Chain advice?

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I am building a vintage bike with modern components, i bought a Shimano nx01 oval link chain for the bling factor but its too short, so i bought 2 more as they were reduced to a 3rd of their price, can i join 2 chains together as i only need around 8 inches of the other chain to extend it, is there anything i can do or is it a no no?
Its this chain i want to extend.
 

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They did but is it not unsafe having 2 weak points?
If they are actually weaker, it wont make the entire length of chain any weaker than just having one.

Not personally familiar with that chain, but most master links are actually almost or just as strong as a normal link, the added side plate ensures that.
 
I have never had my chains broken at the master link. Though once i had a side locking clip on not-so-good quality master link slide off, but it did not make it actually tear apart.
For the loads i put on my bikes the strength of them is enough. Otherwise you can always use BMX kind of half-link chains, but they are not cheap.
 
Seen you can buy Shimano specific pins so will use that one end with the master link at the other, its not for a cruiser bike its for one of my vintage Moulton's i am rebuilding with modern parts, a restomod if you will!
 
For many of my single speeds I use what the local single speed mountain bike racers use, an 8 speed double step riveted chain. I got tired of blowing side plates off my chains on steep hills. This happened to me all the time with ordinary cruiser chains. No problems since I went this route. The Park Tool with the sliding gate to accommodate a variety of chains sizes is no good for any of them. Their earlier tool with the fixed gate is good and will result in far less chain problems when shortening, lengthening or eliminating the master link on chains. I use my sliding gate one to remove skip tooth pins but you have to do a lot of jury rigging to get it to work for that. The 8 speed chain is the same as a 5 speed but I found an 8 speed chain with the double step rivet. The 5 through 8 speed chain won't fit all single speeds as it is thinner so it is best to try an old 5 - 8 speed chain first. If it fits, I'll use the double step rived ones. This single speed bike has the double step riveted chain as I kept busting chains gravel grinding hills with it. Tires also can get easily flat, even with sealant in the tubes unless there is good pressure.
54845_d83138bc7597c8b661f77bb88fd5ca42.JPG
 
I've always preferred riveting my chain instead of using master links. Shimano chains always came with break-away pins that made the job super easy (they are specific to the chain width, so do your homework).


That said, if the other components of the drivetrain are undamaged, and the chain-line is good, master links should be fine. Bicycle chains are pretty good these days... they mostly don't just break unless something else has gone wrong first...usually a failed shift, or a bent tooth somewhere, etc.
 
I broke a few chains (and sprockets) back in my BMX racing days but they never broke at the master link. I've never had a problem with them. I have a bike with 3 master links in the chain. Since it's a cruiser and not an off-road bike, I know it'll be strong enough and never break.
 
On my bmx that I ride hard I wont run a master link, I've broken 7 or 8 so I just use my chain tool to insert a regular link in that place. Disclaimer is my bmx often gets the sprocket hit on things. The master links on my cruisers have been fine
On-Point, though I like to rail on my cruisers just as much as any other bike.

The only master link I was ever comfortable with on a bike intended for all-around dealing was on the Wippermann 1G8, which is what I switched to after snapping a Sram PC1 on an MTB and almost breaking my neck in the process.

This is a pretty good primer on BMX chains. I've run the 1G8 and KMC Z-1 Wide, both comfortably and with no issues. I still have both and they are still serviceable: https://www.tresna.co.uk/blog/top-4-bmx-chains.htm

Around 2007, a young lady working at King's Bike Shop in Seal Beach, CA suggested that someone my size run Izumi Track chains, after I had explained to her that the regular KMC Z1s were not cutting it on my fixed gear conversion. The 1/2 x 1/8 Standard I bought from her that day in 2007 is about to be retired, as it's still in service after running over 5,000 miles while I was in SoCal and probably another 2-3,000 more since I moved back to CO. It's outlasted two bikes, two cogs and four chainrings. For a $20 chain, it's tough to beat.

http://izumichain.co.jp/bicycle_e.html
I think they had a little difficulty translating to English, "truck" probably means "track".
 
I've always preferred riveting my chain instead of using master links. Shimano chains always came with break-away pins that made the job super easy (they are specific to the chain width, so do your homework).


That said, if the other components of the drivetrain are undamaged, and the chain-line is good, master links should be fine. Bicycle chains are pretty good these days... they mostly don't just break unless something else has gone wrong first...usually a failed shift, or a bent tooth somewhere, etc.
I never use master links on my single speed single track bikes unless it’s a trail repair. I think my gearing was too high for the big hill and standing and pumping and pulling caused the side plates to blow off. For classic cruisers I use low buck chains with a master link. I use what the local big time single speed racers use if it fits. My last bike had to use a traditional single speed chain. I have a vintage track bike that I put a motorized bike chain on. I’m not sure about this yet, summer riding will figure that out. This chain is heavy.
 
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