How important is wet sanding?

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I'm at a point where I'm either just going to spray clear over this rattle can, or I could wet sand it. I've never wet sanded, and I'm worried I would ruin the (not terrific) rattle can job I've done. What would be the benefits? The drawbacks? Could it ruin the two tone, or spread the red to the white parts?
 
As long as the paint is fully dry it shouldn't smudge the 2 tone. Wet sanding just smooths out the paint and gives depth to the color. If you do make sure you use only a very fine grit sandpaper and plenty of water or you can eat through the paint. If the paint is smooth enough to suit your needs I'd just clear it but if you're looking for show quality then wet sanding could help you get there just be careful. Also use a very light touch you're wet sanding not digging for gold.
 
did ya lacquer or enamel? If its enamel, you may have problems clearing if ya sand. It opens the pores, and acts like fresh enamel again. Ya have to wait a week to 10 days, or you will craze the base. Just saying.....I ruined a restoration doing the wetsanding the week dry rustoleum. I shouldnt have sanded it, just cleared.
If ya lacquered, go for it.....
 
I used rustoleum enamel. What do you mean "craze the base"? I did have a spot where the red cracked over the white underneath. Don't understand why that happened.
 
Be careful with Rustoleum. It used to be super easy to work with and very forgiving. Not any more (thanks EPA). If you spray over it too soon all your paint will crinkle up. A couple years ago I was trying to paint a wheel set with it, and the stuff wouldn't set up at all. I waited two weeks, and it was still gummy. Had to strip it all off and start from bare metal.
If you're sure your paint is set, I'd start with 800 grit lots of water, and work up to the 1200. After wet sanding at 1200 grit you are almost polished.

JWM
 
What I'm doing right now is just a trike for my daughter, so a good chance to learn. I think next time I'm going to get dupli-coat from an auto parts store.
 
the usual thing to do is lay down the primer. let it dry(overnite or more). than sand and clean and lay down the base coat. give it 15 or 20 minutes and than lay on the clear coat.
after that you can wet sand and buff and polish.
thats the normal thing to do.
if yer patient you can clean and wet sand inbetween every stage and get better results.
prep and clean gets the best results.
 
CRASH said:
What I'm doing right now is just a trike for my daughter, so a good chance to learn. I think next time I'm going to get dupli-coat from an auto parts store.

Duplicolor is great if you want a nice color but plan on 5 coats paint and another 5 of clear because the durability is not great. My favorite as far as spray paint goes is Krylon dual paint and primer in one. Stuff has a decent look and so far is tough as nails.
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned. When I was taught wet sanding in a body shop years ago, I was told to throw a bar of soap in the water bucket to give a little lubrication to the process.
 
DaBigKahuna said:
One thing I haven't seen mentioned. When I was taught wet sanding in a body shop years ago, I was told to throw a bar of soap in the water bucket to give a little lubrication to the process.
I was told a similar thing. Use a few drops of dish soap in with the water.
 
I learned how to paint working in a moped and motorcycle repair um....shed :mrgreen: We used to buy up all the $100-$200 ugly mopeds in town, throw a $20 paint job on it, add $150 to the price, and send it down the road.

Before
P8030099.jpg


AFTER
P8050013.jpg


I do upholstery too!
PC290187.jpg


Here's my recumbent that I am still rebuilding but I did the black/red fade on it freehand with a spray can.
bender5.jpg
 
Henry ; How long have you been retired ? you sure seem to have a lot of time on your hands :idea: :lol: :lol:
 

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