Packaging Science 101

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I heard once there actually is a course that teaches you how to pack STUFF so I always make a joke about it when the situation involves packing anything. In this case it's a bike. If you've ever shipped a complete dressed out bike - fenders, chain guard, rear carrier - and wanted the cheapest way - USPS - then you know it takes two boxes. USPS has a dimensional limit that consists of the following formula: Length + (2 x Width) + (2 x Height) = 108" or less. The one I did today comes in at 103". The frame can be twisted so the head tube reaches the top of a standard bike box but here's the thing - in the formula the multiplier is 2 x Width where as it's only one length. So instead of bringing the head tube up to the top of the box - which will usually put you over the 108" mark - I design it so the chain stays are parallel with the bottom of the box which lowers the head tube - that will bring you in under 108" everytime with a standard size frame. Then I build a box just big enough to pack the frame in it.

The second box which holds the wheels and whatever else didn't fit in the first box is nowhere near being oversized but I still try to make it as small as possible. In this case I got everything but the wheels and the rear fender in the first box. The fender fits over a wheel so it doesn't add hardly anything to the dimensions. Another thing I do with this box is find a sure fire way to protect the axle ends. Most every set of wheels I've ever received had holes where the axles popped out in transit. One guy fastened a shop rag over the axle ends - the axle still popped out but it was protected so there was no damage. The method I use is one I picked up from a guy that sent me a wheelset once. I take a strip of scrap cardboard and fold it back and forth on itself till I have four layers of coardboard approximately 6" in length. I bore a small hole in the last layer and then thread it onto the axle till the end is flush with the other side of that one layer of cardboard. Then I fold the other three layers back again and tape all 4 layers together still fastened to the axel. That's it - now you have 6" of cardboard to poke through the side of the box instead of a 3/8" axel - it's never happened yet.

The big drawback to these packing tips is that they take more time. A lot of people are scrambling everyday to try and get as much accomplished as possible. This retiree just happens to have a lot of extra time so coming up with new ways to pack parts is a challenge. The one trick I designed myself is to mount a frame for shipping on cardboard strips the width of the inside of a bike box - a standard bike box is approximately 8". I center the frame on these strips and then wrap some tape around both frame and cardboard. My object here is to add another layer of protection to frame contact points - head tube, bottom bracket, drop outs - and also center it inside the standard 8" box which gives the frame a lot of distance between it and the outside of the box. I have received frames where the head tube has punched out of the box. This method also keeps the frame from rattling around inside which can help cause punch outs.

One more thing that I actually believe helps in the handling of the box is I always mark it FRAGILE. They go through the regular routine of asking if it's glass, liquid or perishable and I always say it's crushable. I insured and shipped a $300 item once in a box that consisted of perfectly shaped styrofoam half shells that fit and protected the item perfectly. When it arrived they had stacked so much weight on top of it it was bent and cracked - cast steel we're talking about. When I tried to get reimbursed there was no visible damage to the exterior of the box - styrofoam compressed and then went back to original shape - and they would not pay for the completely destroyed insured item. So - I mark EVERY box FRAGILE in hopes that they handle it better.

In the pics here I did not center the frame because I needed to get a fender in beside it so I angled the frame till the head tube was about 1" from the side of the box. Then my front fender had plenty of room beside it. After that it's a puzzle fitting as many parts in as you can. When I am done the parts become a modular unit that can simply be slid in and out of the box together. I still ended up with 1" space on all sides of every part and nowhere does metal come into contact with other metal. I strive to get the parts to the buyer in exactly the same condition they were in when I took pics of them for the listing. I've been meaning to pass along some of this to fellow members - I hope someone found something they could use to make their packing job easier. Thanks alot and Have Fun! Robert

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This one doesn't count for usual cost because it's International and of course it depends on where you are in the US in relation to my location. From Indianapolis I can ship a complete bike in two boxes to Puerto Rico for $65.00. One more important note that I didn't throw in because it's subjectional but in order of most damaged goods received from the three biggest carriers: #1 UPS, #2 FedEx & #3 USPS and this includes my 4500 ebay purchases in the last 13 years. Taking the time to pack and construct dimensionally correct boxes to get the cheapest USPS rates is not worth the time to everyone. It's like throwing a $25 part in a $16.00 Flat Rate Priority Box because it's easier. Typically my customers prefer to wait a few extra days and get the cheapest shipping rates they can - that's what I try to provide. USPS shipping for a complete bike averages $10 to $15 cheaper than FedEx and FedEx also has size limitations - if you try to ship a complete bike in one standard size bike box you cross the FedEx limit for reasonable shipping - it has to be cut down 2"-3" in height to avoid the hefty surcharge. Also no carrier can even come close to USPS for International Shipping. That same bike to Puerto Rico with FedEx is around $150.00 - I looked into it before using USPS. I probably brought up more questions than answers with my response - us old people love to talk. Hope this helped. Robert
 
