Is there a trick to...

[SCHWINNRAY69]

putting on a rear wheel and having the chain tight :?: :?:

 

[KOTA]

If you have the wheel as far back as it can go, and the chain is loose, you may have to remove a link.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

I always flip the bike upside down (might as well use gravity, I usually fight it :wink: ), then I FULLY inflate the tire (I like to use 24 x 3s, so I make sure there's clearance,Clarence). Then I place a wooden handle from a hammer (I've collected several different sizes) in between the tire and the kickstand mount and use it to push/hold the tire back while I tighten the axle nuts down.

Make sense, sorry, no pics of my technique. I work alone and only have two hands. :mrgreen:

Cheers!
Dr. T

 

[SCHWINNRAY69]

I always flip the bike upside down (might as well use gravity, I usually fight it :wink: ), then I FULLY inflate the tire (I like to use 24 x 3s, so I make sure there's clearance,Clarence). Then I place a wooden handle from a hammer (I've collected several different sizes) in between the tire and the kickstand mount and use it to push/hold the tire back while I tighten the axle nuts down.

Make sense, sorry, no pics of my technique. I work alone and only have two hands. :mrgreen:

Cheers!
Dr. T

That's what I do but I was wondering if there was an easier way :roll: It does work that way though :mrgreen:

 

[KJV]

I always flip the bike upside down (might as well use gravity, I usually fight it :wink: ), then I FULLY inflate the tire (I like to use 24 x 3s, so I make sure there's clearance,Clarence). Then I place a wooden handle from a hammer (I've collected several different sizes) in between the tire and the kickstand mount and use it to push/hold the tire back while I tighten the axle nuts down.

Make sense, sorry, no pics of my technique. I work alone and only have two hands. :mrgreen:

Cheers!
Dr. T

That's what I do but I was wondering if there was an easier way :roll: It does work that way though :mrgreen:

i do it without using the stick..;
just pull the wheel back with one hand then tighten
using the other hand. seems like the stick method would need a third hand.i do use an air ratchet ..
which makes it faster/easier to tighten the nuts.

 

[deorman]

I know they often come that way, but a chain so tight that it can't deflect freely just takes more energy and wears out faster. Looks good in the store that way though, and your chain won't fall off. You don't want enough slack for the chain to feed off, obviously. I loosely attach the brake strap first, then, like KJV, push the wheel back with one hand and tighten the chain side, then check alignment and tighten the brake arm (non-chain on freewheel hub :mrgreen: ) side.

 

[Wildcat]

Situate the wheel in the dropouts with the bike upside down. The chain does not have to be tight, just not very loose. Tighten the axle nuts a little at a time, do not tighten one side down tight all at once. As you get them
almost snug, check the alignment of the wheel per the frame and the seatstays. Then tighten the nuts down and check once more. Back them off to readjust the wheel perfectly, it'll make a big difference when you ride if it's aligned perfectly. Don't leave one side tight and move the opposite side, that will put stress on the axle and cause failure. A little slack in the chain is ok, you should be able to move it up and down a half inch or so. Too tight and you put stress on the bearings of the wheel and cranks. Get it aligned perfect and you're set for a long time, or until you get a flat.

 

[deorman]

Yeah, try to keep it aligned while you're tightening it, I just get the chain side snug first. In retrospect, I don't really tighten the nuts 'til I look past the wheels and frame to be sure it's all in plane.

 

[karfer67]

Situate the wheel in the dropouts with the bike upside down. The chain does not have to be tight, just not very loose. Tighten the axle nuts a little at a time, do not tighten one side down tight all at once. As you get them
almost snug, check the alignment of the wheel per the frame and the seatstays. Then tighten the nuts down and check once more. Back them off to readjust the wheel perfectly, it'll make a big difference when you ride if it's aligned perfectly. Don't leave one side tight and move the opposite side, that will put stress on the axle and cause failure. A little slack in the chain is ok, you should be able to move it up and down a half inch or so. Too tight and you put stress on the bearings of the wheel and cranks. Get it aligned perfect and you're set for a long time, or until you get a flat.

actually that is how i do it. well sorta first pull the wheel back and try to line it up while keeping the chain tight and snug the non drive. check the chain and take a look at the clearances get the chain tension where you want it and tighten the drive side. make sure you rotate the chain as it is very common for there to be tight and loose spots due to the sprockets never being quite round. once happy with that check the alignment and tighten the non drive. i have never ever seen an axle fail from doing this and i have been working in shops off and on for a very long time. maybe if you were to really get it out of whack and bend it back the other way. but the way i do it is perfectly fine oh and if you are having a hard time keeping the wheel from "walking" in the drop outs make sure you have washers under the nuts

 

[deorman]

keep the wheel from "walking" in the drop outs make sure you have washers under the nuts

+ :wink:

 

[jerrykr]

same here, never thought to spin the chainring and check for slack in case it's not quite round. Adding that to my method. Thanks!

BTW: I have an old rug that is big enough for the bike to be upside down on, the handlebars and seat, to keep it off the floor.
If the bike has a rear carrier, be sure the seat is adjusted up enough before you turn the bike over so that the carrier does not support the bike and get scratched or bent.

 

[deorman]

keep the wheel from "walking" in the drop outs make sure you have washers under the nuts
spin the chainring and check for slack in case it's not quite round.

+ :wink:

 

[deorman]

Details, details, get a 5-spd and let the derailleur take up the slack. :lol:

 

[SCHWINNRAY69]

Situate the wheel in the dropouts with the bike upside down. The chain does not have to be tight, just not very loose. Tighten the axle nuts a little at a time, do not tighten one side down tight all at once. As you get them
almost snug, check the alignment of the wheel per the frame and the seatstays. Then tighten the nuts down and check once more. Back them off to readjust the wheel perfectly, it'll make a big difference when you ride if it's aligned perfectly. Don't leave one side tight and move the opposite side, that will put stress on the axle and cause failure. A little slack in the chain is ok, you should be able to move it up and down a half inch or so. Too tight and you put stress on the bearings of the wheel and cranks. Get it aligned perfect and you're set for a long time, or until you get a flat.

I will try this tommorrow Much easier than what Dr.Tankenstein and I hace been doing :lol:

 

[Bigcam59]

Alot of times the front sprocket does not sit perfectly centered on the crank arm, so make sure you pedal the bike a few times to make sure that the chain is not too tight in one spot.
I can't tell you how many new BMX bikes come through set up with the chain too tight because of this. 8)

 

[SCHWINNRAY69]

If you have the wheel as far back as it can go, and the chain is loose, you may have to remove a link.

Turns out Mr.Larry was right I had the wheel all the way back and it was rubbing on the end of the fender leaving a 1" gap between the front :| The chain was to long :shock: Problem solved, thanks guys :mrgreen: