Hey all, just curious as to how you paint your bikes. i know everybody has a little somethin different they like to do, id love to hear and maybe learn a thing or two. I personally (this is when i used to refinish racing parts for a friend) liked to sand it down real good, primer it, sand out all the high spots and then primer again and sand with a really fine grit give it a good cleaning and paint. is that overkill?
Painting Techniques
- Thread starter mcannon85
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
sounds like the right way to do it..... 
I'm strictly rattle-can at this point and in NO way consider myself an expert in painting, but I seem to get good results and since you asked :roll:
I store my paint and the frames in my garage, which doubles as my paint booth. That way I'm not battling temp differences between the two. I also make sure to shake the snot of the can before I start and take breaks to shake the can during the process. Also, to avoid runs, drips, puddling (clear coat like to do that for me), don't get too close. Start your paint stroke before the object and finish after, essentially 'let the frame get in the way' of the paint (hope that makes sense). If you can't reach an area, let it dry, reposition the frame and come back to it. As far as the actual prep/painting process, I don't do anything fancy, here's the steps I take:
1. Strip the frame to the bare metal using Aircraft Stripper/wire wheel on a drill/various grits of emory paper (usually start with an 80, then a 100)
2. Wipe the frame down with alcohol wipes to remove any dust/hand oil (put on latex gloves) and wipe with the inside side of an old sweatshirt (watch for loose strings)
3. Prime
4. Use 000000 steel wool over the entire frame. This gives some 'tooth' for the next coat. Since it went to bare metal I reduce the number of high spots.
5. Repeat step 2
6. Prime again.
7. Repeat step 4
8. Repeat step 2
9. First coat of color
10. Repeat step 4
11. Repeat step 2
12. Second coat of color
13. Repeat step 4
14. Repeat step 2
15. First coat of clear (satin or flat, depending on how much 'sheen' I want on the finish)
16. Repeat step 4
17. Repeat step 2
18. Second coat of clear
19. Repeat step 4
20. Repeat step 2, this time buff to the finish I want
This method takes me about 4-5 days from start to finish. It may seem like a lot of work, but you develop a rythm after a while and the results have been pretty good for me.
The key is PATIENCE. Take your time on each step, resist the urge and let it dry THOROUGHLY before going to the next step.
Hope this is of use to you.
Cheers!
Dr. T
I store my paint and the frames in my garage, which doubles as my paint booth. That way I'm not battling temp differences between the two. I also make sure to shake the snot of the can before I start and take breaks to shake the can during the process. Also, to avoid runs, drips, puddling (clear coat like to do that for me), don't get too close. Start your paint stroke before the object and finish after, essentially 'let the frame get in the way' of the paint (hope that makes sense). If you can't reach an area, let it dry, reposition the frame and come back to it. As far as the actual prep/painting process, I don't do anything fancy, here's the steps I take:
1. Strip the frame to the bare metal using Aircraft Stripper/wire wheel on a drill/various grits of emory paper (usually start with an 80, then a 100)
2. Wipe the frame down with alcohol wipes to remove any dust/hand oil (put on latex gloves) and wipe with the inside side of an old sweatshirt (watch for loose strings)
3. Prime
4. Use 000000 steel wool over the entire frame. This gives some 'tooth' for the next coat. Since it went to bare metal I reduce the number of high spots.
5. Repeat step 2
6. Prime again.
7. Repeat step 4
8. Repeat step 2
9. First coat of color
10. Repeat step 4
11. Repeat step 2
12. Second coat of color
13. Repeat step 4
14. Repeat step 2
15. First coat of clear (satin or flat, depending on how much 'sheen' I want on the finish)
16. Repeat step 4
17. Repeat step 2
18. Second coat of clear
19. Repeat step 4
20. Repeat step 2, this time buff to the finish I want
This method takes me about 4-5 days from start to finish. It may seem like a lot of work, but you develop a rythm after a while and the results have been pretty good for me.
The key is PATIENCE. Take your time on each step, resist the urge and let it dry THOROUGHLY before going to the next step.
Hope this is of use to you.
Cheers!
Dr. T
mcannon85 said:
while I'm sure the Doc's paint looks fabulous, the preferred method is to get all the prep/primer work done and sanded to 280 or better,tack it off, and then keep spraying coats every 5-15 minutes or so (depending on the temperature , till you've got it all on. you can always stop before the clear and fix boo-boos, but if the color went on the way it was supposed to the clear goes right on top as soon as the color isn't tacky.
as for brands.. Dupli-Color is the best off the shelf brand IMO.. but the color selection aint great, second for me is good old rust-oleum, I have used it on my boat trailers for decades... its tough... although it takes forever (like months ) to fully dry , but so does most rattle paint :roll:
scrumblero,
I'll have to give that method of color application a try, it sounds like it will save me DAYS! :mrgreen:
I agree, I like Dupi-color for color matching a bike to someone's car/truck or if the color desired is one made by an auto manufacturer. I usually spray Krylon, they've changed the nozzles lately and it seems to go on smoother and it drys pretty quickly (at least in GA). The colors available seem to be expanding too.
I'll have to give that method of color application a try, it sounds like it will save me DAYS! :mrgreen:
I agree, I like Dupi-color for color matching a bike to someone's car/truck or if the color desired is one made by an auto manufacturer. I usually spray Krylon, they've changed the nozzles lately and it seems to go on smoother and it drys pretty quickly (at least in GA). The colors available seem to be expanding too.
