Paint over paint with sand and primer?

[vestaviascott]

I'm getting started on my first project, converting an OP Roller to an Electra Sparker clone. The OP folks have already got me most of the way there right off the rack (the bikes are near carbon copies of one another), but there's a few tweaks I want to make.

First, I'm looking to paint the bike and rims. Then I want to strip the paint off the handlebars for a natural brushed aluminum finish.

On the frame paint job project, I'd just like to sand, prime and paint (rattle can). The original paint is gloss and I'll be going with satin on the over paint.

I saw this thread turned up on my search, but could not find the second poster's blog reference. It looks like it might have what I'm looking for in terms of a "how to" on the paint work.

Can someone give me a quick overview of the process? Here's what I'm thinking:

1) Wash the frame with soap and water. Dry thoroughly.
2) Sand the frame with (150?) grit just enough to remove the gloss sheen on the original paint (want to keep as much of the mil thickness of the original paint to protect against scratches.)
3) Prime the frame (which primer to use?)
4) Paint the frame (any suggestions on which brand to use?)

 

[B607]

I think you're on the right track. There are many good rattle can paints out there. Make sure you use the same brand of primer and paint. Also, clean your frame with laquer thinner after sanding and before you prime it. That will remove all the oils and sanding residue. Gary

 

[vestaviascott]

I think you're on the right track. There are many good rattle can paints out there. Make sure you use the same brand of primer and paint. Also, clean your frame with laquer thinner after sanding and before you prime it. That will remove all the oils and sanding residue. Gary

Thanks Gary. I appreciate the feedback. I think I'm going to want fenders before I do the paint work.

It will have to wait until I complete my 3 speed gear conversion. I'm hoping a scrap bike with an internal 3 speed turns up on craigslist or at the local thrift stores, but I'll probably end up springing the $120 for a replacement kit.

 

[KJV]

don't use 150 grit ; thats way too coarse.
all you need to do is dull the finish.
use a 400 or 600 grit.no primer is needed
unless there are bare metal spots;
then only over those areas. if you need
primer spots sand those ares again
to make sure the surface is even.

 

[vestaviascott]

don't use 150 grit ; thats way too coarse.
all you need to do is dull the finish.
use a 400 or 600 grit.no primer is needed
unless there are bare metal spots;
then only over those areas. if you need
primer spots sand those ares again
to make sure the surface is even.

Thanks KJV. I appreciate the "wisdom" of your experience

Nice handle by the way.

 

[KJV]

i like the wash down with lacquer thinner .
99.99% of any "paint job" is the preparation.
take your time & be grease free,things will turnout fine.

also, several "light coats" will give a good finish.
the number one mistake has been getting paint on
too heavy,this causes sags, runs.
grab one of those spray can handles;
a properly displayed store, will have them by spray paint.
these allow;even spray pressure,spray pattern.



KJV 1611 : my favorite Book.
great guide for life.eternally speaking. :mrgreen:

 

[scrumblero]

if your gonna go without primer do the first 2 or 3 coats SUPER LIGHT and let them dry a good 15-20 minutes before you start you normal coats, hopefully that will discourage the new paint from lifting the old. :roll:

 

[Fahrrad]

I would still prime the bike, I have done paint over paint and have had mixed results(yes I preped the same way). Some paint just does not go together. But the ones that did work, came out great. Maybe try the chain guard and see how it comes out, if ok then do the whole thing. I may not have the years of experience but I have painted a half dozen cars. Just my .02