ELGIN DECOLUXE

[The Renaissance Man]

....." I finished the process of cutting out the openings for the frame. I have posted the steps a few times before during previous TRM Convertible builds so I'm not going to BORE everyone with it again here." hahaha!

lol, no pun intended. Good catch!

 

[kingfish254]

Skirts are some of the sexier bike parts in my opinion and adding them to your sexy tank should give your build an "R" rating.
Always fun to watch the precision of your builds too.
Loving the flow!

 

[LukeTheJoker]

I bet the only reason the tank is short at the rear is because you rotated it up to match the lines already on the bike, would not normally be an issue for your customers, but you just have to take it another step further!

Luke.

 

[Scribble]

This bike is looking fantastic.

 

[johnp.smith]

Thanks for all of the input everyone. I'm still not so sure about the mesh. Maybe if it's painted black it would work or possibly something other than the honeycomb pattern. We'll see.

Ok, so the reason that I revealed the skirt guards yesterday is because its finally time to mount the tank! I've been postponing the tank until the glass shop could catch up with inventory. I try to keep several on hand so that I can ship quickly when I get orders. I'm not complaining, but within two weeks of starting the build off I sold five sets and wiped out my stock. Anyway, I now have more on the shelf and I'm ready to go!

You may be wondering what the skirt guards have to do with mounting the tank. The reason is the lines. Consistent lines are very important to me when I build my bikes. I'm not afraid to pull out the laser level if necessary! The skirt guards have very straight lines in them that I want to carry over to the tank.

First I used a level on the guards and then I marked the centerline on the light bullets with masking tape to be able to level the tank more accurately.

Here's the tank propped up in place...

View attachment 25125
Now it's time to make some fiberglass dust!

That is all kinds of sick right there, WOW

 

[GuitarlCarl]

You know. Mesh or not will depend on the color scheme...
I'm loving this one as much as the one you built last year.
Winner winner, chicken dinner.

Carl.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Thanks for the comps everyone!

I bet the only reason the tank is short at the rear is because you rotated it up to match the lines already on the bike, would not normally be an issue for your customers, but you just have to take it another step further!
Luke.

That's exactly right Luke.
I knew that the trailing end would not completely cover the seat tube when I first decided to use this frame. However, It wasn't until I started lining up the tank parallel with the skirt guards that it moved even farther forward.

The two points that need to line up for the tank to visually flow (with any frame that they're used on) is the top tube and the seat stays. You can slide the tank up and down the top tube to change the angle but that will push or pull the trailing end at the seat tube. It will also move the tank up and down the head tube. So it's a bit of a dance in the beginning during the initial visual fit to make all three points work together.

With this bike it ended up moving the tank farther forward than any that I have done yet and I really like how far the headlights extend out in front! But of course that presented a challenge of how to secure the trailing end of the tank to the frame.

I will extend the end of tank with fiberglass 'goop' which is similar to Bondo. But I don't want to rely on it structurally to hold the tank in place. So I drilled into the end of the tank for a small piece of tubing to fit and then put it all back together and marked the frame where the tubing touched the frame. I then took it back apart and had Charlie weld it to the seat tube.

After putting it back together, it's as strong as any other bike I've built. Next, I will fill in the space and extend over the seat tube so that the small tube will not be seen.

Sorry for the long description, here's the pics!

 

[OddJob]

As I look at it again now, your schnoz really does stick way out there on that frame the way you set it up. The fiberglass is so versatile, molding with Goop or Bondo, cutting, sanding, painting, ...even inserting a catheter! I've enjoyed working with mine....

 

[LukeTheJoker]

I actually like it with it just mounted on the little tube, not sure it needs extra 'gooping'?

Luke.

 

[Chad T]

I agree with Luke. Looks great like that. Great idea with that mount!

 

[RustySprockets]

That's some proboscis you've got there, young man. I agree that it's unnecessary to cover the joint, but I understand if you desire to blend it to match the others.

 

[OneHorsePower]

iam for the filling of the gap ! would be cool to fiberglass the thing permanenetly to the frame as if it was made that way stock

lines flowing , rounded joints and all

 

[metalchewy]

iam for the filling of the gap ! would be cool to fiberglass the thing permanenetly to the frame as if it was made that way stock

lines flowing , rounded joints and all

I agree that filling the gap will complete the flow/melding with the rest of the tubing on the bike for a common brazed look.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I agree that filling the gap will complete the flow/melding with the rest of the tubing on the bike for a common brazed look.

How much flex do you think there is on an old step thru frame?
I've heard that RM's tanks are thick,
but are they structural?
If anything maybe a couple rubber o rings.
But I like it clean too.

Carl.

 

[Chief]

like your attention to detail, flow and lines--closing the gap completes all 3.

 

[metalchewy]

How much flex do you think there is on an old step thru frame?
I've heard that RM's tanks are thick,
but are they structural?
If anything maybe a couple rubber o rings.
But I like it clean too.

Carl.

Sure, i hear the voice of reason... flex = cracks on the joint compound... o rings are a Kewl alternative.

 

[OneHorsePower]

could always weld a complete top tube (rod) hidden inside to remove flex for good

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Thanks for all of the ideas and opinions ya'll!

The tank works like a clamp that holds it in place and my concern for adding material to the end without the added support tube was that it could possibly break loose if it got knocked around or if it where to flex enough in some situation. I honestly doubt that this frame would flex much (if any) unless you took it over some sweet jumps. By adding the support tube the clamping effect is directly connected to the frame by the original piece which is structurally very strong. Anything that I add to it at this point will be purely cosmetic.

I did consider leaving it like it is but I believe that it will flow into the frame much better if I extend it out.

That's some proboscis you've got there, young man.

LOL, I had to google that one.

 

[Bike Bum]

I am very impressed with the way you can visualize projects/problems. My dad is that way and I managed to get some of that from him. Sometimes for me, it's not about finishing a project but the excitement comes from brainstorming ideas and working thru the problem. Again, you're building another cool ride.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

I am very impressed with the way you can visualize projects/problems. My dad is that way and I managed to get some of that from him. Sometimes for me, it's not about finishing a project but the excitement comes from brainstorming ideas and working thru the problem. Again, you're building another cool ride.

Thanks BB.
I'm with you on finishing projects. It's definitely the process more than the end result when it comes to anything creative. We are made in the image of the ultimate creator so I think it's supposed to be that way!
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For those of you Keeping score, I finally got some bronze bushings for the final piece of the drop stand. I put it on the bike to test it and everything works very well including the clips. It holds tight in the up position but not too tight to make it hard to raise and lower it. I can mark it off the list until it's time to start painting!