Hi from upstate NY

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] I grew up in the 60s, and all of the neighborhood kids had what we called polo bikes or banana bikes. The first one on the street then was my buddies new '66ish gold Rollfast 3 speed,console shift. I always wanted a multi speed muscle bike, but it never happened and I soon graduated to racing bikes.
Fast forward several decades, I now restore and collect unusual Muscle cars for a hobby/ living. I also have never lost my desire for a cool multi speed muscle bike. Ideally, I'd love a disc brake lemon peeler, but no luck....
My search for a untouched muscle bike ended last week when my girlfriends son wanted to get rid of an old bike left in his basement. When I heard of it, he delivered it to me sight unseen. What a great surprise when he unloaded it! it's a '68? Sears Spyder in magenta, looks untouched and excellent shape under the dinge. Love the dual rear brakes. i can't wait to get it in top top shape once again, it should only need a thorough cleaning,polish,and lube. Plus inner tubes!
A few questions,
Best way to shine the chrome wheels and fenders leaving no scratches? I am thinking a mild polish?
What is the go to cleaner and lube for the derailleur/chain?
Who made this bike for Sears?
Where do I get parts. Maybe a chain, inner tubes definitely!
I notice the 5 speed spyders
used a couple of different front chain wheel designs, I wonder why?
Thanks for any help!







 
My Javelin AMX
Very nice...well, with 401 4spd... very, very nice.

I always have my eyes open for a '68-'69 AMX...but, I think I've been priced out of those :grin:.

Only AMC I currently own, though not branded as such, is the Wife's '57 Rambler wagon...in two tone pink and white :cool2:.

Jason
 
Very cool. I looked it over the best I could from the pics you provided, and it does indeed look completely original. Very nice score! The bad news is, they aren't worth much because people really don't want them. The good news is: Yours is so cool in it's original condition, you should never care about price because you shouldn't want to get rid of it.

Sounds like your plan is to restore it to a like-new look? The first thing that should be done is that the bike should be completely disassembled so you can give each part proper care. If you don't know how to do that, or how to re-assemble it, it can be quite a task. So think about that.

To answer your questions:

Best way to shine the chrome wheels and fenders leaving no scratches? I am thinking a mild polish? Depends on what's going on with it. Looks like yours is in dusty, aged shape, but not worn. I would... and if you've never heard of this you'll think it's crazy, but I swear it works... wash each part under hot water and scrub it with balled up aluminum foil. Trust me, it DOES NOT hurt the chrome, where as any sort of polish, steel wool, or scrub pad can. Murray chrome isn't strong, and dulls easy. Balled up aluminum foil works absolutely the best! On the chain guard with that paint and spyder sticker, I would just wash it with soap and your fingers. That decal is so old it'll likely flake off if you hit it with anything. (Same for the frame decals... just be extra careful)


What is the go to cleaner and lube for the derailleur/chain? Are you going to ride it? If not, you can keep the original chain for originality. Break it with a chain breaker, soak it in kerosene and scrub it with a tooth brush. Let dry, then lube it with bicycle chain lube.


Who made this bike for Sears? Murray. But this design was exclusive for Sears. It's a 68 or 69. They were identical, and they serial number won't tell you either way.


Where do I get parts. Maybe a chain, inner tubes definitely! Ebay. 3/32" x 1/8" chain for multi-speeds. I prefer the KMC Z33 because it has an original look and doesn't have the annoying master link. Rear tube will be a 24x1.75", and the front will be a 24x1-3/8"

I notice the 5 speed spyders used a couple of different front chain wheel designs, I wonder why? Design differences were just for the look. They used both interchangeably through the years, I'm assuming based on availability. I see your design on a lot of '69's, which could mean it's from that year. But that's not an exact identifier.


Good luck! I see a bike like that and I just want to tear it down, clean it up and bring back the life! I'm envious of the fun you're going to have!
 
Very nice...well, with 401 4spd... very, very nice.

I always have my eyes open for a '68-'69 AMX...but, I think I've been priced out of those :grin:.

Only AMC I currently own, though not branded as such, is the Wife's '57 Rambler wagon...in two tone pink and white :cool2:.

Jason
Thanks Jason. Just finishing up a complete restoration on this '69
 
Very cool. I looked it over the best I could from the pics you provided, and it does indeed look completely original. Very nice score! The bad news is, they aren't worth much because people really don't want them. The good news is: Yours is so cool in it's original condition, you should never care about price because you shouldn't want to get rid of it.

