Fork threading needed

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Hi, I'm rebuilding two Schwinn speedsters and the forks I bought for them are 1" threaded ones but need another 7mm of threading because of the Schwinn's short headtube. I asked around and the shops that can do it ask quite a bit of dough, can anyone help out?
I'm in MD, thanks in advance, Willem
 
How much was a "quite a bit of dough?"

I had a local shop do it for me a year ago and I think they charged me $20-$30.
 
80$ for the two of them, considering the tool is about 200$ a lot, then again I probably wont need thatafter this build
 
Cheaper still is the Yooper method, works every time, well sort a. Take a bunch of the races that screw on to the fork tube. These are hardened and tougher than the fork tube steel. Put the fork in a vice with wood blocks to protect it. Use a big pipe wrench and tighten the race beyond where there are threads. Use cutting oil as you go. Go back and forth. When the threads get shallow and it is too hard to turn the race, discard the race and use another one. Keep doing this until you have the desired thread depth. I have done this many times over the last 40 years and never had one get loose. You have to use the pipe wrench or plumbers pliers to tighten the race for final adjustment on the bicycle and also to remove it for cleaning and greasing. I figure that is better than spending $ I don't have to. I always save a bag full of races in case I want to do this again. If I have a more valuable bike, like the 30s Colson truss rod fork I put on my 1940 CWC then I take it to the bike shop. Here it is $20 for threading a fork. I almost always use the Yooper thread cutter methodology cause its free.
 
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Where in MD? If you can make it into B-more, our co-op can lend the tools and expertise to do this for you. Pretty sure you could pay a one-time fee (maybe $5) if you don't want to execute a membership. The only bad news is their limited hours.

Summer shop schedule begins tonight, despite what the web page says.

Sunday - 2-5pm
Wednesday - 6-9pm
Thursday - 6-9pm

https://www.facebook.com/VelocipedeBikeProject/timeline
 
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Cheaper still is the Yooper method, works every time, well sort a. Take a bunch of the races that screw on to the fork tube. These are hardened and tougher than the fork tube steel. Put the fork in a vice with wood blocks to protect it. Use a big pipe wrench and tighten the race beyond where there are threads. Use cutting oil as you go. Go back and forth. When the threads get shallow and it is too hard to turn the race, discard the race and use another one. Keep doing this until you have the desired thread depth. I have done this many times over the last 40 years and never had one get loose. You have to use the pipe wrench or plumbers pliers to tighten the race for final adjustment on the bicycle and also to remove it for cleaning and greasing. I figure that is better than spending $ I don't have to. I always save a bag full of races in case I want to do this again. If I have a more valuable bike, like the 30s Colson truss rod fork I put on my 1940 CWC then I take it to the bike shop. Here it is $20 for threading a fork. I almost always use the Yooper thread cutter methodology cause its free.
thanks! I'll going to give it a go
 
Where in MD? If you can make it into B-more, our co-op can lend the tools and expertise to do this for you. Pretty sure you could pay a one-time fee (maybe $5) if you don't want to execute a membership. The only bad news is their limited hours.

Summer shop schedule begins tonight, despite what the web page says.

Sunday - 2-5pm
Wednesday - 6-9pm
Thursday - 6-9pm

https://www.facebook.com/VelocipedeBikeProject/timeline
thanks!
 
thanks! I'll going to give it a go
You don't have to go very far. I would probably use two lock rings in the headset to take up the slack so the headset jam nut can be tightened. If you want to cut it off screw on a bearing race and use the top of it as a guide to cutting, then back the threads off so you have clean thread to start.
 
Now.. if you take the Yooper method and a dremel tool with cut off disk back cut some slots around the threads it may work better!
 

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