I recently built a 1960s RollFast klunker, and while building I discovered the whole world of American bikes, Schwinns, Huffys, all that stuff, and that some of em used to be much higher quality. My dad grew up doing velodrome and road racing in the 1960s, and when I asked him about the road bikes he told me that American road bikes were too durable, and too heavy to compete to the lighter, less durable European/Asian competitors. He told me that the American bikes used wider tyres and all the components and the entire bike was built to be bombproof, and in some ways his description reminded me of a cyclocross bike. Rewind to the beginning of the summer, the whole reason I built the klunker was because I had a 2012 Felt Nine Flow with a Surly Ogre fork I was using as a commuter and mountain bike, that I had managed to bent the frame on, as well as destroy the bottom bracket, and headset, and during an attempt to keep the thing running I had discovered I had bent the handlebars, as well. Classes start soon, and I've been considering getting an old American road bike as a commuter, and a real selling point would be if I could put some standard cyclocross wheels on it. Has it been done? Can it be done? Are there any models that would work better than others? Mainly thinking of something before 1970. I'm not brand loyal. Not looking to buy, yet..
Old American Bike for Cyclocross?
- Thread starter RigidRiverRat
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The Schwinn Traveler and Varsity 10spd frames are pretty bomb resistant, and can easily be set up with 700c wheels. If you're thinking 650, one of the 3 spd 26" frames could work, but you'd want to change out the falt blade iron fork. They are heavy though. I don't remember the name, but there is/was someone here who managed to be competitive in cyclocross using an old coaster bike frame, maybe he'll respond.
Short answer is: yes. Many of the older US road bikes will come with 27" wheels/tires (630mm) and the cyclocross (CX) standard is definitely 700c (622mm) so you could swap out to 700c wheels...but keep in mind that the frames you're looking at already have low BB shells as compared to "real" CX bikes, so you may want to run as fat tires as possible to make up for the loss in height. Keep in mind that for years, the max tire width the UCI would allow in CX was 35mm-- for a minute there, it was only 33mm-- but nowadays, 200lb+ riders can enjoy 40c tires. Thankfully, if you're not competing, there are lots of CX-style tires in widths up to 48mm, thanks mostly to the "gravel grinding" set. Another option is keeping the 27" wheels b/c Kenda (and maybe a few others) still make a CX-style knobby in the 27"/635 size.... If you go with the 700c wheelset, you may need a different brakeset to reach the rims instead of the rubber, FYI.
Deorman mentioned 650s running on the older 26x1 3/8" "lightweights," but I'd be inclined to build up a 26 1 3/8" frame on 700c wheels, b/c for most of them (all of the Schwinns, and the majority of other brands) the 700x35c tires will fit quite easily, and as a bonus, this will bring the BB height up for better clearance and a more -CX"-style riding experience. I think that running something like a Scwinn Racer or Collegiate as a singlesepeed 700c 'cross bike would be fun. Maybe I'll do just that. (Again, keep in mind that you'd likely need to change the brakes--this time, to something with a SHORTER reach...)
Deorman mentioned 650s running on the older 26x1 3/8" "lightweights," but I'd be inclined to build up a 26 1 3/8" frame on 700c wheels, b/c for most of them (all of the Schwinns, and the majority of other brands) the 700x35c tires will fit quite easily, and as a bonus, this will bring the BB height up for better clearance and a more -CX"-style riding experience. I think that running something like a Scwinn Racer or Collegiate as a singlesepeed 700c 'cross bike would be fun. Maybe I'll do just that. (Again, keep in mind that you'd likely need to change the brakes--this time, to something with a SHORTER reach...)
I weigh about 60 kilograms when I'm on a lazy streak, and I'm 175cm tall, so my weight isn't a problem. I am very rough on bikes, and tend to ride them from point A to point B no matter what's in my way, or crash trying. A cyclocross wheelset would be lovely to have so I can commute with it without breaking my wheels. The older bikes go for cheap and they run well, which I like. Thank you all
Oh, I wasn't mentioning weight out of whether or not it'd be a problem; it's more just a nod to the Cylcocross sanctioning body's rules. You gotta be over 190lbs to rock anything bigger than a 35mm, in a sanctioned race. =p Which is funny, b/c i get the impression you're not looking to race, but there's this persistent perception that cyclocross bikes are rugged and durable.... and once upon a time, they were. But serious 'cross rigs are dainty and race-light nowadays. A Surly Crosscheck is a pretty bombproof bike, but no one seriously races on those... Racing 'cross bikes are like road-racing bikes with a hair more tire clearance, (sometimes) different brakes, and slightly different geometry.
