Chain Rub Issues

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Hey guys coming to you for some more advice. I put a set of Hoggy-G's 24x3.45 on the 57mm rims. I have no frame clearence problemS and the fenders even fit!! My only problem is the chain is rubbing, WHAT TO DO?? I was thinking I would have to remove the crank arm and put some washers behind it but is there any other way?? It is only a fraction of an inch, when the tires not torqued down there is no problem but once I tighten it, it starts to rub..

Thanks Guys
 
Shim the chain ring out, it's the easiest way.
 
I reverse the chainring if it's concave at all. I did that on my 53 CWC with the 24 x 3's. I also put an extra washer in behind the chainring to give an extra 1/16th clearance. Also, the sprocket on the rear hub may be reversed if that would give any space. And the wheel can be adjusted slightly away from the chain, as long as it doesn't rub the opposite chainstay.

e5p93l.jpg
 
@GTV are you talking about shimming the front chainring or the rear? I also tried flipping the rear but it only made it tighter. I don't see a way to shim the rear though
 
Front. Wildcat has some good ideas there also.
 
I just remembered one more thing. The nut on the rear hub that holds the cone adjustment is about a half inch thick on many wheels. If you could swap out that nut with a thinner one, and still give the sprocket clearance with the stays, you'll get a little more room.
 
I just had the same issues again, on the Dyno build I'm working on. I flipped the chainring so it would dish outward, but didn't add an extra washer by the bearing race. I should have, because the chain barely touches the tire, a 24 x 3 Nirve FA. I don't have any extra room between the stays, so I can't adjust the wheel away from the chain. I've have to tear it down and add a washer.

wbuux3.jpg
 
On my Western Flyer, I actually shimmed the bearing cup on the chain side to great clearance for and engine. I Used a fitting for 2" steel conduit to make the shim.
 

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