It's definitely the fast way to do it. just make sure the clear is the same stuff as the color and use lots of light coats... and wear a good respirator!! :shock:
I don't know if this is one of those things that's become such a standard that it goes without saying these days but I started using a self-etching primer (rattle can) as my first coat. This came as a recommendation by guys on a car forum for painting small parts. This really seems to have helped resist any deep chips.
I do the same thing.Tailwinds said:
-Stripe to bare metal/sand with 100 grit to give a tooth
-Bondo work
-etching primer
-high build primer/wet sand 600
-glazing/spotting putty
-high build primer/wet sand 1200 to 1500
-color/2-3 coats (Can wet sand this if you want a really hot rod finish.)
-glossy clear coat/2 coats
-matte clear coat/ light coat to knock off shine
Tailwinds said:
its to fill in sand scratches and bondo bubbles,
Okay, I'm not hearing about anyone here getting anything sandblasted, so I'll keep that part a secret. (Most powdercoat shops will do it for pretty cheap.) Then go to the auto paint store and buy their two part epoxy primer. It comes in a rattle can and has a button on the bottom that you push to deliver the second part. Wipe any and all dust off with some alcohol. Anyway, shake the heck out of it to mix it and start with your frame, (or any item,) UPSIDE DOWN. Always do the bottom first, let it dry enough to turn over, do the top, (or the side that is going to show.) I usually hang a bike frame from wire in the garage in a makeshift paint booth. Let the primer really dry, sand a bit where needed. Most auto paint stores will eye color match any color, and you can get spray cans made of custom colors. I have had very good results with this process. You can top coat with clear gloss or satin, but vintage bikes were not really clear coated per se. Some afficionados think that the beautifully restored bikes you sometimes see here and on the CABE are "over-restored." It's your bike, do what you want with it. If you take your time and show some creative talent, you really can get professional results. I have an old Hawthorne with cool paint on the frame and fenders. The rest of the paint is rusty and gone. I'll take the bike apart carefully, clean and save the frame and fenders. (I may even do a little clear coat here too to enliven the colors.) I take a fender to the auto paint store, and he will color match it exactly. I will paint my rims, rack and chainguard to match. Pinstripe the rims, and wherever else the bike originally had pinstripes, and Voila!! I saved what I could, and renewed what needed renewing. Makes sense to me. When I get this project completely underway, I may do a biography of the process. A before and after. Stay tuned.
ok newbie builder here, i get everything you guys are talking about, but gotta ask this. So you guys are using just spray paint cans like kids use for tagging? because i was thinking about buying like the real auto painting gun and all that jazz....... sorry for being new lol
Do you guys think that even with good prep, application, wet sanding and buffing a spray paint job will always look like a spray paint job? It always looks "plastic/cheap/over restored" to me in the end. I guess it's acrylic enamel.
I've used alkyd "house/porch paint" with a brush. It looks a little more classic to me for some reason plus you can customize the color really easy. It's alot of work but if you just do enough sanding and lay the paint smooth it will come out nice. I got some catalyst to add to it when you paint, a 1 to 8 ratio. It's supposed to make it harder and dry faster and glossier. Pretty durable after about a month, plus it's easier to touch it up with a brush than a can. Buff and wax it and it looks shiny but not like they say "over restored".
I've used alkyd "house/porch paint" with a brush. It looks a little more classic to me for some reason plus you can customize the color really easy. It's alot of work but if you just do enough sanding and lay the paint smooth it will come out nice. I got some catalyst to add to it when you paint, a 1 to 8 ratio. It's supposed to make it harder and dry faster and glossier. Pretty durable after about a month, plus it's easier to touch it up with a brush than a can. Buff and wax it and it looks shiny but not like they say "over restored".
if you want the classic lacquer look from enamel. wait till its fully dry then lightly wet sand it with 800 and wax it...
I personally would NEVER use house/latex acrylic paint on a bicycle. It is not hard enough in my never-to-be-humble opinion. I have gotten REALLY good results though from rattle can jobs on bicycles and even motorcycle (frames.) If you say "rattle can," it diminishes what can be done with these little modern marvels of invention! It does take some practice though, and it can be frustrating if you are not PATIENT. The clear coat is what you can decide to leave out if you don't want the "over-restored" look. I do it all the time and I'm pretty picky. Good luck.
Hey guys... I am new to the site and was reading this thread. No one has mentioned Alsa paints... IMO they are the best spray cans you can get. They come in custom colors and finishes... and the results are superb. I have been painting frames, wheels and such with Alsa for the last few years and absolutely love the product. They are spendy however ($40 per can but last longer), and when I do not want to spend so much I use Dupli-Color, or their parent company Krylon.
BTW the nice thing about Alsa is that they have a true two part clear... fantastic stuff...
Someday I will post some of my bikes... I only have 20 :lol:
http://www.alsacorp.com
BTW the nice thing about Alsa is that they have a true two part clear... fantastic stuff...
Someday I will post some of my bikes... I only have 20 :lol:
http://www.alsacorp.com
Best to follow the paint manufactures instructions on time between coats. If in doubt longer is usually better on average. Also a good habit to get into to wipe down with a degereaser before painting with color or clearcoat.
