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Dunlop/Woods valves were common from Europe to Asia, all my tubed bikes in Britain up until the 1970s used them, the Schraeder being relatively rare at that time on a bicycle - but now they are very common while the Dunlop/Woods valves are relatively rare. Here in Poland most bikes used the Dunlop/Woods valve up until about the year 2000, and I can still buy tubes with them, but most bikes use Schraeder valves.
Of course, the Presta valve has always been around, but I have never had much to do with them either in Britain or Poland.
Since motorcycles, cars and trucks have long used the Schraeder valve, it means that pumping your tire up at a gas station does not require having a brass Dunlop-to-Schraeder converter with you.
I thought they used the Hans/Franz valve in Germany and Austria

Pump You Up Saturday Night Live GIF
Awesome video. That trail and all the connectors to it sound like great riding.

One way to add some braking power would be to add a washer between the caliper and the pad, on the inside of the caliper arm. That would help take up the gap between pad and rim, giving you more pull after the pad hits the rim. If you used a 'wavy washer' you could maybe get a little toe-in on the front of the pad which will help the pads grip better (and eliminate brake squeal if there is some). I have also toed-in the arms of the caliper using a larger sized adjustable (Cresent) wrench so you have a lot of surface area on the arm as you slightly bend it in towards the front. Its not much, just enough so the pads aren't parallel to the rim, the front of the pad hitting first, then pulling the pad to the rim.

twojs brakes.jpg

I have also found the salmon colored pads to work better than the standard black ones. Kool Stop makes them as well as a couple of other vendors. The durometer is softer than black rubber, and grips a little better. This model of Kool Stop works well with your style of brakes, looks the part, and has the adustable concave and convex cone washers to get toe-in without messing with the caliper.

kool stop pads.jpg

The bike looks like an all day rider, one you could have a lot of fun on for sure! Really like all your upgrades and fixes you've done here.
I have to protest for my fellow Fish for the countless Salmon that were slaughtered to make those brake pads.

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I have to protest for my fellow Fish for the countless Salmon that were slaughtered to make those brake pads.

View attachment 271774
Quit your carping!
Best canti pads I ever used were Shimano M900 XTR.

I have never tried the fish colored brakes to compare, but my Shimanos had more grip in the wet than anything else I've experienced
Nice work on the vid.

I would expect a Raleigh to be Schraader in Australia - and we used to get all our stuff direct ex-UK. Empire dontchaknow.

In fact, I've never even heard of a Dunlop valve till now.
Classic pedals. Those will work nicely
The frame pump is still a mystery to me. I no longer think it has anything to do with Dunlop valves.

The top hose is from the new pump. Notice the part in the center that pushes open the pin in a Schrader valve.

The other two from old pumps do not have the part in the center. Therefore the Schrader valve never opens and I cannot get them to pump air.

At this point I am just curious. There must be an explanation.

Come to think about it, I do not remember all pumps having a pin to depress the valve, you just had to pump hard enough to open the valve by air pressure, which is really not much different to Dunlop valves.
I took the original headlamp and stuffed the wires that went to the dynohub inside the lamp. Then I used electrical tape to connect to a 9 volt battery. Works great!

I am finished! Need to take some final photos. There a a few minor details I haven’t highlighted yet.

Funny thing is, it doesn’t look that much different than when I got it. But it rides perfect now. What a blast.

Thanks for following along!
Neat trick on the light minus dynohub
Bike looks great!