Hiawatha Balloon tire - Make/ model/ year?

[axeman88]

My first balloon tire heavyweight, I bought this Hiawatha off Ebay last week. The bearings were stiff and the rear tire wouldn't hold air, so I took it down to bits, to derust, bang out dents, and grease and oil. These pictures are from the seller's auction. I can take more as I reassemble.

The seller's auction stated: "Shelby Hiawatha Men’s 26” Balloon tire (2.125”) bicycle. Got in a package and don’t need. Probable early post war bike with truss rods and airflow style guard. Tires are serviceable. Had a non-original chain ring which I replaced with pre-war Shelby skip tooth. Hiawatha badge meaning sold from Gambles. Weathered and worn original paint. Pinstriped wheels match color. New Departure skip tooth rear works well. Good rider with good bearings. Seat is sturdy and still has original cover. All components seem original to bike with possible exceptions of pedals, grips, and tires"

I'm pretty happy with the condition. The paint is discolored and fragile, and quite a bit of paint is missing, but mechanically everything seems pretty decent. One ground-down cone in the front hub, and one missing ball in the neck bearing are the only defects I've found.

Here's a few more of the seller's pictures:

My online research leads me to believe that this bicycle may have been made by Shelby and may be a 1947 model. I found this picture online from a Christmas of 1947 Shelby advertisement.

The bike in Shelby ad has the same chainguard as my bike, and looks the same to me in most details as my bike.

But, the (1947?) bike in the ad has a 1/2" pitch chainwheel, not a skiptooth. The seller said that he'd changed the chainwheel, but the New Departure Model D hub sprocket is also skip tooth. I'd actually prefer a 1/2" pitch chain drive, since this would allow more options in rear hub and chain replacement. Can anyone tell me if it's possible to get a replacement rear sprocket for that hub with 1/2" pitch?

I intend to ride the bike, not show it. Nothing about the bike suggests it was ever equipped with a rear rack, tank, or headlight.

Can anybody steer me towards a more definitive model and year? I'll post the serial number I found on the bottom of the crank housing, later.

 

[twojs.bike]

Help me understand that front fork. It doesn’t appear to have any springer action. What’s the point of the bars that go from the front axle to the headset?

Solid find!

 

[musclebikemadman]

Help me understand that front fork. It doesn’t appear to have any springer action. What’s the point of the bars that go from the front axle to the headset?

Solid find!

They are truss rods and add rigidity to the forks

 

[Wildcat]

It looks like this Shelby Flyer, so I'd say it's Shelby Made. The year I would only guess, there isn't a good serial number code that I've found.

I also found this, same truss rods bracket as yours.

https://mtlcycles.com/product/antique-shelby-double-top-tube-bicycle/

 

[musclebikemadman]

My first balloon tire heavyweight, I bought this Hiawatha off Ebay last week. The bearings were stiff and the rear tire wouldn't hold air, so I took it down to bits, to derust, bang out dents, and grease and oil. These pictures are from the seller's auction. I can take more as I reassemble.
View attachment 212993View attachment 212994

The seller's auction stated: "Shelby Hiawatha Men’s 26” Balloon tire (2.125”) bicycle. Got in a package and don’t need. Probable early post war bike with truss rods and airflow style guard. Tires are serviceable. Had a non-original chain ring which I replaced with pre-war Shelby skip tooth. Hiawatha badge meaning sold from Gambles. Weathered and worn original paint. Pinstriped wheels match color. New Departure skip tooth rear works well. Good rider with good bearings. Seat is sturdy and still has original cover. All components seem original to bike with possible exceptions of pedals, grips, and tires"

I'm pretty happy with the condition. The paint is discolored and fragile, and quite a bit of paint is missing, but mechanically everything seems pretty decent. One ground-down cone in the front hub, and one missing ball in the neck bearing are the only defects I've found.

Here's a few more of the seller's pictures:
View attachment 212995View attachment 212996View attachment 212997

My online research leads me to believe that this bicycle may have been made by Shelby and may be a 1947 model. I found this picture online from a Christmas of 1947 Shelby advertisement.
View attachment 212998

The bike in Shelby ad has the same chainguard as my bike, and looks the same to me in most details as my bike.

But, the (1947?) bike in the ad has a 1/2" pitch chainwheel, not a skiptooth. The seller said that he'd changed the chainwheel, but the New Departure Model D hub sprocket is also skip tooth. I'd actually prefer a 1/2" pitch chain drive, since this would allow more options in rear hub and chain replacement. Can anyone tell me if it's possible to get a replacement rear sprocket for that hub with 1/2" pitch?

I intend to ride the bike, not show it. Nothing about the bike suggests it was ever equipped with a rear rack, tank, or headlight.

Can anybody steer me towards a more definitive model and year? I'll post the serial number I found on the bottom of the crank housing, later.

It looks like this Shelby Flyer, so I'd say it's Shelby Made. The year I would only guess, there isn't a good serial number code that I've found.

