HELP WANTED: Where can I get new fenders?

[gigmata]

Happy New Year Y'all,

I need some advice, please. I have built this 1941 Elgin for my friends dad. It was my Christmas gift for him (someday I will write an article about it). The fenders were badly dented and I didn't have time to straighten them prior to powder coating so they are just sitting in a corner.

Please advise me on where I can but new fenders that will fit this bike?

Also, where can I get a replacement headset and which size seat post to I use to replace the solid on the bike came with?

I removed the original skip tooth chain wheel, chain, cranks, and pedals and replaced them with modern units. Any idea what they are worth if sold together?

I have the original stem and bars. The chrome is nonexistent on them. What are they worth?

I also have the original seat which I might keep as a memento which I might keep as a memento which I might keep as a memento any ideas of its value?

Finally, the wheels. I was told these are 1936 Shelby wheels with new spokes. Any ides what they are worth (with these tires). Thanks for any advice you can offer. - Gig


- by Gigmata

 

[Bicycle808]

That's a Murray-built Elgin; you'll need a huge headset, but if you don't care about keeping it original, a Wald #4080 should fit. It looks like there's already an incomplete headset on there; I'd save whatever I could on it, and use 24tpi headset parts finish the job.

As for the fenders, is there anything in particular that you're looking for?

 

[deven_science]

Maybe here? http://ratrodbikes.storenvy.com/collections/904974-fenders

 

[Flying Zombie]

Happy New Year Y'all,

I need some advice, please. I have built this 1941 Elgin for my friends dad. It was my Christmas gift for him (someday I will write an article about it). The fenders were badly dented and I didn't have time to straighten them prior to powder coating so they are just sitting in a corner.

Please advise me on where I can but new fenders that will fit this bike?

Also, where can I get a replacement headset and which size seat post to I use to replace the solid on the bike came with?

I removed the original skip tooth chain wheel, chain, cranks, and pedals and replaced them with modern units. Any idea what they are worth if sold together?

I have the original stem and bars. The chrome is nonexistent on them. What are they worth?

I also have the original seat which I might keep as a memento which I might keep as a memento which I might keep as a memento any ideas of its value?

Finally, the wheels. I was told these are 1936 Shelby wheels with new spokes. Any ides what they are worth (with these tires). Thanks for any advice you can offer. - Gig


- by Gigmata

All together, Im not sure of a value.. you want to give people a deal when a bulk sale is available, you know? "Bundle".. If I were to sell these same parts [the wheels didnt show up] from what I can see, the seat would fetch 20 bucks..people like the original rustic stuff, patina, and light rust usually..gives it character, you know? but naturally they wont pay what a new seat of the same style would be worth.. The bars have what look like pretty nice grips on it, and original at that.. with the goose-neck attached..maybe 30 bucks if youre patient, but 20 safely. Cranks vary, condition is alot with those, because their a primary function of the bicycle.. a little wear is fine, until it clocks the purpose, know what I mean?

Crank arms, crank, and pedals as a set should get 30..maybe even as high as fifty depending on the crank itself. Yours looks like my 69 Murray crank, and despite personally loving the style of those, they dont seem to fetch much..thats really anyones guess, but I wouldnt imagine much less than 20-40.

All together, seat..bars.. crankset and pedals.. [and wheels, without knowing their visible condition but assuming similar to the handlebars..would be a good drop at 50-75]..but the BAY is subject to a number of different things.. you might on a good day get 50 for just the seat.

[opinions off experience with ebay only. not a professional estimate]
FZ

 

[Flying Zombie]

long story short.. Id pay 50-75 for all the pieces I can see. [discluding wheels].. call me naive, but those bars are cool .. and I can never have too few rusty saddles. They do make neat man cave decor.

FZ

 

[Bicycle808]

Whatever; I just wanna know about the Vittoria-brand tire-condom you have strapped to the rubber in those pics....

 

[gigmata]

That's a Murray-built Elgin; you'll need a huge headset, but if you don't care about keeping it original, a Wald #4080 should fit. It looks like there's already an incomplete headset on there; I'd save whatever I could on it, and use 24tpi headset parts finish the job.

As for the fenders, is there anything in particular that you're looking for?

GOT YOUR ID
A huge thank you for the ID and headset info.

