Clear Coat

[JGood]

So I have stripped and primed the entire bike at this point. For colors I was going for a Flat Black (Rustoleum Enamel) with Stainless Steel (Rustoleum Enamel) Accents. I wast trying to find a clear coat to protect the paints but all I can find is Gloss which would kill the flat black look I want for the body of the bike. I have found a few flat clear coats but they are Acrylic and Krylon. Any one have any suggestions or experiences with flat clear coats or using Acrylic over Enamel or mixing brands of paint? Thanks!!

 

[Voyager Al]

clearing over rustoleum is a bad move, even using rustoleum clear. I let my Rustoleum 2 tone paint cure 10 days between colors, and it looked great, but I striped between the colors with a flat testors paint. I cleared with their clear, and it crazed . Dont clear it!!!! I have read several people with the same problems. Flat usually doesnt need so many coats to build up alot of thickness. 2 tone it and leave it alone. JMHO

 

[JGood]

Appreciate the feedback. How does the paint hold up?

 

[Voyager Al]

depends on the preparation. if ya sand the primer with 320 or 400, and spray, it should hold up well. It never holds up like factory, but the flat colors are easy to spray a touch up.

 

[expjawa]

clearing over rustoleum is a bad move, even using rustoleum clear. I let my Rustoleum 2 tone paint cure 10 days between colors, and it looked great, but I striped between the colors with a flat testors paint. I cleared with their clear, and it crazed . Dont clear it!!!! I have read several people with the same problems. Flat usually doesnt need so many coats to build up alot of thickness. 2 tone it and leave it alone. JMHO

Just curious - what crazed? From the context, I'd assume you meant that the Testors striping did, not the Rustoleum base paints. IIRC, you can lay enamel over laquer, but not laquer over enamel. Doing so will result in the reaction you saw. But also, even if that isn't the issue, laying down too much paint too soon can lead to crazing, from what I've gathered discussing it with a guy I know that runs a body shop. If there's too much of a build up of reducer in the paint layer before it can dry and evaporate out, it will attack the paint. Assuming I'm remembering all of this correctly...

 

[Voyager Al]

No,the testors was fine.i painted cars for 20years.....actually it only crazed where I scratchrd it up with a scotchbrite.so I opened the skinned paint.rustoleum is the devil.I lacquer only now.fast dry. Then any clear..

 

[Voyager Al]

yes, Rusto has its pluses....like painting something 1 color. Cause of the fish-oil in it, it flows nicely. lasts well over rust. paint the porch glider,its good. Quality bike? 2 tone? Never again for me. Heck, I painted my old chevy station wagon with it...roll and tipped....Bright red o top, and semi-gloss on the sides. That car looked awesome. I may roll the roof on my conversion van this year. sorta like the Ford Flex, white roof. But no more bikes...nope....

 

[Wildcat]

I used Rustoleum gloss red enamel on my Schwinn in 2007. I gave it a week to dry before I added the second color, the cream accents. It still holds a good shine and I touch it up with the same paint and it looks good. I occasionally wax it with car wax and it looks like it was just painted.

 

[JGood]

So paint but don't clear coat? And giveit a week or two to dry?

 

[Voyager Al]

week betweeen recoating(2 toning). get on rustoleums website,search recoat time. I called them when I painted my car,they knew less than I knew. And dont sand between coats. Mask and spray it, peal mask,asap, and enjoy!