Six months ago I started working at a place where you can can send packages USPS, UPS, FEDEX or FEDEX FREIGHT. We also specialize in packing from eye glasses to a complete living room set. We get a LOT of ebay dealers that we pack and ship for. We also get a lot of pickers that ship EVERYTHING. Today I just packed a designer coffee table, from the seventies, it sold for $9000, plus a designer chair, from the seventies, sold for $2000..When you have all the right materials, it's actually kind of fun......And guess what. I get FREE shipping for anything "I" send for myself! :lol:
And Roadmaster you're absolutely right. Sometimes cutting the box down to the "right" size can make a huge difference in price.
 
This is awesome info. Thanks so much. I would be stoked to look at more pictures of packing jobs. Especially like the axle end solution.

How do you box wheels? Side by side or stacked or offset?

Thanks
 
B607 said:
jackdaw said:
Especially like the axle end solution.

Remove axles. Pack separately. Gary

When I ship a wheelset I do remove the axel from the front wheel but I've never taken a New Departure rear hub apart and I'm sure I'm not alone in this. If someone sent me a disassembled ND rear hub I would be in big trouble. Ideally that would be the best way to ship them especially since they should be serviced before using. I know there are tutorials on how this can be accomplished but I've also read where members have had difficulty getting them back together correctly and that kind of shys be away from even trying. Someday I will get the courage to attempt it, maybe on a practice hub. Thanks for the input. Robert
 
Hi! I'm going to be packing a wheelset directly - I will take pics and post them in this thread so check back in the next couple days. I'm also going to be packing a frame by itself so I'll do the same with that. And I have some pics of four S-7 Rims I shipped I'll include along with pics of the box I built for them. Thanks for the positive comments - Have Fun! Robert
 
Hi! I loaded some pics into photobucket - these are the four Schwinn S-7 Rims I sold to a member. These too are modular in that they slide in and out of the box as a complete unit. I went back to my cardboard strips again for this one. I just folded the cardboard so it not only protected the rims from each other but also spaced them correctly. A little packing tape and they are all together. I took measurements to determine the dimensions of the shipping box which I made square to help space the two unprotected sides of the rims by giving them a little space from the outside of the box. Then I cut 2 pieces of cardboard the width and thickness of the finished box and taped them centered on the rim protectors. They are now ready to slide in the box.

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I add about 1/4" on each dimension of the contents for the shipping box - you can't always control exactly where the cardboard folds. I get tons of free bike boxes from my LBS - they come already broken down flat. They have a small container with a roll up door on one end that sits in their parking lot - sometimes I stop and pick up some boxes on my way home from a cruise at all hours of the day. I measure evrything from the bottom fold and one end fold. If I am shipping a frame I use the existing box end dimension - they vary slightly in thickness. For most other boxes I just pretend their is no pre-existing end and measure right through it. When I lay out the sides of the box I put an end measurement on both ends of the complete layout. The object is to have two end flaps that overlap each other - if you only have one end flap you end up with a weak corner held together only by tape. This may sound a little confusing so here is the actual layout: End Flap - Side - End Flap - Side - End Flap. You need five sides to build a strong four sided box. You also add end flaps on both ends of every panel to form the top and bottom flaps.

The box will come with all the printing on the outside which makes it easy. After you measure out your 5 panels w/ end flaps on both top & bottom you cut off the excess cardboard. You already have the folds all marked out - just take a straight edge (1"x4", 4' Drywall T Square,piece of flat steel) and make the folds. Now with the cardboard laying flat you will need to cut the slits in the top and bottom flaps so when you assemble the box all the flaps will be correct. To insure they are cut correctly hold the straight edge on the side folds and cut the top and bottom flaps from the outside flap edge to the panel side fold. So that is 4 pairs of flap cuts on each fold between the five side panels.

Now stand it up and fold the box so that the printing is on the inside which gives you a brand new looking box with nothing to black out. I tape all the bottom flaps first, then the sides and finally the top flaps after the parts have been put inside. It probably sounds more complicated than it is. The pics don't show the step by step process - I'll add some better pics of the box construction when I box up the next frame.

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I hadn't thought this thread out in advance - I just started typing and it's kind of evolving. I was nervous about packing my first bike. After I started receiving bikes with damage I decided to try and come up with better (safer for the parts) packing methods. Judging by the response so far there are members out there that are in the same position I was wanting to know good packing techniques. Like they say, there's lots of ways of skinning a cat. Whichever works the best for an individual is the right way but don't be afraid to experiment. I'll be back with more pics and info. Thank you for your interest. Robert
 

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