Sounds like your plan is to restore it to a like-new look? The first thing that should be done is that the bike should be completely disassembled so you can give each part proper care. If you don't know how to do that, or how to re-assemble it, it can be quite a task. So think about that.

To answer your questions:

Best way to shine the chrome wheels and fenders leaving no scratches? I am thinking a mild polish? Depends on what's going on with it. Looks like yours is in dusty, aged shape, but not worn. I would... and if you've never heard of this you'll think it's crazy, but I swear it works... wash each part under hot water and scrub it with balled up aluminum foil. Trust me, it DOES NOT hurt the chrome, where as any sort of polish, steel wool, or scrub pad can. Murray chrome isn't strong, and dulls easy. Balled up aluminum foil works absolutely the best! On the chain guard with that paint and spyder sticker, I would just wash it with soap and your fingers. That decal is so old it'll likely flake off if you hit it with anything. (Same for the frame decals... just be extra careful)


What is the go to cleaner and lube for the derailleur/chain? Are you going to ride it? If not, you can keep the original chain for originality. Break it with a chain breaker, soak it in kerosene and scrub it with a tooth brush. Let dry, then lube it with bicycle chain lube.


Who made this bike for Sears? Murray. But this design was exclusive for Sears. It's a 68 or 69. They were identical, and they serial number won't tell you either way.


Where do I get parts. Maybe a chain, inner tubes definitely! Ebay. 3/32" x 1/8" chain for multi-speeds. I prefer the KMC Z33 because it has an original look and doesn't have the annoying master link. Rear tube will be a 24x1.75", and the front will be a 24x1-3/8"

I notice the 5 speed spyders used a couple of different front chain wheel designs, I wonder why? Design differences were just for the look. They used both interchangeably through the years, I'm assuming based on availability. I see your design on a lot of '69's, which could mean it's from that year. But that's not an exact identifier.


Good luck! I see a bike like that and I just want to tear it down, clean it up and bring back the life! I'm envious of the fun you're going to have!
Thanks Crash for all the great info! Yes, It is a keeper, as I love how it is untouched at 50 years old! And yes, I love the anticipation of bringing it back to "new at Sears" condition.
 
Thanks Crash for all the great info! Yes, It is a keeper, as I love how it is untouched at 50 years old! And yes, I love the anticipation of bringing it back to "new at Sears" condition.
The cable housing will be a challenge, since the original white has really yellowed with time. In my restorations I restore it, but I'll bet at least some of yours is stamped with the pink 'Shimano 333' on it, which is a nice detail for an original bike. I don't know what your plans are for the restoration, but if you do pull the bike completely apart, you could get some hydrogen peroxide cream and soak the housing in that to bring back the white. Same will work for the white shifter handle.

61fOYVUCcDL.jpg
 
The cable housing will be a challenge, since the original white has really yellowed with time. In my restorations I restore it, but I'll bet at least some of yours is stamped with the pink 'Shimano 333' on it, which is a nice detail for an original bike. I don't know what your plans are for the restoration, but if you do pull the bike completely apart, you could get some hydrogen peroxide cream and soak the housing in that to bring back the white. Same will work for the white shifter handle.

61fOYVUCcDL.jpg
I cleaned a small portion with invisible glass cleaner just now. Its white again!
 
I live in CNY. I know where my car would go to be rebuilt. I don't have one but if I ever do! Wow that AMX is about my favorite.
 
That cable housing came out really nice! I'm glad it's just dirt! I'd switch from glass cleaner to Simple Green, but man, if that's all you have to do... score!

Are you going to tear it down so you can clean every nook and cranny? I'm also a big fan of polishing ever nut, bolt and washer, but I have a bit of OCD when it comes to restorations too. lol
 
That cable housing came out really nice! I'm glad it's just dirt! I'd switch from glass cleaner to Simple Green, but man, if that's all you have to do... score!

Are you going to tear it down so you can clean every nook and cranny? I'm also a big fan of polishing ever nut, bolt and washer, but I have a bit of OCD when it comes to restorations too. lol
Yes, i'm a detailer by trade and and restore antique cars for national competition, so I am thorough when it comes to details!
 
Im having trouble finding a chain for this Spyder 5 speed. Found one,but it's in AUSTRALIA!
Also, what bike repair stand would be good?
 
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Im having trouble finding a chain for this Spyder 5 speed. Found one,but it's in AUSTRALIA!
Also, what bike repair stand would be good?
It depends on how much you want to spend. I have a Park Tools PCS-4 with a 100-5C clamp and I love it! If you are not going to be using it very much, that would probably be overkill though. There are cheaper stands but Park Tools is what you will find in most pro bicycle shops.

This might help:
 

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