Rat .... Klunk WAS Suck Level 5

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Flying Merlino Brother

A Heart That Flies on a Bicycle Budget
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Well my fellow Ratters, I suppose the biggest lesson to date with this 2024 initiative is the course entitled "Schwinn Rim History - The journey from the drafting table to hell". The take away, there are two tires available for 26" S5 and S6 rims. So, while I was ok with this build not turning into a klunker, I am in full embrace of the S5 tubular rims. I do have a back up plan and a few FB ads saved for other rim options. The blood blister on my thumb from the uneducated and unititated attempt of the wrong size tire fitting just might even spend 100.00 on cheapo internet rims.

Working on trueing these S5's and replacing spokes is a good primer for replacing the hub on the step thru Spaceliner which is on pause for possible entry in the next build off. These rims will be used on this build or one on the wall I am calling Top Hat and way down the line as I need some brazing or welding skills for that one. (Basically a 20" frame with 26" rims- I am hopeful Function will follow Form on that one.

My go to LBS did not have a die for the fork so I ordered one, I'll be cutting the forks after extending the threads.

My favorite part so far is the color and finish shown on the chain guard. This will be the same on the forks and handle bars.

Other than the tires, trying to take apart the freewheel (I got it off the wheel just fine with a 21 spline FR-4) proved futile. So, soaked in penetrating oil drained and blown out the best I could then filled with Finish Line Wet Synthetic over and over will have to suffice for internal lube there.

Cranks removed cleaned and polished, bearings and grease.

Oh! Got to go a racoon just walked in the garage and it's moaning something firece!
 

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This guy won the staring contest, looks like a case of mange, poor guy.

Can posts be edited, I would love to correct a couple spelling errors. (Nevermind, found it)!
 

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Racoon walked away, the groaning and stare down freaked me out. Glad Keeper Red Dog was in the house!

From the How To files, images of the pre threading and cutting of the Trk 700 Hybrid Fork and the, what I am calling infamous, tubular rims.

Growing up 1980s BMX, (1982 MX III) I thought tubular was an innuendo for something cool. Now it means put the rims in a large tub of ice and the tires on a hot driveway and maybe you'll get the tires on the rims. So, while Tubular is being redefined, swapping tires, like painting, is based on atmospheric conditions, temperature and the will of the earth.
 

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Spokes arrived. Not a true rebuild but still a learning curve, working my way up to the hub swap for the Step Thru build off. A lot of broken and bent spokes on the Suck Factor 5 Rims? So I'll tackle front and back.

Killing time and getting rid of a mix of stains for the garage stairs along with leftover textured spray paint worked out well.

The Sears mid box was a 20.00 FB find and absolutely perfect for the spot it's in

What rims did the founding fathers of mountain biking use? I know the Schwinn diamond frame was a popular choice and likely led to improved frames specifically for downhill but I can't imagine theses rims on anything other than a rail trail or boardwalk.

I soaked the chain in marvel mystery oil, cleaned it with a brass brush, is this something that should simply be a new chain replacement?

PS: Still working on cleaning up and resizing the holes on the chaingard.
 

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What a differance the right tires made! Went on will little to no extra effort given the period and what was likely normal when these S5's were new. So plan A.1 will work for a worst case scenario but I am forging ahead with plan B which would be based on new rims and new multi surface Michelin's due in next week.

The die for the handle bars arrived as did the right size handle so that will be a Saturday thing I think.

Being forewarned by other Ratter's Plan A.1 will have at least a rear brake. Plan B will have front and back from a The Trek 700 Parts box (a 15 dollar steel with 700c rims for stock). There will need to be some tinkering there but should work with the rims coming. Worst case, absolute worst case, plan C it to install the Green Coligiate forks and put this one to bed as a very mild build However, this Ratcoon is for the Columbia Trail and needs betterlooking and multi surface tires. That's not to say this thing isn't a looker to some extent, it is what it is and I don't mind the subtlety if it has to be. Just the fork alone and it's angle (from the 700) adds to the aesthetic if only on the kickstand lean. Photos coming in an edit, I don't want to lose all this text.
 
Up to Plan C where the aesthetic changes are minimal, the function remains the same. Repacking bearings, and cleaning skills up a notch. Relacing front and rear wheels and truing them worked out with some success, new cables will be next. Should the polished chain guard go back on the rear Wheel? Hmmmmm.

