So, I wasn't sure whether to put this in Builds or E-Bikes, but I decided not to put it with the beautiful stuff some of you guys are doing in Builds - I'd just put it here. 
This is obviously another Worksman trike that I'm electrifying, but also tarting up a little.
I originally picked up this trike in reasonable shape for about $120, and added a 3 speed hub. I've got two others that are electrified, one being the subject of my recent Humble Worksman Trike post. I've also got a 3G trike that was poorly modified with a triple tree fork and electric kit. The 3G became the donor for this new conversion, which is a bit troublesome but coming along.
I took the triple tree fork off the 3G, discovering that the odd nipple at the bottom end is the top of a seat post! Yeah, the guy who put the 3G together used an old seat post for a steerer tube. The original steerer tube that came with the fork must have been too short, that's all I can figure. I thought it was a 1 inch threadless fork. Turns out the steerer tube is like 23.8mm or 15/16 inch. Then, I was worried that the aluminum cross pieces that clamp the three trees together might have been way over-tightened to make this work. I put the calipers to the steerer tube hole and it appears to be designed as 23.8mm. Where the heck did this thing come from?
So, the guy who had it before me had used ELECTRICAL tape as a shim to take up the slack to make the 1 inch headset bearings work with this steerer.
Surprisingly, I have been able to make the Worksman headset work okay with this tube in mock-up. I'm probably going to seek out something to shim it with as I get it closer to completion.
I had a fairly recent Bionx 36v lithium battery. I have used that battery with this motor and it works fine. So, I'm going to cram the battery back into the Bionx "tank" shaped case. Right now, I have it empty, mocked up on the trike frame with hose clamps. Once I have a satisfactory means of mounting the tank, I'll take it apart and put the battery and card back in, jury rigging some sort of new battery-to-controller plug.
I've painted a Worksman plastic chain guard and the Bionx tank, giving them a fauxtina, rattle-can spraying satin black over brass/bronze metallic then working the black down with steel wool to let bits of metallic paint show through. I'll clear coat it when I'm happy with the look and I'm done doing work that might damage it.
The triple tree fork obviously needs to be trimmed down to length once I decide how long I want it. Right now, it's a bit long at the top, and I have about 7 or 8 spacers under the bar stem. I intend to leave the bottom part of the fork about the length shown, might raise or lower just a tad before cutting off the extra length of metal.
I might like to do the entire frame in this kind of distressed metal fauxtina. I don't think it work that great with red.
I need to paint the back rims black and put matching tires all the way around.
I mounted the tank "backwards," as the lines are just better than turning it the other way.
I'll probably put the controller box where it is shown, between the forks. It fits in there pretty nicely - the question is how to mount it without using more tacky hose clamps or drilling the forks. I don't suppose it would hurt to drill them between the top and bottom clamps, though. The fork probably takes less stress there than any place else along its length.
I could probably drill small holes in the back of the fork and attach something flat to mount the controller to. Maybe even then attach a light in front of the controller - although the heat fin surface of the controller does not look all that bad between the trees. Putting the controller here certainly shortens up the wiring run.
The rim the motor came with has a black finish that just won't do for rim brakes. Luckily the fork and motor are designed for (and came with) a disc brake.
The 1 1/8 threadless handlebar stem is shimmed to the 23.8 mm steerer. I'm glad I didn't find the 1 inch threadless handlebar stem I was looking for - I would have had to crank it down real hard to grip the 15/16th tube. Better to use the homemade shim that came with it.
The trike will get a different basket or no basket - maybe a wooden crate. This trike will be a spare ride when we have company, as well as a conversation piece when I want to cruise around the immediate neighborhood. I live in a condo community where anytime you go out for a walk or a ride, there are half a dozen neighbors doing the same or walking their dogs. These electric trikes always have them asking questions, and when this one is done it will be even more of a curiosity.
This is obviously another Worksman trike that I'm electrifying, but also tarting up a little.
I originally picked up this trike in reasonable shape for about $120, and added a 3 speed hub. I've got two others that are electrified, one being the subject of my recent Humble Worksman Trike post. I've also got a 3G trike that was poorly modified with a triple tree fork and electric kit. The 3G became the donor for this new conversion, which is a bit troublesome but coming along.
I took the triple tree fork off the 3G, discovering that the odd nipple at the bottom end is the top of a seat post! Yeah, the guy who put the 3G together used an old seat post for a steerer tube. The original steerer tube that came with the fork must have been too short, that's all I can figure. I thought it was a 1 inch threadless fork. Turns out the steerer tube is like 23.8mm or 15/16 inch. Then, I was worried that the aluminum cross pieces that clamp the three trees together might have been way over-tightened to make this work. I put the calipers to the steerer tube hole and it appears to be designed as 23.8mm. Where the heck did this thing come from?
So, the guy who had it before me had used ELECTRICAL tape as a shim to take up the slack to make the 1 inch headset bearings work with this steerer.
Surprisingly, I have been able to make the Worksman headset work okay with this tube in mock-up. I'm probably going to seek out something to shim it with as I get it closer to completion.
I had a fairly recent Bionx 36v lithium battery. I have used that battery with this motor and it works fine. So, I'm going to cram the battery back into the Bionx "tank" shaped case. Right now, I have it empty, mocked up on the trike frame with hose clamps. Once I have a satisfactory means of mounting the tank, I'll take it apart and put the battery and card back in, jury rigging some sort of new battery-to-controller plug.
I've painted a Worksman plastic chain guard and the Bionx tank, giving them a fauxtina, rattle-can spraying satin black over brass/bronze metallic then working the black down with steel wool to let bits of metallic paint show through. I'll clear coat it when I'm happy with the look and I'm done doing work that might damage it.
The triple tree fork obviously needs to be trimmed down to length once I decide how long I want it. Right now, it's a bit long at the top, and I have about 7 or 8 spacers under the bar stem. I intend to leave the bottom part of the fork about the length shown, might raise or lower just a tad before cutting off the extra length of metal.
I might like to do the entire frame in this kind of distressed metal fauxtina. I don't think it work that great with red.
I need to paint the back rims black and put matching tires all the way around.
I mounted the tank "backwards," as the lines are just better than turning it the other way.
I'll probably put the controller box where it is shown, between the forks. It fits in there pretty nicely - the question is how to mount it without using more tacky hose clamps or drilling the forks. I don't suppose it would hurt to drill them between the top and bottom clamps, though. The fork probably takes less stress there than any place else along its length.
I could probably drill small holes in the back of the fork and attach something flat to mount the controller to. Maybe even then attach a light in front of the controller - although the heat fin surface of the controller does not look all that bad between the trees. Putting the controller here certainly shortens up the wiring run.
The rim the motor came with has a black finish that just won't do for rim brakes. Luckily the fork and motor are designed for (and came with) a disc brake.
The 1 1/8 threadless handlebar stem is shimmed to the 23.8 mm steerer. I'm glad I didn't find the 1 inch threadless handlebar stem I was looking for - I would have had to crank it down real hard to grip the 15/16th tube. Better to use the homemade shim that came with it.
The trike will get a different basket or no basket - maybe a wooden crate. This trike will be a spare ride when we have company, as well as a conversation piece when I want to cruise around the immediate neighborhood. I live in a condo community where anytime you go out for a walk or a ride, there are half a dozen neighbors doing the same or walking their dogs. These electric trikes always have them asking questions, and when this one is done it will be even more of a curiosity.
Last edited:
