Coaster Hubs and Cog Compatibility

[Todd Schlemmer]

Hey Sprocketheads!

I tried searching the forums to no avail... Even Sheldon seems to lack this info.

I want to put a 22t cog on a Bendix 86 coaster hub. Rare as hen's teeth....
However, I have found a new Sturmey Archer cog that fits the bill. I have read assertions that the same cogs fit Bendix, SA, other hubs, but I recently bought a 22t cog (turned out to be KT) that is too small (by 1mm) to fit the Bendix hub. It's only $10, but I squander too much $$ on redundant/unnecessary parts.

Thanks
schlem

 

[Oak Tree]

So just throwing out ideas here…
If that KT cog is too small by 1mm and goes on with a snap ring, I’d take a dremal tool and grind that 1mm off until it fit the bendix.
Would that work?

 

[Todd Schlemmer]

So just throwing out ideas here…
If that KT cog is too small by 1mm and goes on with a snap ring, I’d take a dremal tool and grind that 1mm off until it fit the bendix.
Would that work?

I thought of that. I think a precise fit is critically important with just three splines / nubs for engagement. I don't have the skill, but a CNC might be a solution. I just ordered a sturmey archer cog, so we'll see. I'll post my findings here.

 

[us56456712]

I thought of that. I think a precise fit is critically important with just three splines / nubs for engagement. I don't have the skill, but a CNC might be a solution. I just ordered a sturmey archer cog, so we'll see. I'll post my findings here.

I did the dremel tool fit. I used a rat tail file and the dremelYou don’t need skill, just go slow. The three tabs were a little wide so it needed narrowing.

 

[Todd Schlemmer]

UPDATE: So far, neither KT nor Sturmey Archer cogs fit my Bendix 86 hub. I like the gearing, and I was committed to a 42T chainring IF I KEPT THE CRANKSET (which is a cheapo unit with a fixed chainring), but I have since bought a sweet Raceface Turbine square taper crankset. It's so loovely. Nicely beausaged too...

...best pic I have right now.

Whutimagunnadoo is switch the cog to 20t (not rare, I have a few), and stick a 38T narrow-wide chainring on the new (old) crankset.

And to heck with 22T Bendix cogs.
Pics pending.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Pretty sure @Starnger could cut you a cog if he had the measurements

 

[Starnger]

I can fabricate a front sprocket for a wide singlespeed chain easily, but not a narrow-wide chainring. I mean technically i could make a narrow-wide one too, but it would end up to be too expensive comparing to factory made one. I can as well fabricate rear sprocket out of stainless steel. It is cheap as long as it could be lasercut without a need to machine additional features like threads or so.

 

[Todd Schlemmer]

I can fabricate a front sprocket for a wide singlespeed chain easily, but not a narrow-wide chainring. I mean technically i could make a narrow-wide one too, but it would end up to be too expensive comparing to factory made one. I can as well fabricate rear sprocket out of stainless steel. It is cheap as long as it could be lasercut without a need to machine additional features like threads or so.

I hadn't considered having a cog cut, but after pulling the trigger on a proper crankset, I can use New/ NOS parts. But "knowing a guy" is always an ace up the sleeve! Now I can look at problems with an eye to a different solution. Thanks!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

...cheapo unit... but I have since bought a sweet Raceface Turbine square taper crankset. It's so loovely.

Lol at first I wasn't understanding you, thought you were saying that Turbine was the cheapo. That's a nice piece

 

[Todd Schlemmer]

Lol at first I wasn't understanding you, thought you were saying that Turbine was the cheapo. That's a nice piece

Ha ha! No, the OEM cranks are as basic as it gets. The steel chainring is peened on the crank arm (non replaceable), and slightly out of round. Not quite throw-a-chain bad, but chain tension is a vague notion. My $400 klunker is becoming a fancy tart!