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Parkpre Mountain Comp, with Parkpre specced tubeset, just finish restored after the Goose F1 build in the skinny division. The sticker residue from the branding removed was a bit of a hassle and it killed my heat gun right as I was finishing the evil deed (missed a small spot on the front of the head tube, doh). It's next up in line of the frames I have to be built up into a BMX conversion. It'll most likely have a mix of black and chrome parts and some Rhyno Lites in the wheelset. That seatpost is getting trimmed down too.

20221001_115954.jpg
 

OddJob

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Parkpre, wow that takes me back to the good old days of early MTB action! Cool frame and I like your build ideas.

That extended seat tube is pretty cool though, and makes this frame stand out, ala Kona and a couple others that did that. Rhyno Lites will be wide and sturdy....black ano?

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Parkpre, wow that takes me back to the good old days of early MTB action! Cool frame and I like your build ideas.

That extended seat tube is pretty cool though, and makes this frame stand out, ala Kona and a couple others that did that. Rhyno Lites will be wide and sturdy....black ano?
Thanks, OJ! I saw this on CL as a complete a few months back and just had to have that frame for the modding.

The seat tube trim job is purely for functionality, providing the ability to lower the saddle as far as possible in order to make the build a fit for a wider range of riders, especially in a paved pump track setting. Most who ride offroad/BMX have a certain point on their inner thighs where the sides of the saddle make contact to provide a higher level of control in turns. On the paved pump tracks and speeds possible in the turns on them, having the saddle in "your spot" can make a huge difference in performance. It's not going to effect the integrity of the frame, otherwise it would not have even been on my radar.

Black Ano Rhyno Lites, for sure.
 

OddJob

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I get the seat tube / saddle height thing. I was thinking in your case....long and tall, that raised seat tube might be an advantage. :grin: You know, in case this one was a 'keeper'.
 

MattiThundrrr

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Most who ride offroad/BMX have a certain point on their inner thighs where the sides of the saddle make contact to provide a higher level of control in turns. On the paved pump tracks and speeds possible in the turns on them, having the saddle in "your spot" can make a huge difference in performance.
I've been trying to explain that technique to dropper post addicts. They don't get that the dropper only became a "requirement" due to huge wheels and steep seat tubes
 
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I've been trying to explain that technique to dropper post addicts. They don't get that the dropper only became a "requirement" due to huge wheels and steep seat tubes
Droppers are still not a requirement for me. I get people trying to preach the dropper posts a lot, which is another reason I don't do group rides much anymmore. I know their intent is good, but it just seems like a constant nag just like the wagon wheels (29er) instantly became when popularized by the industry. Pausing momentarily to drop a saddle manually for a long DH does something for me in getting a chance to catch my breath (if needed), take a look around at the scenery, and gear my brain for the madness that lies below. Sometimes I don't bother to drop it and other times I'll do full rides with the saddle down.

amasa.jpg
 

DesmoDog

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I don't know anything about dropper posts or 29" wheels but I can say that my '88 RockHopper comp has always had a post that can be adjusted without getting off the bike.

IMG_4054.JPG


The spring attaches to a long bottle cage bolt. In theory you can flip the quick release seat clamp and either sit on it to lower it, or stand up to let it raise up to where you want it. I've done it once or twice just to see if it can be done. In reality I still usually got off the bike on the rare occassion I wanted to adjust the seat.

In an alternate reality, the thing I liked about it was the chance that if someone tried to steal the seat it would pop up and smack them in the nose, and then not be removeable from the frame. We can dream.

I don't recall adding that when I bought it but I'm pretty sure it wasn't stock either. I worked at the shop when I got it so it was likely just something I added without much thought.
 

kingfish254

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This hurts me thinking how it would feel to ride a knobby tire down a hill.

1665019932978.png
 

MattiThundrrr

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This hurts me thinking how it would feel to ride a knobby tire down a hill.

View attachment 211997
There is a vulgar term which would not make it past the censors: a three letter word for where the rubber is and it forms the shell for a Mexican delicacy.
Donkey taco could be another way to state it.
 

Son of Kradus

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I don't know anything about dropper posts or 29" wheels but I can say that my '88 RockHopper comp has always had a post that can be adjusted without getting off the bike.

IMG_4054.JPG


The spring attaches to a long bottle cage bolt. In theory you can flip the quick release seat clamp and either sit on it to lower it, or stand up to let it raise up to where you want it. I've done it once or twice just to see if it can be done. In reality I still usually got off the bike on the rare occassion I wanted to adjust the seat.

In an alternate reality, the thing I liked about it was the chance that if someone tried to steal the seat it would pop up and smack them in the nose, and then not be removeable from the frame. We can dream.

I don't recall adding that when I bought it but I'm pretty sure it wasn't stock either. I worked at the shop when I got it so it was likely just something I added without much thought.
wow thats awesome!, surely ya can get a seat post thats got a key way along it, then you wouldnt worry about the seat going off center when changing height on the move!
the frames cool, 2 cable runs on the top, is the bottom cable mounts going to a front derailuer
 

DesmoDog

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wow thats awesome!, surely ya can get a seat post thats got a key way along it, then you wouldnt worry about the seat going off center when changing height on the move!
the frames cool, 2 cable runs on the top, is the bottom cable mounts going to a front derailuer
The seat is already indexed by the bottle cage bolt that holds the base in place. It can move a little but not all that much.
 
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I also put a headset on to test fit the fork
The Cane Creek Aheadset on there would work, but it's a little too patina-ed for my liking.

20221020_142750.jpg


The Tange Terious headset is on the way from Pork Chop.

Arriving early this morning via UPS was the rear v-brake and Avid BB5 going on the front. It's going to get Avid Speed Dial levers, but I'm undecided on using the silver ones I have, or ordering black levers.
 

MattiThundrrr

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It's going to get Avid Speed Dial levers, but I'm undecided on using the silver ones I have, or ordering black levers
Have you chosen bar and stem yet? Once it comes together, the choice may be easier. Also, inteded usage, is it for show? Black looks bangin, but scuffs and scrapes are more noticeable
 
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Have you chosen bar and stem yet? Once it comes together, the choice may be easier. Also, inteded usage, is it for show? Black looks bangin, but scuffs and scrapes are more noticeable
I have a new medium rise black bar already and a black GT front-load stem is on the way. Because the fork is 29er capable and the front end will be raised more than a 26" suspension-corrected fork, the medium rise bars and low-ish front load stem should keep the cockpit versatile for handling Pump Track and Flow MTB trails equally. This bike is being built to deal, so the quality of parts on the build is essential. The Rhyno Lites are supposed to arrive today and finding a black front disc hub that is not my OG Hugi 240 is on tap. Truly thinking the silver levers may be the way to go.
 

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