Harlequin T - FINI (or not)

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I think the angle of the fin on the back of chain guard needs to be flipped and you would like it better .
I could see that. But I've realized the value of holding on to it for a while and using the Higgins. Stay tuned for the harlequin paintjob on the Higgins. I'm hoping I can turn it into an art piece... I actually have some big ideas for the paint on this bike...

Guitarl. [emoji450]
 
There's an old man on my bike!
The knees come up to just under the steering wheel.
KIMG0446.JPG

So it needs some tweaks but this is going to work. I'll probably redo the stem end to eliminate the part that holds the bars, and that's half of a fixie hub so I'll need to tack the gear so it doesn't back off. The other end is the piece from a coaster hub that holds the cog, it needs some hackery done to it too. I don't need the inner twisty bit and it needs to slide over a 5/8 shaft. I'll see if I can tap a couple set screws in it or if I need to weld it... I need a half link, I need some 5/8th bushings and it all needs to be on the same plane. But those are just part of the tweaks.
KIMG0447.JPG



Guitarl. [emoji450]
 
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Well the ghost ring takes up the slack fine. But I'd have to anchor the center to use it. Because whichever side you pull, the chain moves to straighten out before it moves the gear. Effectively making it seem as there was slop/lag in the steering. My son pointed out that with the lag in the steering, it's likely that the forks would try to turn on their own....

Carl. :eek:
 
What about a short bar anchored perpendicularly to the top tube with two jockey wheels anchored to the outside of it via slots so that they're adjustable to push on each side of the chain (or they could reside within the chain's routing to push the chain outwards if there's so much slack that the chain contacts in the middle)?
 
What about a short bar anchored perpendicularly to the top tube with two jockey wheels anchored to the outside of it via slots so that they're adjustable to push on each side of the chain (or they could reside within the chain's routing to push the chain outwards if there's so much slack that the chain contacts in the middle)?
really it just needs a half link...
Or decrease or increase the fork tube rake, bit of
work but would solve the tension problem.
changing the rake will take the two gears out of the same plane...
KIMG0448.JPG

I don't think you guys get what I mean. The slack isn't the problem (a half link solves that as did the idler gear) The idler is able to move left and right. This isn't an issue when used on the drivetrain as it is vertical and 99% of the time rotating forward. But when it is used in the steering it must move both directions in rotation and the chain wants to be straight. So if I turn left, the chain tries to straighten out on the left side first, the idler shifts to the right and then the front gear moves, it lags behind the turn of the rear gear. Not going to be a problem though as I am not using it. I got a half link from the LBS today. Now I may try the idler on my drivetrain just because...

[emoji450]L
 
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Well the ghost ring takes up the slack fine. But I'd have to anchor the center to use it. Because whichever side you pull, the chain moves to straighten out before it moves the gear. Effectively making it seem as there was slop/lag in the steering. My son pointed out that with the lag in the steering, it's likely that the forks would try to turn on their own....

Carl. :eek:
Good point, I didn't consider that.
How about just using a half link instead? :39: :grin:
 
I'm with you now, okay here's the silly suggestion a massive
steering wheel from the forks or no steering wheel and super
long bars.

Two problems width with a massive steering wheel would be
an issue and turning circle with long bars, in that why these
are both silly suggestions and therefore this is a silly post!!!
 
@Pushie Pirate silly posts are all over my thread! But you got it now. No tiller & no leaning forward to steer.
Check this out.
KIMG0451.JPG
KIMG0453.JPG

These were identical bushings, but I "turned" the lower one on the shaft (with my bench grinder!) to fit inside the tube and I forced an old seat post into the tube to provide a bottom for the bushing to rest against while allowing to shaft to actually go a few inches farther. So the lower one will sit 8 inches or so into the tube and the top one will sit on top with just a bit of shim (3/4's in a 7/8's tube) tolerances will be fine for the application.
Now to see if I use the gears or a pitman arm and linkage... I'll try gears first because I have them and the half link. :nerd:

Guitarl. [emoji450]
 
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Have you been watching Mr. Wizard reruns lately?
 
 
So, I'm no physics wizard, but since the diameter of your steering wheel is quite large compared to your steering chain gear; won't the slightest turn on the wheel make a significant rotation of the steering gear, which will equate to the same on the front wheel? Ever hear the term "jackknife"?
:doh:
 
No, it's like having wide cruiser bars. More leverage, easier to control. Now, I do have a cog with less teeth in the front. I don't know the ratio but I'm hoping that it will quicken the response without having the effect you were describing. Now if a gear slips or a shaft or a chain snaps, then we have catastrophic failure and if in motion the aforementioned jackknife [emoji88] Yikes!

Guitarl. [emoji605]

sent from a banana phone...
 

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