Buying price idea

[Brian macumber]

A guy had a schwinn stingray at the flea market last weekend looked complete and all original just really crusty. I believe that it is a krate small front wheel springer front original slick on rear single speed. I didn't look it over for serial number cause I didn't have the money on me but going back this weekend. What would be a good price if 60's good price for 70's or good price if newer?

 

[Scribble]

I sold a 65 Deluxe Ray with barely any OG paint left for $700, Rays are worth there weight in gold to the right people.

 

[Chad T]

A guy had a schwinn stingray at the flea market last weekend looked complete and all original just really crusty. I believe that it is a krate small front wheel springer front original slick on rear single speed. I didn't look it over for serial number cause I didn't have the money on me but going back this weekend. What would be a good price if 60's good price for 70's or good price if newer?

Lots of remakes of the single speed Krates...be careful if you're not familiar with Sting Rays.

Price depends a lot on condition/originality.

 

[Brian macumber]

Not really familiar with any bikes pretty much a newbie. Any tips to look for to tell if re-pop? Color or dropouts or where serial number is or is looking up the serial number the only way?

 

[RustyGold]

Not really a muscle bike, sting ray, guy...but, I have read some pretty good web pages describing the difference (that I can't find now) and can try to relate what I think I remember . Hopefully the real MB/Sting Ray guys can shred or verify the following...

The quickest way to tell visually is the joints. There should be no weld beads visible, nice smooth radius transitions everywhere. That will weed out most of the reissues. Also, the bottom bracket. These were made out of sheets of stock and pressed into shape...so, on an original there will be a seam going across the bottom of the hanger...also, the chainstay to bottom bracket transition is not smooth on the originals.

The exception being the '98/'99 reissues, which I believe have the brazed look at the junctions. I believe they also duplicate the rough transition at the chainstay. But, I believe they don't have the seam on the bottom of the bottom bracket.

...and that is what I think I remember

 

[Brian macumber]

Not really a muscle bike, sting ray, guy...but, I have read some pretty good web pages describing the difference (that I can't find now) and can try to relate what I think I remember . Hopefully the real MB/Sting Ray guys can shred or verify the following...

The quickest way to tell visually is the joints. There should be no weld beads visible, nice smooth radius transitions everywhere. That will weed out most of the reissues. Also, the bottom bracket. These were made out of sheets of stock and pressed into shape...so, on an original there will be a seam going across the bottom of the hanger...also, the chainstay to bottom bracket transition is not smooth on the originals.

The exception being the '98/'99 reissues, which I believe have the brazed look at the junctions. I believe they also duplicate the rough transition at the chainstay. But, I believe they don't have the seam on the bottom of the bottom bracket.

...and that is what I think I remember

Thanks

 

[buses 'n bikes]

OP, you ever figure out what it was? Pics would help!

 

[Brian macumber]

OP, you ever figure out what it was? Pics would help!

Yeah kinda figured out it was a repop 2000ish when I saw a Pacific bike sticker on the bb