Hellion

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

I already thought I smelled cheese on this forum. Reporting for dury sir!
Where is @Frankie plekhand ?

Off topic: Caught up with this build, love that tank work! Have fun building your wheel + looking forward to the finished bike

Thank you much for checking it out! Hope I make it!

 

[JA331]

Man that tank is beautiful.

 

[Frankie plekhand]

I already thought I smelled cheese on this forum. Reporting for dury sir!
Where is @Frankie plekhand ?

Off topic: Caught up with this build, love that tank work! Have fun building your wheel + looking forward to the finished bike

What? Cheese? Better be some Gouda!

 

[SwissGuy]

What? Cheese? Better be some Gouda!

Nothing better than some cave cured Appenzeller cheese from my home country!

 

[hamqqea]

It looks as if I will have to drill out the nipples to allow the threaded part of the spoke to thread past the end, in order to trim. The nipple and spoke match up equally and “shoulders” against the bottom of the threads. Unless there is another nipple option. Also if I need to drill, how much material should I remove to be able to lace up and true. Maybe half of the threads?View attachment 203094View attachment 203095

No need for any of that. Continue tightening with a spoke wrench when the nipples bottoms. They'll keep threading. You be left with 2/3rd or more thread engagement which is plenty for your use. You're just slightly long.

Trim the spoke ends with a dermel when the wheel is fully tensioned. Finalize by filling/sanding the nipple heads to remove any sharp edges.

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

Man that tank is beautiful.

Thank you much!

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

It was good to discover that the spokes will thread further rather easily. I think I will thread them all down before I start lacing the wheel. That way I will not be putting tension on everything during assembly. Should also help to notice when thing are tight from tension and not threading tension. @hamqqea do you think this is a good plan? Never laced a wheel before. I am confident in that part, just not trueing the wheel. I thought I would take that to someone to do it properly.

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

All of the spokes are threaded down a bit. Hopefully I will have it all laced up over the weekend. Maybe I get it in one shot.

 

[kingfish254]

Here is some "Lacing" music for ya

 

[hamqqea]

All of the spokes are threaded down a bit. Hopefully I will have it all laced up over the weekend. Maybe I get it in one shot. View attachment 203308

Sorry for not responding earlier, I'm around mornings lately.

Threading in advance is unnecessary. Extra work with no gain. You'll find the lengths vary slightly anyway depending on the direction spokes are entered into the hub along with irregularities. Some spokes may extend past the nipple heads more than others, or possibly not at all.

I suggest attempting to tension the wheel yourself with the hub mounted in a upside down frame. Rear hubs are too wide for a front fork. Attain the proper size spoke wrench for 12g nipples.
Cable ties can be useful.

A problem is that the ties can be rotated out of position which could cause the rim to shift off the center line of the frame. Keep flipping the wheel in the dropouts checking the wheel doesn't tend to one side. If it does, tighten or loosen the spokes of one hub flange.

Start tightening spokes in the area where the rim is furthest away from the hub. Easy to spot, where the rim jumps when rotated, called radial hop. Pulling the rim and hub closer to each other is a way of looking at tensioning a wheel.
Work the further points first to reduce hop. Truing laterally is easier. As you practice more you'll be able to true radially and laterally simultaneously. Work slowly with short turns per spoke going around. Use the valve hole as a reference point during the progression. Lastly, practice tightening spokes from different orientations so you're tightening/loosening correctly. It can be confusing for first timers.

Helpful hints for encouragement. . .

Search around YT for wheel building videos, unfortunately I rarely watch them to make a recommendation. Perhaps a member can.
What do you lose by trying? If you really can't, there's no shame taking it somewhere else. You might surprise yourself. You'll never get it if you don't do it yourself.

ciao

 

[Ulu]

One thing that I found helps me is that, when I initially install the nipples, I index them all so that the spoke wrench will point the same direction every time I install it and turn it.

This makes it much easier to get exactly Half a turn or exactly a quarter turn on every spoke, because the spoke wrench always points the same angle when you start and stop.

Of course as you finish the truing they will all end up slightly different, but it’s much easier if they all start out the same.

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

Sorry for not responding earlier, I'm around mornings lately.

Threading in advance is unnecessary. Extra work with no gain. You'll find the lengths vary slightly anyway depending on the direction spokes are entered into the hub along with irregularities. Some spokes may extend past the nipple heads more than others, or possibly not at all.

I suggest attempting to tension the wheel yourself with the hub mounted in a upside down frame. Rear hubs are too wide for a front fork. Attain the proper size spoke wrench for 12g nipples.
Cable ties can be useful.
View attachment 203387
A problem is that the ties can be rotated out of position which could cause the rim to shift off the center line of the frame. Keep flipping the wheel in the dropouts checking the wheel doesn't tend to one side. If it does, tighten or loosen the spokes of one hub flange.

Start tightening spokes in the area where the rim is furthest away from the hub. Easy to spot, where the rim jumps when rotated, called radial hop. Pulling the rim and hub closer to each other is a way of looking at tensioning a wheel.
Work the further points first to reduce hop. Truing laterally is easier. As you practice more you'll be able to true radially and laterally simultaneously. Work slowly with short turns per spoke going around. Use the valve hole as a reference point during the progression. Lastly, practice tightening spokes from different orientations so you're tightening/loosening correctly. It can be confusing for first timers.

Helpful hints for encouragement. . .

Search around YT for wheel building videos, unfortunately I rarely watch them to make a recommendation. Perhaps a member can.
What do you lose by trying? If you really can't, there's no shame taking it somewhere else. You might surprise yourself. You'll never get it if you don't do it yourself.

ciao

This is where I made it to last night. The spoke are probably .250 or more tall, some longer. Maybe do a four cross or order different spokes and nipples? @hamqqea

 

[kingfish254]

It looks to me like you only did a 2 cross pattern and not a 3 cross

I am only seeing 2 crossings per spoke (only count crossings on same side of the hub)

 

[hamqqea]

It looks to me like you only did a 2 cross pattern and not a 3 cross

I am only seeing 2 crossings per spoke (only count crossings on same side of the hub)

View attachment 203414

@kingfish254 confirms the mistake.

@Shrunken_Head_Pedaler. The spokes lengths you have will work for sure.
If crossing over the first 2 spokes and going under the 3rd is a problem for you then don't. Cross over ALL 3 spokes. Less of an issue with heavier gauges. I rarely go under the 3rd with 10g hardware.

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

@kingfish254 confirms the mistake.

@Shrunken_Head_Pedaler. The spokes lengths you have will work for sure.
If crossing over the first 2 spokes and going under the 3rd is a problem for you then don't. Cross over ALL 3 spokes. Less of an issue with heavier gauges. I rarely go under the 3rd with 10g hardware.

Thank you for seeing that. I will try again tonight or tomorrow

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

One thing that I found helps me is that, when I initially install the nipples, I index them all so that they spoke wrench will point the same direction every time I install it and turn it.

This makes it much easier to get exactly Half a turn or exactly a quarter turn on every spoke, because the spoke wrench always points the same angle when you start and stop.

Of course as you finish the truing they will all end up slightly different, but it’s much easier if they all start out the same.

Thank you for the insight! Much appreciated!

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

It looks to me like you only did a 2 cross pattern and not a 3 cross

I am only seeing 2 crossings per spoke (only count crossings on same side of the hub)

View attachment 203414

Thanks for catching that! Hopefully better results next time.

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

Successful 3 cross spoke lacing. Very happy. Thanks for all who contributed to noticing issues, solving problems and getting me through this process. My wife was a big help the past two nights working at this. We both now know how to lace a wheel in 2 cross and 3 cross pattern. @hamqqea Thanks coach!

 

[kingfish254]

Way to go!

 

[Tallbikeman]

It looks to me like you only did a 2 cross pattern and not a 3 cross

I am only seeing 2 crossings per spoke (only count crossings on same side of the hub)

View attachment 203414

Drew some suggestions for 3X spoke pattern.