Chain Adjustment Screws?

[blackdiamond]

I have a 47 dayton w/out the adjustment screws in the rear dropouts
Do i really need these?
Is there any other screws i could use or do i need NOS ones?

 

[Tailwinds]

Well you don't REALLY need them, plenty of guys, including myself w/ bikes missing them, just make sure the rear axles are nice and tight.

As for an alternative, it's crossed my mind too, I think most of them are threaded 1/4-24, which could be a problem. Go to Lowes/HD, mountains of 1/4-20 screws, but 1/4-24..... ??? I don't know. Anybody headed there today want to check for some 2-1/2" or 3" 1/4-24 bolts?

 

[Critter1]

Yea that old thread pitch is non existent. I rethreaded mine to 6mm and used pan head bolts which I cut the head off an lock tighted cap nuts to. Worked great. It's detailed in my "Stacy's Savage" thread.

 

[Tailwinds]

Yea that old thread pitch is non existent. I rethreaded mine to 6mm and used pan head bolts which I cut the head off an lock tighted cap nuts to. Worked great. It's detailed in my "Stacy's Savage" thread.

Dude I like the way you think. 8)

 

[Critter1]

Yea that old thread pitch is non existent. I rethreaded mine to 6mm and used pan head bolts which I cut the head off an lock tighted cap nuts to. Worked great. It's detailed in my "Stacy's Savage" thread.

Dude I like the way you think. 8)

Ha! Thanks

 

[Road Master]

I have a 47 dayton w/out the adjustment screws in the rear dropouts
Do i really need these?
Is there any other screws i could use or do i need NOS ones?

Hi! There are actually 4 different sizes of chain adjuster screws that I have come across so far. I only keep Cleveland Welding frames and they take the 1/4"x20tpi. No, you don't need these but I found after using them they do make the fine adjustment of your rear wheel more ACCURATE. However they can be a pain to use threading them in and out - in rear facing dropouts it's easier to break the master link in the chain if there's a little slack which means you have to loosen the screws. You could use serrated washers like a lot of Schwinns have - they tend to hold the axle in place when you are tightening the nuts instead of sliding in the direction of your tightening. In the mean time you can track down a pair of used srews - they do not need to be NOS. If they are rusty when you get them soak them in white vinegar and periodically wire brush the loose rust off them until you are down to bare metal. They are a lot easier to use if you can finger turn them. You could post a thread in the "Wanted" section looking for the correct screws to fit your 1947 Dayton. Don't know if any of this helps, this is just stuff I discovered working with old rusty bikes. Good luck and have fun! Robert

 

[C.S.]

You only need one, on the right/chain side, IF you use a coaster brake or fixed cog. In all other cases you don't need any.
Adjust the wheel, by eyesight, tapemeasure, whatever, then tighten the 'adjuster' so the axle won't slide forward.
It may not be 'the right way' but it does the job.

 

[harquahalas]

I don't know if they're the right size, but I think Memory Lane has new sets for $5.