EPIC FAIL!!!

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Do not try to spread a fork with a floor jack and too much "Gung Ho" effort! I split the fork and my hand in the process. EPIC FAIL! Does anyone know where I can get another fork for my Schwinn cruiser project? The one that I split had a 24 tpi pattern and was not original. It doesn't have to be pretty. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
epicfail1.jpg
 
The fork I had was for a 26" cruiser. I think that it may have been a Western Flyer or another nonSchwinn brand that was put on the bike. The threads are 24tpi instead of 28 tpi.
2012-02-15_12-34-50_901.jpg
 
Ouch, that happens to me all the time and your right about that fork which is definitely a Murray made bike fork.
 
If you can go on line, ebay or any cruiser or bike parts store probably has or can get what you need. Personally, i'd bite the bullit and "spring" for a "springer" fork. Can usually find them for under $75 bucks. Local junk yard?
 
turtle,

don't sweat the TPI too much. schwinn forks all used 24tpi, just like most of the world did. The Brits used 24tpi on most makes, but old Raleighs will have a 26tpi fork/headset. The French and the Swiss had their own standards, too. But, bottom line: balloon bike cruiser forks will have a 24tpi, and you can find them all day. (You're probably thinking about the american BB for OPC, which schwinn used a 28tpi but almost everyone else used the more common 24tpi. )

The details you WILL want to keep in mind: first and foremost, how long you need the steerer tube to be. It'll probably be around 6" (160mm) for your old Schwinn, but that's just my educated guess. *Measure to make sure*. A little bit too long is ok; you can use spacers. A little bit too short is barely workable, if you can find a suitable headset with lower stack height, but youprobably can't, so don't go a little bit shorter. Too short is entirely unworkable, without welding on a new steerer tube. Also, whatever fork you get, make sure there is a long enough threaded section. (No big deal; there probably will be.)

Another detail: the space between the dropouts. If you were trying to spread the fork that broke, you probably have a 100mm O.L.D. hub and a fork designed for 91mm hubs. Measure your hub before you buy anything, and make sure you get a fork with the proper spread.

Final thing to keep in mind: a fork will have a little "seat" upon which the crown race is pressed. Some of these measure 26.4mm, others measure 27.0mm. Most old bikes, esp old US-made schwinns, have a 26.4 race seat. A lot of new, China/Taiwan-made replacement forks take a 27.0 race. This isn't a terribly big deal, but you'll need to have the right sized crown race in order for it to work. A 27.0 race on a 26.4 seat will not steer reliably (slip), and you won't be able to fit a 26.4 race on a 27.0 seat without grinding it down. They sell crown races for loose-ball headsets cheeep, but you'll wanna know about this bugaboo before you try to put it all together and find out it's not workable without more parts/work. (All this info applies to 1" forks only; newer/bigger forks tend take bigger races, and they've pretty much universalized the sizing for 1 1/8" forks.)

All that being said, I have some 26" forks that I'm going to be listing for sale soon, and all but one of them is gonna be really cheeeep. Measure all yer stuff first, and shoot me a PM. Maybe we can work something out....

HTH,
-Rob
 
Is the lower race the part that the bearings sit on? How hard is it to remove one from a fork? The steerer tube that was on it was about 6 3/4 long from the bottom of the race to the end of the threads.
 
Turtlesixfour said:
Is the lower race the part that the bearings sit on? How hard is it to remove one from a fork? The steerer tube that was on it was about 6 3/4 long from the bottom of the race to the end of the threads.


I usually just wack the edge of them with a ball peen hammer a few times and they knock loose and can then slide right off, if you don't care about the fork, because I miss and hit the fork... lots. You can rest a large flatblade screwdriver on the edge and tap the screwdriver with a hammer lightly going from one side the other if you don't like the brute approach. If neither is working, add heat.
 
I have removed mine by trying to take the cap off, the caps are bent a little to hold them in place but I noticed the position of where it is slightly bent is different on all the forks if you can figure out how to lightly bend it enough with something strong but small to lift up then wiggle the cap with the race up until they are both off but don't bend it too much just enough to release the cap.


You might want to have something on your hands in case it slips so you won't hurt yourself again.
 

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