(I have read these older rims are not particularly fussy about spoke tension, anyone else? Additionally, these are 50 years old, so the few dents dings and wobble sync well with my knees).
 

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The answer is here. Alan Bonds website documents the builds of the "founding fathers". He lived with Gary and Charlie, he knows how it went down
http://clunkers.net/index.html

So now I have rims and tires I need a frame for, suggestions on what to look for for a future build that could fill a hybrid clunker genre?


1722599183414.png
 
26*2 is definitely the size that's easiest to fit, easiest to get rubber for. I think that a Worksman INB would make a perfect klunker. I'd build one with a Sturmey Archer geared hub instead of a derailleur though.
64651-INBBlue1.jpg
https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/show-us-your-worksman-bicycle.33482/

That's a big rabbit hole, you might find inspiration there
 
Up to Plan C where the aesthetic changes are minimal, the function remains the same. Repacking bearings, and cleaning skills up a notch. Relacing front and rear wheels and truing them worked out with some success, new cables will be next. Should the polished chain guard go back on the rear Wheel? Hmmmmm.

(I have read these older rims are not particularly fussy about spoke tension, anyone else? Additionally, these are 50 years old, so the few dents dings and wobble sync well with my knees).
Pro tip

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/how-to-post-pictures-for-dummies.115812/

When posting pictures make sure you select full image, so that people do not have to click the thumbnail to enlarge them

🤘
 
Mo' bettta.... and I do have a plan for the ceiling using 32" x 32" x 1/4" Open Wire Gauze tiles stapled in place but that's next years spring project.

View attachment 276490

That's a great looking Klunk you built! The only thing I would change would probably be the brake levers. Those drop bar levers look like they will hit the bars. Alan Bond's website is a great resource for building klunkers. He has build many. Our local expert on Schwinn Varsity klunkers is @Tallbikeman who has been riding them since the Repack days and still does.

This Schwinn DX you showed here would make for one of the quintessential klunker frames. But that bike is too nice to take apart in my opinion. But there's tons of great old frames out there to work with. In the early days they had a preference for prewar Schwinn frames for strength and higher bottom bracket. Most of what I have seen have been DX and C model frames. But you can build a cool klunk out of just about any old cruiser frame, and they used them all back in the '70s from what I've seen. That's the cool thing about building a klunker, there really aren't any rules. Just go have fun!

And on tire sizes for Schwinn, there is also an S7, so watch out for those rims. The ones you want to try to stick to are the S2 which take the standard 559 26" tire. In the early 70s they ran chrome S2s on their klunkers but as soon as 26" alloy BMX rims were available they switched to those for better rim brake performance and lighter weight.
 
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That hanging Schwinn will stay as is for sure. I believe there are cracks in the metal anyway. Next time it's on the ground I'll check it with a magnet and some dust. Still, I would leave it as is, it's a looker and I enjoy it for what it is. I'll send a pick of the fender in the future, it has got great nose art!

For the brakes, I did put them in a vice last night and flattened them out a bit, I do have replacements if this doesn't work, I left the second section in tact for turbo levers when going uphill!

Edward
 
Up to Plan C where the aesthetic changes are minimal, the function remains the same. Repacking bearings, and cleaning skills up a notch. Relacing front and rear wheels and truing them worked out with some success, new cables will be next. Should the polished chain guard go back on the rear Wheel? Hmmmmm.

(I have read these older rims are not particularly fussy about spoke tension, anyone else? Additionally, these are 50 years old, so the few dents dings and wobble sync well with my knees).

I don't know if it is my old eyesight but it looks like a few of the pins in your chain are not pushed in completely which could lead to chain separation out on the trail. I carry a small/basic chain tool when I go deep into the woods but that's just me.......
 
At least on is not pushed in for sure. However I will look at them all. Cheers! There's still a week of work before I hit any pavement or trail on this one. Traveling for work it may be mid August before this one is ridden more than around the block.

My goodness, how can you see that at all! Again, thank you, I would have never looked at that. That may have to be the next Macro shot Monday submission!
 
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For the brakes, I did put them in a vice last night and flattened them out a bit, I do have replacements if this doesn't work, I left the second section in tact for turbo levers when going uphill!

Edward
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