The color is looking great on there. I really like the fork experiment, so cool. Great build!
Columbia 🐪 CamelBack - ‘21 2n1
- Thread starter MazdaFlyer
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The first 26” version seemed to work OK based on the short street ride I did. Still plan on doing version #2 with a 20” fork to adjust the rake or offset down.The most important part of fork experiments is riding it...
Thanks! More color to come, just takes time. I need to do a bit of sanding on the frame to remedy a run, then another coat and some accents and darts.
I got a 20” fork today.
I test fit the spring assembly with the fork reversed. That gets close to matching the stock fork’s offset, but still have some extra space at top. Only about an inch though.
The zip ties on the angle brackets are temporary. I’ll tweak some stuff and fab a strap to secure things.
Build and life goes on…
I test fit the spring assembly with the fork reversed. That gets close to matching the stock fork’s offset, but still have some extra space at top. Only about an inch though.
The zip ties on the angle brackets are temporary. I’ll tweak some stuff and fab a strap to secure things.
Build and life goes on…
And this is how it looks as a loose mock-up roller. Top bar not far from level. The frame would fit 28” wheels do there’s plenty of clearance front and back.
The springs are really stiff, might just look like a springer fork. It’s pretty rigid.
The springs are really stiff, might just look like a springer fork. It’s pretty rigid.
The Renaissance Man
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That's looking very promising!
I don’t have access to any CADD programs any longer after retiring and being tired. On my iPad I have an app, Notepad +Pro that can provide some tedious limited sketches. So here is a sketch showing the 20” fork geometry with the springer parts and 26” wheel with the frame head tube minus headset. Rake should fluctuate with spring compression.
Still need to fab a bracket strap to hold the “L” bracket rigid to fork leg in lieu of present zip ties.
Still need to fab a bracket strap to hold the “L” bracket rigid to fork leg in lieu of present zip ties.
The geometry of this looks okay to me. My main question is the lateral stability and tracking, and especially in turns. That's why I was wondering about incorporating another fork, or some round tubes in the design. Bolting round tubes together can work quite well, as per @SwissGuy 's swing build in Class II.
The elements of your main question have been running through my mind as I’ve worked through this. My initial tests with the first version with the exaggerated offset and Trail seemed to work OK.
I think moving forward in the interest of time I’ll finish the mechanics of the 20” fork. I’ll also complete the paint on the frame, install the bottom bracket and headset cups, mock it up again for riding tests. I’ll paint the 26” fork, and then after finishing the 20” fork it’ll get some paint as well. Thus 2-in-1, traditional stock rider and freaky springer ride, a little go and show.
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Worked for awhile firming up the 20” springer version. Guess I’ll break it down and give it some paint. Going to attempt using a 1” threadless headset so the 20” steering tube on the 20” fork will get a haircut. Think I have a way figured out to adapt stock fork to interchange the two. At least that’s the goal.
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This was going to be a paint day, but after getting my mowing done my paint booth got rained out.
So I took the 20” fork setup apart for painting, then worked on the hybrid head tube. I used a Sunlite threadless 1” MTB headset. It has 30.2mm cups. The Camelback head tube is around 33.12mm or 1-5/16” ID. That requires a shim. I cut down a 1” copper pipe reducer which works but I’ll probably get 1-1/4” piece to eliminate the stretching gap of the 1” piece. I did the trimming with a dremel tool.
I thought I’d shorten the 20” steering tube but it’s not too bad as is. Anything could happen at this point.
I used a 1” to 1-1/8” adapter at steering tube with 1-1/8” spacers over the adapter. Thought I had some 1” spacers but they avoided me if here. After looking at the mock-up again I’m thinking the 1-1/8” spacers add a little beefiness similar to the fork Appearance.
So I took the 20” fork setup apart for painting, then worked on the hybrid head tube. I used a Sunlite threadless 1” MTB headset. It has 30.2mm cups. The Camelback head tube is around 33.12mm or 1-5/16” ID. That requires a shim. I cut down a 1” copper pipe reducer which works but I’ll probably get 1-1/4” piece to eliminate the stretching gap of the 1” piece. I did the trimming with a dremel tool.
I thought I’d shorten the 20” steering tube but it’s not too bad as is. Anything could happen at this point.
I used a 1” to 1-1/8” adapter at steering tube with 1-1/8” spacers over the adapter. Thought I had some 1” spacers but they avoided me if here. After looking at the mock-up again I’m thinking the 1-1/8” spacers add a little beefiness similar to the fork Appearance.
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The Renaissance Man
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Full speed ahead! Can't wait to see how this works out!
I like the paint job! Been following along and have been curious about the fork geometry, but it seems you have it worked out. I've assumed it's like when I look at a Girvin and think "that ain't right," but there seems to be a method.... and the aesthetic is cool, so, Cool.
The 1” threadless headset I think gave me more concern than the rest so far. I’d like to get the paint wrapped up, but the weather keeps throwing me a curve. Trike-Tor and Basket-Case weren’t really good riders, hopefully the CamelBack rides better. I just have this desire to think outside the box with these rat rod builds, to me that’s the spirit of rat rodding. Thanks!
Thank you, more paint to come. I think the current geometry may workout. We‘ll see soon enough. The mechanics of this are starting to gel. Still need to evaluate the rear wheel.I like the paint job! Been following along and have been curious about the fork geometry, but it seems you have it worked out. I've assumed it's like when I look at a Girvin and think "that ain't right," but there seems to be a method.... and the aesthetic is cool, so, Cool.
Up to 3K views…Thanks!
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One small step at a time, shortened the 1” to 1-1/8” steering tube space 1/2”. That drops the stem accordingly and I flipped the stem over. More of a compact look. The headset parts are all dry assembled for easy tear down, frame and fork going to paint.
On a side note I ran across this crusty accessory springer in a Facebook posting.
On a side note I ran across this crusty accessory springer in a Facebook posting.
Wow! I like the look / style of that fork. Looks like a Schwinn style bladed fork with maybe a sleeve over it to add stability and to attach the spring assembly. The blade fork would meld with your flat metal pieces and maybe make the transitions easier than the round fork legs.
Also, impressive saw guide tool. Looks very much like the one we use at the shop.
Also, impressive saw guide tool. Looks very much like the one we use at the shop.
Well everything is apart again. I prepped the 20” fork for paint and shot it with etching primer. I also finish wet sanded the standard fork and the frame, frame had quite a few blemishes that showed up. Got the frame cleaned up for rat rod quality, this isn’t a concours event.
Anyway the weather is dry and sunny so all three got new top coats. Hopefully some accents and darts come next after some curing.
Anyway the weather is dry and sunny so all three got new top coats. Hopefully some accents and darts come next after some curing.
Here’s another couple of sleepers to muddy the water:
The tubing cutter comes in handy once in a while, ensures a square cut most of the time.
I had no idea there were earlier ancestors of MazdaFlyer back in the day. 
10 generations back my grandparents left Wiltshire England and sailed on the James to Salem, Massachusetts in1636 long before bicycles came to be a thing.I had no idea there were earlier ancestors of MazdaFlyer back in the day.
