Drag bike

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
138
Reaction score
182
Location
Quinte West, Ontario, Canada
Ever since I was a kid trying to customize bikes, "more longer more better" was the rule for handlebars and forks and chrome is king. Over the past year or so I've been accumulating parts for a dream bike. I still haven't picked a frame for it but I am going to try to use these parts on it:

parts.jpg


These are 36 inch triple tree forks and 24 inch apes. I want to push the front wheel as far out front as I can so it's going to require raking the head tube.

I'm a little torn between building a 20 inch bike so I can exaggerate the proportions, or a 26 inch that would be more rideable for an adult.

Cantilever 3.png
Cantilever 4.png


Whichever way I go with this, I'm going to have to teach myself to weld, so this ought to be fun.
 
Got my attention! I'm down with whatever you go with :cool2:


Kool Predator effect making that wheel disappear.
 
@hamppea one of the pics you posted that is now gone was very much in line with what I have in mind. I love the stance on your build, I'm just hoping to avoid the speed wobble by actually raking the forks.

You won't have stability issues. Long trail length designs are safer but tend to feel 'heavy', the total opposite of negative trail forks such as mine. Negative trail is more of a thrill ride for me.
My suggestion is set things up so that you can test different rake angles. Research bike steering geometries to get a better understanding before starting.

Here ya go. Both bikes are quite rideable. The front wheel flops when the bike is parked.
IMG-20141221-WA0015.jpg
 
Consider a 24 rear on a schwinn type middleweight frame, larger frame than 20". Kick the fork out and either go 20" front for musclebike look, or skinny 26 or 700cc front for mototorcycle chopper look.

Same applies with a 26 rear and frame.

20" frame with a stretched fork and layed back head tube makes a very tight riding position for an adult. The stem is in your lap and you sit way back on the seat. Kinda like doing crunches when you ride. It doesnt ride well.
Moving to a 24 or 26 frame allows you some room

When you set the headtube angle be aware of what your bottom bracket height is, having to use a shorty crank su*ks. Measure BB height on stock cruiser and keep that height to use regular 170 or 175 cranks.

Speaking from experience:
Heres a pic of one my past MBBO entries, doesnt ride well, 26 frame shortened for 20" wheel. Shorty crank. Suicide Shifter came out well. Chainstay mounted v brakes were tight. I like the paint, blue pearl and flake layed over black base, flips in the suns. I need to un-F this at some point. Weld on new drops at different height for a 24 or 26 rear, swap to straight fork, or straight springer.
20161129_153214.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top