My w&h new project

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Can anyone say what or why the heck these holesnare on the frame behind the crank area.. there in the exact same place on each side of the frame.. the ine showing is allot bigger though..
 

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Indents on both sides was from loose bearings letting the cranks flop around. But the tubing from back then is thick enough that it's still plenty strong enough.
 
Nice that's exactly what I picked up to repair it. I just picked up this weekend when I get home from work right not that sucker is getting a navel jelly batch and walnut shell sand blast the rest off.. then I'll put it.. "patina" psssh ITS FRIGGIN RUST..LOL. Thanks for ur input man
 
I haven't ru

Nice that's exactly what I picked up to repair it. I just picked up this weekend when I get home from work right not that sucker is getting a navel jelly batch and walnut shell sand blast the rest off.. then I'll put it.. "patina" psssh ITS FRIGGIN RUST..LOL. Thanks for ur input man
 
Don’t hesitate to ask questions. That frame looks like it might have a 5/8 inch seat post. To get it high enough for comfortable riding I use 5/8 inch cold rolled steel. Hot rolled just bends. If it made from any sized rod originally, use cold rolled steel or aircraft grade aluminum
 
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Good to know I've refurbished only like 3 cruisersnand many other things.. but nothing this old before.. I never gave any of it a thought until I talked to the gentleman I bought it from
 
Use a digital micrometer to measure the inside diameter of the head tube. If it’s close to 32.5 mm then for a replacement you need an “old school BMX headset”. A standard one is too small for a 32.5 head tube. Here are two bikes I raced with tall 5/8 inch cold rolled rod seat posts. 1930s and 1940s. Neither one bent in 30 mile mountain bike cross country races. As soon as you sit on a 5/6 hot rolled extended length one it bends. If your skinny like me it bends on the first bump.
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Also if you buy modern replacement wheels the front axle will be too big for the fork drops. People usually flat file the wheel axles, 180 degrees opposite, same plane both axle ends to fit the drops. You can file the drops wider but you have to file only one side across the drops, otherwise the wheel might end out crooked in the fork or frame. This takes a lot longer than removing the axle from the hub and flat filing it. The axle nuts still work. A new vintage fork, $80, a new axle $4-5. The rear axles on new wheels might fit in your frame. Try and buy a cheap newer big box store Huffy like used cruiser with 26 inch wheels. You can use the wheels, chain, tires, crank, bottom bracket, fenders, seat post top and seat. The pedals on these bikes are usually plastic and krp. Cut the top off the Huffy seat post, the place where the seat clamps to the post, and weld it to the 5/8 inch seat post cold rolled rod. If you don’t do this a modern seat clamp is too big for the 5/8 rod. Two bikes to make one. If you need a vintage fork, make sure it’s wide for balloon tires and that the fork tube is long enough to accommodate the length of your head tube plus the cups and top fittings. Too short is useless. A little too long is ok, you can use the top thread on race to guide your hacksaw and backing the race off cleans the threads so you can put the race and cap nut on. There are two common old cruiser quill stem diameters. The inside diameter of the fork tube determines which size you need. They are both available new. Make sure your head set top nut has the same diameter the quill. The top nut opening either won’t allow the stem through or there could be a big space around the quill stem and the top nut opening. Measure everything with your digital mic before you look for parts.
 
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Use a digital micrometer to measure the inside diameter of the head tube. If it’s close to 32.5 mm then for a replacement you need an “old school BMX headset”. A standard one is too small for a 32.5 head tube. Here are two bikes I raced with tall 5/8 inch cold rolled rod seat posts. 1930s and 1940s. Neither one bent in 30 mile mountain bike cross country races. As soon as you sit on a 5/6 hot rolled extended length one it bends. If your skinny like me it bends on the first bump.interesting atuff.. Interesting info I had a feeling the sizingnofnthings.wasngoing to be a bit different.. im taking notes for fure
 
Also if you buy modern replacement wheels the front axle will be too big for the fork drops. People usually flat file the wheel axles, 180 degrees opposite, same plane both axle ends to fit the drops. You can file the drops wider but you have to file only one side across the drops, otherwise the wheel might end out crooked in the fork or frame. This takes a lot longer than removing the axle from the hub and flat filing it. The axle nuts still work. A new vintage fork, $80, a new axle $4-5. The rear axles on new wheels might fit in your frame. Try and buy a cheap newer big box store Huffy like used cruiser with 26 inch wheels. You can use the wheels, chain, tires, crank, bottom bracket, fenders, seat post top and seat. The pedals on these bikes are usually plastic and krp. Cut the top off the Huffy seat post, the place where the seat clamps to the post, and weld it to the 5/8 inch seat post cold rolled rod. If you don’t do this a modern seat clamp is too big for the 5/8 rod. Two bikes to make one. If you need a vintage fork, make sure it’s wide for balloon tires and that the fork tube is long enough to accommodate the length of your head tube plus the cups and top fittings. Too short is useless. A little too long is ok, you can use the top thread on race to guide your hacksaw and backing the race off cleans the threads so you can put the race and cap nut on. There are two common old cruiser quill stem diameters. The inside diameter of the fork tube determines which size you need. They are both available new. Make sure your head set top nut has the same diameter the quill. The top nut opening either won’t allow the stem through or there could be a big space around the quill stem and the top nut opening. Measure everything with your digital mic before you look for parts.
 

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