View attachment 213041


I also found this, same truss rods bracket as yours.

https://mtlcycles.com/product/antique-shelby-double-top-tube-bicycle/

There is some information on the cabe about shelby bikes but they did not change much year to year and they often used the same parts in different years. I have a '46 Traveler. If you post the number I can see what I can find.

 

[axeman88]

Thanks for your responses. I have the bike almost back together and took some more pictures as I reassembled.

Help me understand that front fork. It doesn’t appear to have any springer action. What’s the point of the bars that go from the front axle to the headset?

Any steel structure is a spring of sorts, at least until the elastic limit of the material is reached. Here are some details of the fork design. The struts are solid 3/8" round steel rod. The chromed standoff brace at the bottom of the neck creates a pseudo triangulated girder structure, but as I see it, the truss rods will be load bearing in compression. I adjusted them accordingly, pressing down on the axle to pre-stress the forks against the load.

It looks like this Shelby Flyer, so I'd say it's Shelby Made. The year I would only guess, there isn't a good serial number code that I've found.

I also found this, same truss rods bracket as yours.

Thanks for the reference links. The red Shelby Flyer in the first image, looks the same in all details as my bike, to my eye. All the Shelbys that I have seen with the "waterfall" styled chainguard, as is both mine and that faded red bike, seem to be fitted with the "Sunburst" style 1/2" pitch chain wheel.

And, I see the Red Shelby Flyer has black grips of the style I think is called "coke bottle"? Perhaps those are the correct original style. My grips look too modern to me. They have the brand name "Hunt Wilde" molded in.

The pedals seem newer to me too, but not bad.

The red & white bike at the 2nd link has a different saddle spring arrangement, perhaps a replacement saddle? My bike has steel cups under the saddle springs, and I think the springs are single stage. I haven't really gotten into the saddle yet. It's fabric covered and too far gone for riding on. I think I'll reupholster it with leather.

The rack on this bike is the antique utility style I want to get for my bike. I think there's supposed to be a hook at center back to hold the kickstand up, not that extension spring.

My bike had the same issue with one leg of the truss standoff being bent upwards, although not as bad as this. I wonder what caused this damage?

There is some information on the cabe about shelby bikes but they did not change much year to year and they often used the same parts in different years. I have a '46 Traveler. If you post the number I can see what I can find.

Thanks for any help you can provide. I actually also joined CABE and created a similar thread there. I wasn't sure if belonged there or here, so I thought I'd try both.

The serial number is on the bottom of the crank housing. It looks to me like H33819.

A couple more pictures of the frame. The paint appears to be original. It looks to be applied over a yellowish bronze colored primer. The Shelby's like mine in the pictures I have seen online have been either red/white, blue/white, or red & blue & white. It was a good era for red white and blue in the USA, I guess. What color is your '46?

 

[musclebikemadman]

I wasn't sure if belonged there or here,

You belong anywhere you want to be. A lot less attitude here, some peeps can be a bit gruff and full of themselves over there. Sometimes you just have to deal with the BS to get the answers you need. Later today I can fish around and see what I can come up with.

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

Cool 40's shelby. The "H" serial numbers on Shelby's were used during two period of times. Early "H" serial numbers (frames) were built during the early 30's, and were comprised mostly of 28-er wheeled machines using numbers under 100,000. After 1941/2 heading into WW2 and afterwards, the serial number letter was once again drug out, with lower numbers being used after Shelby produced around a million+ bikes. The mystery of the serial numbers is still ongoing, but with help from RRB-ers and Cabe members, perhaps the cycling community can finally get it straight.
We are not far away. If you wish, you could post a picture of your fairly complete bike and the serial number specifically on the Pre-War Shelby badged serial number thread for positive Karma that would come from it.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/shelby-badged-serial-numbers-prewar.145931/
Cabers, as mentioned, can be a bit twitchy, but they have seen a lot of stripped, chopped and never to be seen again examples of old cycles that should have been kept together, which I tend to agree with. This I believe translates here to "you can't do that" attitude that seems communist at best. The Cabe is less about Ratting and more about preserving old complete examples.
Back to your 40's Shelby. It appears to have LOW miles, best indication of this is the reverse style rear fork ends that look like the hub was rarely if ever removed. Notice also the small "nips" at the end of the drops are still there. Low miles! Paint is also very well preserved. Wouldn't be wise to change this bike too much as it is mostly complete. BTW, those particular frames are very lightweight if found stripped are perfect for building a lightweight Rat. When the tubing changed over is also a mystery, perhaps after the War. Have fun bringing it back as it looks 2B all there except for some Torrington pedals. Nice bike!

 

[Phil Fink]

The yellow metal may be the result of dip-brazing for some frame joints, (or was it furnace brazing?). Some observe that paint may not adhere very well to brass brazing material. The bike might be about 1948 (H is the 8th letter), and in 1949 Shelby bikes have been observed to have aluminum plates attached with the serial numbers with 2-digit dates, (e.g., 49–00000…).

Not sure if any letters beyond “H” have ever been observed just prior to the era of the aluminum plates.

Also, the Gambles Hiawatha ads might be slightly different than the Shelby ads?

