Chrome Paint

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I've used the "chrome" spray paint, and it's not chrome. It's a very bright silver.
 
Yes, i understand it is not chrome nor is it really metal. I guess may question was more about durability and finish. I was thinking about using it on some of the accents on a project bike to make them look chromed. Has anyone used something like this before?
 
sorry, I didn't mean to insult your intelligence, I should have worded it "it doesn't look like chrome..."

so having said that, I can't see why it would look bad being used to accent like you want. It goes on very nice, smooth. It's very bright. Like a whitish-silver.
 
Here is some stuff I have used on Rc cars it is called Spaz Stix.

The spoon on the bottom is the Spaz. I did not take these pictures.

e3are8eg.jpg


Here are some other ones.

y2y2usaq.jpg



Now I have not used these on a bike but the have been in Rc cars that have crashed a 40mph and have survived. I would also but the Spaz clear coat.

http://www.spazstix.com/

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
 
I like the ideaof the "chrome" paint. But now that you mention I have been toying with the idea of the stainless paint. we have a Rustoleum version at work... hmm... to many options. Lol
 
try a sign shop, they have a chrome vinyl. It works GREAT, as long as the part is FLAT. It doesnt go around compound curves. Picture a chrome pinstripe....It goes the length of the car fine,it doesnt go UP or down well. No stretch on it like vinyl. I used to buy 12"wide pieces. Made alot of rocker kits. Holds up well.
 
alsacorp.com
they have the best chrome finish systems and products Ive used.... i succeeded in chroming out my headlamps on my old escalade clipped truck.. it was effective enough that everyone was sure they were covers... till i turned them on.. was kind of sexy, like driving by candle light..
and yes i ended up figuring out a way to do it and not turn them into 2 way mirrors...
the mira chrome is great stuff, it can be a little finicky, but worth the effort..
I personally use the ghost chrome alot more, its crazy the amount of detail you can faux into it, very easy to do grained machined and turned finishes with it...
also, they make urethane clear and sfot touch, IN SPRAY CANS, COMPONENT CANS, no joke, there is a vale you smack on the bottom to break in the activator.. its KILLER

got finish questions, holler.

#I still got a few R&D sample pieces of leather i did with them... gonna do my grips in green iridescent crock leather that turns white with heat... i did a moto seat in it for my ex, she hated it, i thought it was the bees knees.
 
The front springer on Grumpy, my RRBBO7 build is some cheap chrome paint from Lowes. I thought it looked pretty good. I mean you won't mistake it for chrome, but it does the trick. I also shot the trim on the chain guard and on the fender guards with the same chrome spray.

hhhiggins_5.jpg


hhhiggins20.jpg
 
terry, grumpy is what hooked me here, honestly, i was not expecting that much for caliber, my bad... there are alot of extremely talented and original individuals.. that bike had me flipping out showing the site to my buddies..
good on you.
*edit, that has the look of an alloy to me, i would have never guessed it was chrome paint, regardless it looks intentional and effortless. but i did think it was intended to look like aluminum or fine silver..
 
I've used chrome paint to occasionally touch up any welding I've done on chrome bars. To use it on chrome, you have to paint it on in light, almost misting layers. It runs very, very easily, because it's such a smooth surface. It works pretty decent, overall.
 
otroo said:
Now I have not used these on a bike but the have been in Rc cars that have crashed a 40mph and have survived. I would also but the Spaz clear coat.

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Difference being most modern RC car bodies are lexan and painted from the backside so paint is protected, and most paint used for this is flexible so you dont see much damage to paint in a crash. Not that it is a problem on a bike or something painted with exposed paint, but I'd definetly use the clear on it because a lot of the silver paints are soft, most you can see finger prints in it after touching it because the oils on your hands, not on it, in it. More thinking out loud than anything.
 
JGood said:
Has anyone used or had any luck or thoughts on using chrome paint?
Click to expand...
Yup, mostly bum luck,but I am finally making progress.Maybe spare someone from making the same mistakes. I started with a plastic Spaceliner headlight bezel with most of the original vacuum plated chrome worn off. Sanded,then primed with Rustoleum Zinc Primer, made sense to me at the time- WRONG! The grey bled through the Krylon " Chrome Aluminum #1404" Removed that,sprayed again without the primer,liked the color,but this old paint was spattering large droplets.Removed that and sprayed Dupli-Color Chrome Spray Enamel CS101 . Lots of trouble with coverage,runs,etc . Finally got a good shiny aluminum finish. Reassembling the headlight required a lot of handling which turned the finish to dull grey.Wiped it with thinner, no good. Tried to shine it with Turtle Wax, don't do that! Right now it is polished with Mothers Plastic Polish,Looks like glossy grey aluminum. Next try is better. Ratty,badly rusted Spaceliner chain guard (looks like a fishin lure). Oxalic acid bath,followed by a coating of Zud overnight.Outside is chrome,lookin good.Inside is bare,pitted,rust free metal.Wash it down with laquer thinner,no prime, spray with a new find from the Michaels arts and crafts chain store- Design Master, Super Silver 732. Wait for it to tack,about 10 min,spay coat with Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Clear HWP103.Looking good.Added another coat of Super Silver,looking better,very shiny.Might clear coat again tomorrow.
 
Onewheelsqueel said:
otroo said:
Now I have not used these on a bike but the have been in Rc cars that have crashed a 40mph and have survived. I would also but the Spaz clear coat.

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Difference being most modern RC car bodies are lexan and painted from the backside so paint is protected, and most paint used for this is flexible so you dont see much damage to paint in a crash. Not that it is a problem on a bike or something painted with exposed paint, but I'd definetly use the clear on it because a lot of the silver paints are soft, most you can see finger prints in it after touching it because the oils on your hands, not on it, in it. More thinking out loud than anything.
Click to expand...


Yeah I was just saying it has held up to hard hits. I have also painted the outside of my scale bodies but with those I clear coat no matter what color I have used.

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
 
I have used chrome spray paint quite a bit. The main problem is that the nozzle tends to clog quickly, as this paint is very thick. Also, the thickness requires extra thinner, hence the easy running. I just clearcoat it a few times after it dries. Then wait a long time to handle it. That way you don't dull the finish. While it isn't real chrome, something in it still reacts to the oil in your skin, causing oxidation.
 
I have used chrome dutch boy brand spray paint and after wet sanding and clear it's not bad. Doesn't look chrome when you get close but it will fool you from 10 feet away.
 
Thanks for all the input. I am also thinking about using SS paint on all the accents since I have cheap access to SS bolts and live near the beach. This way I could use SS hardware to avoid rusting and make the accents match the nuts and bolts on the bike... I could paint the accent pieces and the tank and chainguard with SS colored flames. Also I just snagged 2 .50 cal Ammo boxes that I am thinking about adding as saddle bags and painting them flat black like the bike and adding SS colored flames on them... Any pro or cons on SS hardware or paint? How much of a concern would Galvanic corrosion be with SS nuts and bolts and the frame? Any experience? Thanks in advance!
 

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