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JA331

Ride it like you stole it.
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I’m in. I got a 1936 Schwinn built B.F. Goodrich Streamliner frame for free 2 years ago as it was damaged in transit and ebay refunded me 100%. I have everything I need to build it and plan to build it as old style klunker with a coaster. It will be painted and then aged somehow.

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What it would have looked like when new.

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Complete bike however I only got the frame, fork and a few other parts. It had been repainted but I found traces of black under the paint so originally it would have looked like the bike in the first photo.

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I had the frame sandblasted last year. The steerer on the original fork is bent and damaged. I plan to use this fork from a 60’s Corvette so I can run a front brake.
 
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Is it possible to run a derailleur with a one speed coaster? I want to use a crank with 3 chainrings on the front and use the derailleur solely as a tensioner.
 
The derailleur doesn't care if it's shifting or not, the tensioner function will work fine

EDIT ^WRONG^ I missed the coaster part.

The tensioner would work but you can't run a coaster brake with a derailler - when you backpedal the derailleur will keep the brake from working.

Tension in the chain goes to the bottom run of the chain when you brake, which would pull on the cage of the derailleur instead of putting pressure on the brake. Basically it would bottom out the tensioner and pull the chain into as straight a line as it could before it would start braking. Probably destroying the derailleur in the process. Assuming you could ever get enough braking to start the process.

On further thought it would probably stutter between very light braking and not until the top run of the chain got enough slack to get caught on something.

I don't know exactly what would happen. But the brake wouldn't work as intended.
 
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The derailleur doesn't care if it's shifting or not, the tensioner function will work fine

EDIT ^WRONG^ I missed the coaster part.

The tensioner would work but you can't run a coaster brake with a derailler - when you backpedal the derailleur will keep the brake from working.

Tension in the chain goes to the bottom run of the chain when you brake, which would pull on the cage of the derailleur instead of putting pressure on the brake. Basically it would bottom out the tensioner and pull the chain into as straight a line as it could before it would start braking. Probably destroying the derailleur in the process. Assuming you could ever get enough braking to start the process.

On further thought it would probably stutter between very light braking and not until the top run of the chain got enough slack to get caught on something.

I don't know exactly what would happen. But the brake wouldn't work as intended.
Thank you so much for the detailed reply. I had a suspicion it wouldn't work. I have a SA drum hub which uses a freewheel and will possibly use that instead.
 
That's a great frame for a klunker! Would that be considered a 'B' model? I've seen a couple of klunks built up on these frames and they look terrific. I've got a C model project in the wings; the frame has a similar look to it with some slight differences.

I think you'd probably be better off running the SA drum hub than a coaster on this one. I have seen coaster braked bikes with derailleurs but I don't think the brakes worked that well. Drum would definitely work. Great project, looking forward to seeing how it goes!
 
I’m not sure which model it is but it is one of the more common prewar Schwinn frames.

I assembled the parts smorgasbord this morning. Most of the parts were pulled from 2 mid 80’s mountain bikes. I am going to use this Akisu tubular fork with beefy canti mounts and el cheapo but cool cantis rather than the forged Corvette fork.

The tires are from my late model Schwinn heavy duty and the freewheel SA drum hub I bought last year on Amazon heavily discounted.

I have a few seats and bars to choose from and I think all I need to buy is a new chain, freewheel and bottom bracket kit to suit the Sugino forks.

I could use the rear wheel as it is but I’m not keen on welding canti mounts on the rear triangle and want a cleaner look.

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Frame looks killer blasted like that.
Love the exploded view of all the parts
 
I fitted the fork this morning. The cups were the correct size which saved me a few dollars. The steerer tube is a little too long and needs to be trimmed about 1/4”.

The kit of parts I have put together are representative of the decent quality stuff available in the early-mid 80’s in your local bike shop. Not the pro stuff you would find on the typical genuine klunker but nice nevertheless and lightweight.

I fitted the steerer tube cable guide as I may use a more traditional forged steel stem.
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Its a Taiwanese copy of a SR or Nitto. The advantage of this stem is it allows more room in the cockpit as the head tube on this frame has a lot of rake. I have a couple of high rise bars I am going to try tomorrow as I doubt I could even ride this bike with a low rise bar.
 
Both stems look good. If you're planning to ride it a lot then give yourself the room I think. That frame looks great bare, I really like the brazed joints. I'm considering doing my C model klunker bare with the original graphics painted on it.
 

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