 

[axeman88]

The "H" serial numbers on Shelby's were used during two period of times. Early "H" serial numbers (frames) were built during the early 30's, and were comprised mostly of 28-er wheeled machines using numbers under 100,000. After 1941/2 heading into WW2 and afterwards, the serial number letter was once again drug out, with lower numbers being used after Shelby produced around a million+ bikes. ......... Back to your 40's Shelby. It appears to have LOW miles, best indication of this is the reverse style rear fork ends that look like the hub was rarely if ever removed. Notice also the small "nips" at the end of the drops are still there. Low miles! Paint is also very well preserved. Wouldn't be wise to change this bike too much as it is mostly complete. BTW, those particular frames are very lightweight if found stripped are perfect for building a lightweight Rat.

Thanks for the serial number info, and the clues to telling mileage on the bike. The frame did seem quite light when stripped, and even when fully built, I don't find the bike to be unmanageably heavy.

The yellow metal may be the result of dip-brazing for some frame joints, (or was it furnace brazing?). Some observe that paint may not adhere very well to brass brazing material. The bike might be about 1948 (H is the 8th letter), and in 1949 Shelby bikes have been observed to have aluminum plates attached with the serial numbers with 2-digit dates, (e.g., 49–00000…).

Not sure if any letters beyond “H” have ever been observed just prior to the era of the aluminum plates.

Also, the Gambles Hiawatha ads might be slightly different than the Shelby ads?

I think you may be right about the bronze color being brazing metal. It does have a very metallic appearance.

I see this Hiawatha on Ebay with what looks like a serial number stamped into the head-badge. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165548216408

Is this what you meant by an aluminum plate attached, or do you think this is a actual pre-war bike? If this is not what you meant, ... where was the aluminum number plate attached?
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I finished reassembling the Hiawatha in the middle of last week. I had found a pair of Schwinn Typhoon Cord reproduction tires in my collection and put those on. Unfortunately, the first two tubes I selected for the rear wheel were both slow leakers. It holds air long enough to pass a water bath test and hold "squeeze test" pressure for a day or two, ... long enough to fool me. I guess I'll have to break down and put a new tube in there. One thing I like about the balloon tires is that once one gets the wheel off, dismounting and remounting can be done without tools. Indeed, I think I could change tires with one hand and a few missing fingers.

My usual strategy of dilute phosphoric acid worked great on passivating the rust. All signs of red oxide have been replaced with dull gray iron phosphate, and I waxed over that and the old paint. However, for the first time while using phosphoric, I noticed it was oxidizing the paint. I had to chase the acid treatment with rubbing compound and paint brightener to get back to something that looked decent. Even with the extra effort, I prefer the passivation to allowing the red rust to stay.

Here's how the Hiawatha looked for its first road time under my ownership:

The expedient Messinger saddle came off a hulk. I think it's from a 24" because it's small and I bottom out the springs on bumps. I added a bell, a few reflectors, and a basket for a few essentials and rode it as shown for my Friday commute to work. The bike made rather a big impression on some of my co-workers of a certain age. One lady said, "it's SO retro!" while another suggested that I touch up the paint. Popular with the ladies!

I was pleased with how the bike rode. My 5.6 mile commute averages 30 minutes in the car, 25 on motorcycle, and about 35 when riding one of my 3 speed lightweights. On the Shelby, I made the ride in 30 minutes, more a testament to the fact that I was exceptionally lucky and no traffic lights went against my progress, than due to the bike being particularly fast. Still, I was pretty easily able to hold what felt like a 60 rpm cadence, and I made it up the one hill with my butt on the seat. Not Bad!

Once I get everything sorted with the bike, I'll try a NOS set of whitewall tires I have that I can push up past 50 psi. I inflated the Schwinn Typhoons up to ~38 psi, (they say "22-35 psi") and they rode very smooth, although once my slow-leaker tube had done it's thing there was some noticeable drag.

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

I might have an industrial heavy duty rack like the one in that picture (but nicer) if you'd like me to look. It was missing the vertical struts, but they could be made from flat stock. Not sure if it's still in my parts stash or I threw it out. I'd give it to you if you just cover the shipping.

 

[axeman88]

I might have an industrial heavy duty rack like the one in that picture (but nicer) if you'd like me to look. It was missing the vertical struts, but they could be made from flat stock. Not sure if it's still in my parts stash or I threw it out. I'd give it to you if you just cover the shipping.

Wow, thanks for the offer. Very generous, that would be great. I could definitely make some struts. I think I have some 3/4 x .090 flat wire that would be just about right for the purpose. No rush, but if you do find it, I'd be happy to offer you some money for your effort.

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

here's the rack if you want it. No worries if you don't like it.

shipping would probably be about $12? (depending on where you are of course)

 

[axeman88]

here's the rack if you want it. No worries if you don't like it.


View attachment 214734
View attachment 214735

View attachment 214736

shipping would probably be about $12? (depending on where you are of course)

I definitely DO want that. The obround shape is very nice, very classy. That's going to look awesome!

I'll PM you with my address. Thanks again!