fit the chain before you finalize the dropout extension...you will need two because of the extra length.I do not have slots for adjustment on mine.It's a stronger assembly if no movement is allowed,and VERY important for sproket alignment on the motorized version.
This is one I sold in Feb. You can see the dropouts on it.

This is what ive been looking for!!!!!

 

[TypTohe]

What did you use for seat supports? On mine i got stuck after chopping the seat post clamp (looks similar to your red one, just no seat and using a 20").