Pedals
- Thread starter RonB
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Yes, but probably not worth the effort, when compared with shiny replacements.
Perhaps the various tabs could be un-bent and later re-bent; but those were not especially quality pedals in their own time.
For painting alone, (no bearing work), the tabs for the reflectors could be worked; unless one was thinking of two-tone pedals.
I use Rust-Oleum “antique pewter” on my own painted pedals. Oh, I have also used brown — just for that never rusty look.
Perhaps the various tabs could be un-bent and later re-bent; but those were not especially quality pedals in their own time.
For painting alone, (no bearing work), the tabs for the reflectors could be worked; unless one was thinking of two-tone pedals.
I use Rust-Oleum “antique pewter” on my own painted pedals. Oh, I have also used brown — just for that never rusty look.
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I like to snap up vintage BMX or Mtn. bike pedals at swaps. (anyone remember them?)
Usually can find good solid alloy platforms like these Welgo brand for $5. Inspect em' Threads good, bearings spin good and if they are "tight" from setting, I put them on end in a coffee can and let some light oil gravity feed into dry bearings. (3 in 1 electric motor oil is 10w and works great.).
Phil is 100% right those pedals were cheap when new and have not gotten better with age. One of the first upgrades I make to a bike I intend to keep and ride is better pedals with nice bearings. The best cheapo pairs go on flip bikes, the rest are trash.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Great resto tip Horsefarmer. I prefer MTB pedals, wish they'd fit my cruiser crank. Pretty much anything I build has to be ready for the occasional off path ventures.
Ron:
Phil is right, disassembly is not worth the effort and might not work. If you want to spiff up those pedals a bit, hit them with a wire brush, wipe down with denatured alcohol (or some other solvent), and brush on some Testors Flat Steel #1180. In the examples below, I only touched up the most visible and rustiest parts, which were the outside plates.
Have fun!
Phil is right, disassembly is not worth the effort and might not work. If you want to spiff up those pedals a bit, hit them with a wire brush, wipe down with denatured alcohol (or some other solvent), and brush on some Testors Flat Steel #1180. In the examples below, I only touched up the most visible and rustiest parts, which were the outside plates.
Have fun!
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hit 'em real good with penetrating oil -PBblaster, liquid wrench, wd40 ish stuff- it does great at disolving rust-y crud. Then use a plastic scraper ( i like plastic 'razor' blades) and a scotch brite pad. Lather, rinse repeat.
be sure to re-lube similar to above, because the penetrant also disolves grease
be sure to re-lube similar to above, because the penetrant also disolves grease
it's 12 dollars for wood bleach or a comparable organic acid, I wouldn't bother with that. Phosphoric acid is about the same. Now you could have bought new pedals. Just grab regular strength oven cleaner from the dollar store. I would just grab some small chinese brushes or use my pipe cleaner stuff. I have rebuilt old torrington pedals, the kind that are like $80 if you get lucky. it is just chasing tiny bearings I don't look forward too. I mean i have taken apart plenty of pedals it is just some of them have these little pressed garbage rivets so putting them back together is a whole nother story. So yeah they come apart but getting the reflectors back on those i don't know if you really want to do that
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