I also live in Minneapolis, so I'm looking for something to maybe run studded tyres on? A Surly Cross-Check would be lovely, but I don't have that kind of money. I don't plan on doing any real cyclocross with the bike, just something to fling myself over curbs and through potholes and down gravel roads. I'm just looking for a sturdy frame for cheap so I can spend my money on nice bike parts haha. Plus it's fun to ride something old
Agreed. For that kind of mission, it is tough to beat a Chicago Schwinn "lightweight"-- look for Varsity/Continental/Suburban bikes for 27" wheels and Racer/Speedster/Collegiate bikes for 26x1 3/8" wheels. The nicest of the bunch is the Supersport/Sports Tourer/ Superior bike, but these will have a lot less clearance for tires (700x32mm is about as big as you can go wth normal amounts of clearance)-- but they were chromoly, hand fillet-brazed bikes with really rad geometry...
A lot of the cruiser style frames have a lot of flex, a diamond frame would probably work best. A Chicago made Schwinn 26" frame would probably be the toughest, and would fit the 700 wheels the best. I used a old Schwinn Racer for this bike I made up for my daughter's boyfriend. (These are 26 x 1.75 rims with 1.90 tires, smaller than the original 26 x 1 3/8, so there is clearance enough for wider tires) Bombproof.
What years should I look for when I'm buying? Are there bikes that were made outside of Chicago at the same time? Is there anything on a bike like a serial number that I can locate that will confirm the year it was made?
The Chicago thing is for Schwinns, before 1983. They have a serial number on the left dropout by the rear axle that can be looked up on a website. As for other frames, I don't think any other diamond style frame made in America was that tough.
http://schwinncruisers.com/serial-number.html
http://schwinncruisers.com/serial-number.html
Thank you all for helping! One last question: did the road bikes use imperial or metric parts? Did they switch from imperial to metric at some point in time just to keep up with competitors? I mainly have worked on American klunkers and cruisers. Are there parts such as brakes or derailleurs that are built to metric specifications, while other parts like bottom brackets and seats were built to imperial specifications?
If you get a Chicago Schwinn (aside from Paramounts, Superior, Sports Tourer), it's gonna have the same headparts and BB as the cruisers. Pure SAE/Imperial. The shifters are Schwinn bits and fit in the stack. The freewheel will thread on and will tend to be 1 3/8 x 24tpi but some of that schtuff is French so.... A lot of the derailers are Huret (French) and attach to the frame via a claw adaptor. Meaning, you can swap out to whatever... but you'll want to swap out the claw, as the Frogs used a different metric mounting system than the rest f the world did (but still metric....9mm vs 10mm) Seatpost is 13/16". 21.1mm stems (which is an imperial size but it's really just 83/100"...) 1" at the bar/stem interface. 3/8" axles, but the 9mm fronts and 10mm rears on modern wheelsets will fit, no mods required. Most Schwinn brakes from that era were Weinmann centerpulls; i never even checked out the hardware but you can interchange it with a new brakeset anyways. Basically, there's a bit of a mix on the bike, depending on the era it's from, but you'll be OK
They usually came in a 19, 21, or 23 inch frame, measured by the seat tube. The 26 inch bikes came in a slightly different size, that bike I posted above was a 22 inch frame. That was the selection, they didn't make different size frames by the top tube length. For me, also a 30 inseam, 20 inch would be perfect, so I usually had a 19 inch frame. With slightly taller wheels, the 19 inch frame may be just right for you.
Wow! great thread. You guys have me thinking of re-uses for a couple of Schwinns I have around. Especally a nice collegate that is just to short for me - but i like the bike otherwise and also this police auction special "World Sport" that I stripped down...
I'm gonna keep it short for once, and say "21"
I like the 90's steel hybrids that were often mtb made to fit the 700c wheels. Well built frames that allow for upgrades and lots of mounts.
My son has a Univega Via Activa but some of the others are:
Schwinn Crosscut
Giant Innova
Trek Multitrack
My son has a Univega Via Activa but some of the others are:
Schwinn Crosscut
Giant Innova
Trek Multitrack
