Komet Super Hub Rebuild

[udallcustombikes]

Another hub for the UCB Hub Project. As with my other rebuilds, I tore the hub apart and cleaned it up before hand for better pics.

Let's begin with the factory parts diagram

And the UCB Hub Cut Away

Here we go!

Begin by removing the lock nut while holding the square end of the axle on the other side.

Pull the keyed lock washer off.

While holding the brake arm, unscrew the axle from the hub.

Spin the driver counterclockwise to remove it from the hub. Now the brake cylinder and the driving cone will slide out the other side.

Here is what you should be looking at now, aside from my favorite multi-tool.

This is what it should look like inside the hub if it's assembled correctly.

Time to lube 'er up and reassemble. Put the brake cone, brake cylinder, and driving cone together.

Slide the assembly into the Hub shell.

Install the driver assembly into the hub from the other side by spinning it clockwise into the driver cone.

Insert the axle through the driver and screw it into the brake cone.

Tighten the axle up and then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Install the lock washer and lock nut.

Lets ride!

 

[subadrew]

Sweet!

I'll be rebuilding mine as soon as my parents leave after thanksgiving.


Thank you.

 

[65rat]

I did one of these last night 8)

 

[sumnermclain]

halfway through rebuilding mine, tell me, whats the best solvent to clean all those parts? yours is all so shiny and mine is still all mostly black or just dull

 

[udallcustombikes]

I use gasoline. While it isn't the safest option I find it works the best. I have also use Simple Green when I want to act like a responsible adult.

 

[wheelymarko]

That looks like a switchblade knife. I had one when I was a teenager. :lol:

 

[udallcustombikes]

That looks like a switchblade knife. I had one when I was a teenager. :lol:

It is indeed. Antique Italian EIG Cutlery. It sees as much use as most of the other tools in my tool box.

 

[Critter1]

Dumb Q here... What gets grease other than the bearings & races??

I'm about to rebuild a Komet and was wondering.. Does everything get greased up? Do the inner hub walls get greased? Help a rookie out..

 

[udallcustombikes]

When I rebuild a hub I grease everything. You don't want any places to have metal on metal contact with no lubrication.

 

[Critter1]

Thanks UCB!

 

[kim_dude]

Once again RRB to the rescue. Just rebuilt me 59 Meteor Flite and took it on it's maiden voyage. Zero stopping power with the Komit so I know what I'll be doing tomorrow night.

 

[metalchewy]

Excellent, I was just given a western flyer hi lo and was cleaning up the hubs and had installed the clutch backwards on this exact hub, the diagram here helped me finish the job and cleanup. Great site.

 

[mornview]

Hope it's alright for me to bump such an old thread. A few things:

1. Thanks for this tutorial ... this is my first coaster brake that I have overhauled that is not a Bendix or a direct descendent of the Bendix hub. I doubt I would've figured this out on my own - thank you.

2. I cannot get the coaster brake arm off. I want to remove it so I can remove the dust cap so I can get at the ball bearing retainer. Now before I damage anything, I just want to make sure I'm not missing some magic "trick". I imagine it's just wedged on there tight after decades of being on there. I used a pin punch and a hammer and gave it a few whacks and it looks like it's kinda sorta moving ...

3. I also cannot figure out how to get at the small ball bearing retainer in the driver. It looks like it's a simple dust cap, but a bit of prying with a screw driver isn't popping it off. Again, I just don't want to damage anything here.

Thanks!

 

[metalchewy]

To get the coaster brake arm off, it can be a pain. it can be wedged on, or some are somewhat pressed into place with the retaining nut, I can usually rock it back and forth with my habds and work it off. If u can't, try a crescent on the long flat part of the arm and try to get movement that way to work it off. Once moving, just us your hands. Worst case, a a small pry to separate or loosen it or a screwdriver. Both can damage the finish.

On the inner bearings on the sprocket, it can be taken apart with the big snapring, but can be difficult to get that ring back on. What I did there, was clean out those bearings with solvent and repack them within the sprocket race rather than taking that piece apart. Hope it helps.

 

[metalchewy]

Btw, The arm is easier to get off the hub when it is all together.

 

[mornview]

I already have the sprocket snapring off, it just appears that there is some kind of dustcap keeping the bearing retainer sealed off. If I have to I will just clean it out with solvent and apply grease without removing the retainer; I'm just a little O.C.D. and have to clean every last bit of the hub .

Thanks for the advice on the brake arm, though. I've had a few other coaster brakes with tricky brake arms, but never anything like this. I'll give it a shot!

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

Nice tutorial as usual. These are my favorite hubs.

 

[buickmike]

My komet seemed to travel excessively to activate brake.I saw wear on drum and I wondered if teeth on sprocket side of drum were worn. I was able to get another hub of a 24 wheel.Although donor drum has similar dimensipns- the knurling on it is different but again worn
Not a big deal to assemble.Just wish I could be sure of interchange when buying be. Parts.

 

[Karate Chicken Industries]

In-Progress on a restoration of one of these currently. Great tutorial, thanks for posting it up. I'll be sure to post a pic of the finished hub and wheelset, which is going to have a Union front hub and Belgian-Made Weinmann hoops, laced up with DT Swiss Champion 2.0 spokes. Euro-Win Style