GETTING A HEAD (headset)
It was indeed incomplete. The bike is already a gift and far past my budget but it is for someone who deserves it.

THE FENDER
I didn't care about color or style of fender really. I tried to put a Felt 1909 fenders on it with no luck at all. The frame was too narrow. I don't want to buy something I can't use because I choose the wrong size needed. As you can see, I didn't have the time or budget to keep it original.


- by Gigmata

 

[gigmata]

Maybe here? http://ratrodbikes.storenvy.com/collections/904974-fenders

They sure are affordable. I need affordable.


- by Gigmata

 

[gigmata]

Whatever; I just wanna know about the Vittoria-brand tire-condom you have strapped to the rubber in those pics....

I wrote to the guy I bought them from about becoming a re-seller and got no response. I will keep looking. They came from ebay and I bought his last three. Others may sell them. The search I used on eBay was "bicycle tire cover". They work well on fat 24x3" tires but you are really working to fit them on 26.2's. They are probably made for triathlon bikes and not for wider tires.


- by Gigmata

 

[Bicycle808]

GOT YOUR ID
A huge thank you for the ID and headset info.

GETTING A HEAD (headset)
It was indeed incomplete. The bike is already a gift and far past my budget but it is for someone who deserves it.

THE FENDER
I didn't care about color or style of fender really. I tried to put a Felt 1909 fenders on it with no luck at all. The frame was too narrow. I don't want to buy something I can't use because I choose the wrong size needed. As you can see, I didn't have the time or budget to keep it original.


- by Gigmata

Re: the headset: what all is there? It looks to me (ever the optimist) that you probably just need a top nut and keyed washer? That'd be rad; any 1x24tpi top nut and 1" ID keyed washer would do, plus maybe a few 1" spacers.... but, if you're missing more, let us know what you have on-hand so we can advise. Whatever you do, don't ever get rid of those cups! A decent loose-ball donor headset will run you under $10 new, and close to free, used. Look for one out of an old US-made cruiser or BMX bike--these tend to have the beefier cups and bearing cages.

Re: Fenders: If you got 3" between those stays the easy/quick fix would be to get Wald #962-26 (plain balloon) fenders, which come in either chrome or gloss black. They also got #972-26 fenders, chrome only, with the duck-butt flare. If your frame is too skinny (<3"), get the #952-26 middleweight jawns; they're narrower, but will still cover balloon tires sufficiently with some careful tweaking. Lookin at $20 to $30 for the whole set.

Re: tire condoms.... you're right; it's probably for tri/roadie stuff but it's still a rad idea.

 

[gigmata]

Re: the headset: what all is there? It looks to me (ever the optimist) that you probably just need a top nut and keyed washer? That'd be rad; any 1x24tpi top nut and 1" ID keyed washer would do, plus maybe a few 1" spacers.... but, if you're missing more, let us know what you have on-hand so we can advise. Whatever you do, don't ever get rid of those cups! A decent loose-ball donor headset will run you under $10 new, and close to free, used. Look for one out of an old US-made cruiser or BMX bike--these tend to have the beefier cups and bearing cages.

Re: Fenders: If you got 3" between those stays the easy/quick fix would be to get Wald #962-26 (plain balloon) fenders, which come in either chrome or gloss black. They also got #972-26 fenders, chrome only, with the duck-butt flare. If your frame is too skinny (<3"), get the #952-26 middleweight jawns; they're narrower, but will still cover balloon tires sufficiently with some careful tweaking. Lookin at $20 to $30 for the whole set.

Re: tire condoms.... you're right; it's probably for tri/roadie stuff but it's still a rad idea.

Hey Bicycle808,

Thank you so very much. I want to give my friend's dad a safe bike that he can give to his kids and they can't hand it down for another 75 years. I truly appreciate your guidance in helping me achieve that goal.

- Gig


- by Gigmata

 

[Bicycle808]

YVW... good luck with it. That's a beautiful machine, by the way.

 

[Wildcat]

Nice bike!

The seat post is common for that period, a lucky 7. Is the old one too short or just rusty? You can rotate it to sit further back from the pedals also.
The original seat doesn't look too bad, not any bad rust. You can get some foam and fabric and recover it fairly easily.

 

[gigmata]

I did want to recover the seat. I have some high quality suede leather doing nothing in a closet. I will get some foam in the morning and give it a go. Any suggestions for foam at Joann Fabric.


- by Gigmata

 

[gigmata]

YVW... good luck with it. That's a beautiful machine, by the way.

Thank you, Bicycle808. I have fenders now. They are chrome. I am going to hit the bottoms of them with some clear and throw a ton of wax on them as it will live near the beach. I will post pics tomorrow.



- by Gigmata

 

[deorman]

Given the direction you have gone, you might want to check out some black Planet Bike fenders. A lot of shops carry them, they're inexpensive, don't rust, and due to the mounting stays and overall design will fit a wide variety of wheel/frame combinations.
http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7005.html

 

[gigmata]

Thank you, Deorman. I have fenders now but I wish I had seen these. I may use them on a future project.


- by Gigmata

 

[Bicycle808]

PlanetBike makes some nice plastic fenders, as does SKS out of Germany. The P65 is a good choice for balloon tires...

 

[gigmata]

All together, Im not sure of a value.. you want to give people a deal when a bulk sale is available, you know? "Bundle".. If I were to sell these same parts [the wheels didnt show up] from what I can see, the seat would fetch 20 bucks..people like the original rustic stuff, patina, and light rust usually..gives it character, you know? but naturally they wont pay what a new seat of the same style would be worth.. The bars have what look like pretty nice grips on it, and original at that.. with the goose-neck attached..maybe 30 bucks if youre patient, but 20 safely. Cranks vary, condition is alot with those, because their a primary function of the bicycle.. a little wear is fine, until it clocks the purpose, know what I mean?

Crank arms, crank, and pedals as a set should get 30..maybe even as high as fifty depending on the crank itself. Yours looks like my 69 Murray crank, and despite personally loving the style of those, they dont seem to fetch much..thats really anyones guess, but I wouldnt imagine much less than 20-40.

All together, seat..bars.. crankset and pedals.. [and wheels, without knowing their visible condition but assuming similar to the handlebars..would be a good drop at 50-75]..but the BAY is subject to a number of different things.. you might on a good day get 50 for just the seat.

[opinions off experience with ebay only. not a professional estimate]
FZ

Thank you, FZ. I appreciate it. Every penny it pays me back is a bonus. I a, hundreds over budget. Getting $100 or more back would be great.


- by Gigmata

 

[us56456712]

I did want to recover the seat. I have some high quality suede leather doing nothing in a closet. I will get some foam in the morning and give it a go. Any suggestions for foam at Joann Fabric.


- by Gigmata

I use closed cell foam for my seat as they don't absorb water. Joann here only had open cell foam. I got mine from an old back packing sleeping pad from a thrift store. You could also use a closed cell stadium seat pad. I used 2 layers held together with Barge contact cement but spray contact cement would probably work to. I trimmed a contour in the foam with a box cutter and sanded it with a Scotch sanding pad to round out the contour. I used marine grade vinyl I got at the fabric store for the final cover and it didn't stretch worth a darn. I would glue a small section to the pan with Sho Goo held in place with a spring clamp and go around with more glue after the earlier glue dried. I had to remove sections that were dry as I progressed as wrinkles developed. I pulled out the wrinkles and re glued. There is still slight wrinkles at the back of the seat, but not too bad. I should have used 3 or even 4 layers of foam instead of two. The suede might be easier to apply as it probably stretches, which the vinyl didn't. I put the seat in vinegar to defeat the rust. After some de rusting I took all the parts off and soaked it in vinegar again, scrubbing everything several times with a brass bristle and steel brush. After cleaning I soaked it in animal feed molasses so the phosphoric acid could make a coating of iron phosphate. I cleaned it with Brake Clean and 91% isopropyl alcohol as I was thinking that cleaning it in water would create more rust but I don't know if this is necessary. I covered all metal parts with rust converter, primer and then urethane enamel. Worked good for two years so far with no paint coming off the springs. I printed a seat logo from a net picture and soaked it in clear Gorilla Epoxy Glue and attached that to a thin strip of aluminum that came from an aluminum dryer vent fitting I got at the hardware store. Here are the pictures.


Molasses soak and wire brush scrub.

Bare metal with iron phosphate coating.